Repairing convex edge in the field (Kukri, and straight bladed knives)

S

swinchen

Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
5
Hi everyone,

I was wondering what I should pack to repair a damaged convex edge on a curved blade like a kukri in the field? Is it possible to get a convex edge with a narrow diamond stone such a DMT Diafold? How about a diamond rod? Most of the videos I have seen use sandpaper and a mouse pad or phonebook. I could pack these if they are the only option but I would rather have something longer lasting like a diamond stone. I am not very experienced with knife sharpening (I use a chef's choice electric sharpener with an F Dick steel on my kitchen knives) but I plan on practicing; I just want to make sure I purchase the appropriate tools. I assume that if you can repair a convex edge on a curved blade, the same tool/materials could also work on a straight blade?


Any pointers, resources or reading material you could share or guide me too would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much for your time.

Sam
 
Generally speaking, I think a Dia-Fold in coarse/fine or something similar would be a best 'all-around' hone for maintaining or re-establishing quick working edges in the field. If your recurve isn't too narrow or tightly radiused, the flat Dia-Fold will likely be OK for that too. The inside curvature of the recurve will also be less of an issue, if the edge angle there isn't too thick or obtuse. The hone will tend to lay closer to the blade at a thin edge angle, and that lessens the disparity between the curvature and the flat hone. Conversely, if the edge angle is very thick/obtuse, the spine of the blade will have to be raised further from the hone, which makes the curvature more extreme against the flat hone. In any case, you'll need to go feather-light with pressure, because the edges/corners of the hone will be the only points of contact with the blade's edge. They'll exert great pressure in a very small section of the edge, so it's real easy to roll or chip the edge this way.

As a back-up option for the recurve, you could always use a round diamond rod. OR, just keep some wet/dry sandpaper handy, to be wrapped around a cylindrical object (piece of pipe, jar, can, etc.). A firm piece of leather wrapped around the cylinder, under the sandpaper, will also give some 'cushion' to allow the paper to form/curve a little bit in relation to the blade's edge. Use light pressure to minimize the chance of rounding over the edge this way. The firm-but-forgiving leather backing will also be a more natural way to maintain the convex edge. You don't have to do touch-ups as convex only, as a simple V-microbevel will be just fine, even on a convexed blade. Most makers of convexed knives put V-microbevels on anyway (consider Fallkniven's convexed blades and their hone of choice, the flat DC3/4 diamond/ceramic).

For the sake of honing practice, I think the sandpaper is the way to go. It's very inexpensive, and can be wrapped around, glued, attached or otherwise formed to whatever backing will work best for you. In fact, making a sandpaper 'hone' to the same dimensions as a Dia-Fold (4-1/4" length by 7/8" width, and 1/4" thick; excluding the handles) might be a great way to test the 'fit' against the recurve of your kukri. Might save you the expense of buying a Dia-Fold, if it looks like it's not ideal for you.
 
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Thank you for the wonderful response. That is very helpful. I also ordered a Parang so having a couple of Dia-Folds, DC4 or even a diamond rod wouldn't be a bad idea.

I think I will also grab some sandpaper and test it out of my cheapo kitchen knife. I would also like to get a feel for how long it lasts and see if it deserves a spot in my survival pack.

Thank you again for response, it makes a lot of sense.

Sam
 
The silicon carbide abrasive in the sandpaper will break down and get 'finer' with some use. You'll notice it more at the coarse & medium grits. And at the finer grits (1000+), you'll see some polishing advantages in 'used' sandpaper. The main reason I like using sandpaper is it's versatility, in being able to adapt it to particular needs. A smooth, flat hardwood block, with some sandpaper glued to it, or wrapped around it, is a great 'training aid' for practicing an edge-leading stroke, as if on a hard stone. The risk of cutting or tearing the paper forces one to keep a very close eye on maintaining a proper angle, and not using too much pressure. That's perfect practice for all sharpening, in general.

Good luck. :)
 
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