Replace the Chive

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
27
I have had 2 Kershaw Chives' and both have gummed up and stopped flipping open. I sent one back but the assist bar broke on it and that wasn't covered. I work in an extreemly dusty enviroment and notice I have to relube often so that might be part of the cause. I am looking to replace the Chive with something about the same size and would love some ideas. I need something that can be opened one handed and I perfer almost anything to lockbacks. I also liked the blade size of the chive. Thanx.
 
I have a Chive that started to get sluggish and then stopped flipping open recently. Took it apart, and found the spring (torsion bar :rolleyes:) had broken. So I called Kershaw, told them I needed a replacement for a model 1600, and two days later, I had two spare springs in the mail. Installed without a hitch.

I used the Chive about a week before calling, it worked fine as a one hand opening folder.

In an extremely dusty environment, more lube may just attract abrasive grit where you least want it. Generally, I find knives need very little, if any, lubrication.
 
I think I am just looking at maybe just ready to look for something else.
1.one handed opener
2.smaller blade
3.not just an EDC but something that will be used everyday
4.not a lockback
 
Take a look at the Spyderco Cricket and Spin, stainless steel framelocks. Both incredibly sharp and the simple mechanisms won't gum up.
 
I'd take issue with Esav's words. Any knife pivot can gum up. Even simple ones. In fact, you'll the Chive is surprisingly simple upon dissection.

The original post is ambiguous, however. Sluggishness, followed by spring failure is the exact course my Chive took. No amount of lubrication will compensate for a failed spring, and may make things worse, given a dusty environment. And those same factors, dust+lubrication, could easily form the same slurry in any knife pivot and cause problems with excessive wear and possibly sluggishness.

However, don't let me get in the way of buying a new knife, if that's what you're really trying to justify. ;)
 
Take a look at the Spyderco Cricket and Spin, stainless steel framelocks. Both incredibly sharp and the simple mechanisms won't gum up.

:thumbup: You won't have to worry about anything breaking or going amiss with those, and they are both easy to clean for when they get gummy. You'll also notice superior edge retention from the VG10 steel as well as better edge geometry. Great suggestions.
 
Kershaw wouldn't send you a torsion bar? I find that hard to believe. They've sent me ones for the Chive, Leek, MiniTask, etc. When I asked one time recently they sent me a bag full.
 
Essentially though the fact that you work in a very dusty environment will wreak havoc on ANY folder you have. The Chive is a great knife, and as was said above, the mechanism is about as simple and easy to clean that you're going to find. My suggestion would be to a. Buy a bag of a couple torsion bars, try not to exessively flip it over and over in quick succession, and clean it when you start hearing a crackling dust inside the mechanism (every couple weeks). b. Buy a cheap ass folder you don't care about or, c. Buy a fixed blade.
I really must say that even if you spent $1000 on a sweet custom automatic/assisted opening knife you'd see the EXACT same problems, and probably have more of an issue trying to get new torsion bars, etc...

Oh yeah! If you can't take your Chive apart, check out Benchmade's Blue Box. It's a bit set of Torx that'll let you rip that knife apart and clean it up.

:EDIT: After re-reading your post, I noticed something. Your mention of lubricating the knife made me think you had taken it apart, but it's a distinct possibility you just dropped lube in the joint. If so, that it the exact problem. The opening mechanism for the Chive is a small 'pocket' in one of the handles which houses the torsion bar. When you open/close the knife it flexes and dust can get in the edge of the pocket. When this happens it slows the motion of the torsion bar drastically, and the only way to fix it is to rip the knife apart, remove the torsion bar, clean it all out completely and reapply lubrication and the bar.

Good luck!
 
Try a CRKT Koji Hara Ichi. I have had one since they came out and have no problems abusing it. Now CRKT has a new Kommer Full Trottle A/O that I here is very nice. Maybe the Buck Sirus w/ATS-34. Maybe a Spyderco Navigator, VG-10 easy opening thumb hole solid SS construction. Give these a look, I think you will be pleased! L8R... ~baba~
 
I do disassemble it clean it and lube it, thats how I knew the first bar was broken. I don't know whats up with the new one, it just opens half way when you push the bump. I have taken it apart to clean and lube it. I use minimal lube in it but there is nothing I can do to keep it from getting gunked up. I am thinking of maybe just switching to using graphite powder. For the time being I am using a Benchmade fixed blade 210tk Activator with CF handle.

I found a number for Kershaw and will call them tomorrow, who knows, sounds like they'll have no problem sending me some new bars. I don't know why they told me it wasn't covered the first time, but I still have both knives.

Thanks for all your suggestions
 
For the time being, it sounds like you're using the right knife for a tough environment!
 
Considering the tough environment, I'd go for a Spyderco Dodo. Small, very strong and comfortable, with an S30V blade and G-10 handles. And it's NOT a lockback ;)
The Cricket is a good choice too.
 
Lots of people say that because they don't like the way Spyderco looks, or the way the hole looks, but trust me, give them a chance and a little love and they'll love you right back ;)
 
How about a small fixed blade? No pivot to gum up. The Fallkniven WM-1 is great, but if you want something very sheeple friendly and useful, go for the Bark River Mikro Canadian.
 
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