My chuck has been slipping for awhile and finally have decided to replace it with a keyless type. Drill is a 15 speed china made that I stole on ebay. Has been just fine for me, but time to change the chuck to keyless. Old chuck is marked 16mm WUE JT3. I rapped it a couple times and it's out. I imagine the shaft has to be driven out as the new ones at Enco don't show a shaft? I was thinking of the one made by ROHM. A little less than Jacobs and more than the Enco brand. I really don't want to spend $200.00 for a chuck. What do you think?
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Replacing my drill chuck
- Thread starter oldwolf
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 20,403
You're right
When punching it out though, you will want to avoid hitting the tapers on the end,
or you will upset them (make them fatter) and make it harder to get off.
Try to get shims or wedges in behind and pull them apart from that direction.
Next time you want to get that arbour out of the spindle, wheel it down and look for 2 sets of cutouts that you can get to line up and slide a wedge in there.
It will get it out with no sideways whack - which contributes to the chuck and spindle being off centre.
The JT3 is the taper on the chuck end of that drill chuck arbour (arbor) shaft.
You need to find out the taper on the interior of the drill press spindle.
MT2 Morse Taper 2 is pretty common.
http://www.toolsandmods.com/morse-taper-dimensions.html
When you buy the new chuck you can get a new arbor to match both the chuck and drill press ends.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=1042
People here have had good things to say about ROHM
When punching it out though, you will want to avoid hitting the tapers on the end,
or you will upset them (make them fatter) and make it harder to get off.
Try to get shims or wedges in behind and pull them apart from that direction.
Next time you want to get that arbour out of the spindle, wheel it down and look for 2 sets of cutouts that you can get to line up and slide a wedge in there.
It will get it out with no sideways whack - which contributes to the chuck and spindle being off centre.
The JT3 is the taper on the chuck end of that drill chuck arbour (arbor) shaft.
You need to find out the taper on the interior of the drill press spindle.
MT2 Morse Taper 2 is pretty common.
http://www.toolsandmods.com/morse-taper-dimensions.html
When you buy the new chuck you can get a new arbor to match both the chuck and drill press ends.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=1042
People here have had good things to say about ROHM
Last edited:
Can't find JT3 on the Enco site. Could it be 3JT?
I see where I should have used a wedge Now. Should have posted first
Looked in the manual, but no mention of the taper or Mount info. Guess I'll have to tryn the common Morse taper. Mine looks like the one with the rectangular end.
I see where I should have used a wedge Now. Should have posted first
Looked in the manual, but no mention of the taper or Mount info. Guess I'll have to tryn the common Morse taper. Mine looks like the one with the rectangular end.
You're right
When punching it out though, you will want to avoid hitting the tapers on the end,
or you will upset them (make them fatter) and make it harder to get off.
Try to get shims or wedges in behind and pull them apart from that direction.
Next time you want to get that arbour out of the spindle, wheel it down and look for 2 sets of cutouts that you can get to line up and slide a wedge in there.
It will get it out with no sideways whack - which contributes to the chuck and spindle being off centre.
The JT3 is the taper on the chuck end of that drill chuck arbour (arbor) shaft.
You need to find out the taper on the interior of the drill press spindle.
MT2 Morse Taper 2 is pretty common.
http://www.toolsandmods.com/morse-taper-dimensions.html
When you buy the new chuck you can get a new arbor to match both the chuck and drill press ends.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=1042
People here have had good things to say about ROHM