repairing an old knife

VampyreWolf

VampyreWolf

Joined
Feb 12, 2001
Messages
3,415
I have my dad's old slipjoint from the early 70s... gave it to me last year when I was hunting for a slipjoint to use.

Spent 2-3 months getting it smooth enough to not need pliers to open it(was badly neglected over the last 15-20yrs). Put it away in my storage till I had time to spend again.

Pulled it out last week, looked at the edges... it was done on a grinder when he had it. So far I've spent an hour on the spey blade alone with ceramics, another hour should give me a straight flat edge.

What's the quickest way to get a good edge on this knife? I haven't got my belt sander hooked up yet but it's looking like I might need to toss a 400grit SIC belt on it and go at it.
 
I'd prefer to stay on the benchstones, but it's looking like it'll take me a month at this rate
 
Unless you have experience with machine sharpening I would stick with the stone. Alot of material could be removed to fast before you realize it. The best stones made, IMO are Norton. Another option would be take it to a place that sharpens knives professionally. Good luck ;)
Scott
 
I would stick to the stones/sharpeners as well. I'm sure any of the ones available will do a fine job like sharpmaker, edgepro, lansky, etc. Personally, for this type of work I prefer the Lansky, because you can control the angle precisely, and effectively cut the bevel back in to the blade.

Eventually, with a lot of elbow grease, you will get the profile back.

Good luck.
 
I find sandpaper on a hard surface good for reprofiling jobs, work spine first starting with something like 60, 80 or 100 grit, depending on how much work is needed, after the bevel is formed, smooth it with finer grits, up to like 200, 400, as high as you want, then use hones, you may want to protect the blade above the edges with some tape to prevent scratches.

An inexpensive coarse stone can also be used to start, I got mine cheap at a supermarket.

Luis
 
3yrs of machining has given me a decent base for powered sharpening...

15yrs of freehand had given me a great deal of patience.

have 200, 300, 500, and 800 grit AO stones, spyderco 303mf and 204mf, 80 to 1500grit sandpaper, and a strop with veritas green.

have 80-400 grit SiC belts for the belt sander, 200 and 400 grit stones on the bench grinder...


too many toys to play with.

Might just go with sandpaper on a hunk of wood with a CF or G-10 slab for stability. It's worked to repair tips on spydies before.

only took 1 knife in for someone else to do it, when I pushed a spydie ladybug to see what 8A could take.
 
I would stay away from the belt as it can be overkill. Use a benchstone, or try using the 400 grit flat on a bench and use it as a strop.
 
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