Replacing blades on 806/805 Benchmade

me2

Joined
Oct 11, 2003
Messages
5,097
Since they are no longer made, has anyone thought of replacing the blades when they wear out? Mine was a work knife before they became rare, and its probably not going to be sold, what with the scratches and hardness test marks in the blade, and scuffed G-10 near the pivot from sharpening. I was thinking that it would be really nice to replace the 440C with some sort of Damascus, when it finally wears out, or I have a 12 day weekend.
 
Yeah, I'm thinking along the same lines for my work 805.

Me, I'd rather go M2, M4, or some other such steel.

Love that handle, not too hip on the 440C steel.
 
Between reading Alvins posts on rec.knives and looking at the available steels, I'm leaning toward L6, 01, or S7 run at pretty high hardness, low to mid 60's for the first 2, 57-58 for the S7. The blade is between 57.5 and 58 now, so the S7 isnt much of a drop. The cheapest damascut I've found was on Admiral Steels site, although the Thunderforged twist on www.texasknife.com is also appealing. M2 would be nice, do you know where to get it in the annealed condition, and anyone to heat treat it?
 
I was just thinking of finding a maker or customiser (to be more accurate in this case) and let them arrange the details.

I, too, would like to have it up there in the mid 60s for hardness. Optimal, as it is sometimes referred to.

I was seriously considering requesting Chase Axinn(http://www.chaxknives.com/) to do the work. Seen his work on the forum and on the site. Looks good.
 
Me2,

For a blade seeing folding pocketknife uses, S7 and L6 would give you tons of unneeded toughness, but much less wear-resistance at the same or lower levels of hardness than you can get from 1095/W1, O1, 52100/L1, or M2. If money were no object, M2 or a similar high speed steel would be the way to go, but 1095 is up there, costs lots less to buy and is easier to heat-treat near home. O1 should (funny word, "should"....) offer wear resistance than 1095 at the cost of a few points of hardness, but still be a better overall value than M2 (unless you find some fully hardened M2 saw blades of similar thickness as your 805 TSEK and have a lot of patience, tapping fluid, and tungsten carbide drill bits in which case go M2 all the way).
 
Thats the trick. I've heat treated O1 before and had good results, some 1095 I just tried cracked when quenched, but it was the first try after all. I'll think about it some more. I can get M2 in the right thickness, but its not wide enough, and I cant process it already hardened, not to fit the lock mechanism anyway. Properly sized 01 and 1095 are cheap enough and easy to find. Damascus would be nice, but not at $54 per foot.
 
Oh, I mean you grind and, when possible, heat treat your own blades.

Someday I hope to be in the position to bring this hobby to that point. It would be satisfying, I believe. More so than being a consumer only, anyway.
 
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