Replacing Worn Water Stones on Edge Pro System -

Joined
Mar 29, 2002
Messages
4,591
I love my Edge Pro sharpening system. It cost a bunch up front but for my WSK's I make it is the cat's wiskers. The Edge Pro is a great sharpening system for us makers that do not belt sharpen and saves me so much time and agony. Water stones wear fast by comparison but cut like crazy. Virgin, never before sharpened edges take a lot of stone strokes and therefore wear the stone pretty quick (little pun maybe ;) ). Anyhow, I go through some water stones. Through necessity I think I have found a fast and convenient way to replace worn stones used on the Edge Pro. The Stones used by the Edge Pro are bonded to an aluminum bar. You gotta have that bar for the machine to hold the stone properly. I used to do as the directions say: turn on end, place in vise and chisel off. That doesn't work very well for me and especially if the stone is worn to being very thin. The answer is easy. My way: lay flat on granite comparison block, wack the crap out of the stone surface with a heavy rubber mallot. Take a sharp edge and scrap the aluminum bar face clean. Super glue the new stone in place. Repeat as needed.

Hating to wear glasses of any kind I seldom do but when performing the above I do put the saftey glasses on. When that stone gets whoped it can go off like a little grenade. The last time I replaced one I covered the stone surface with wax paper before smacking it which cut down on the flying projectiles and cleanup.

rlinger
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rlinger, are you using Edge Pro's replacement stones,or have you found another source? I have some that are getting worn and need to have a recovery plan. Thanks for the removal tips!
Thanks,
 
That is one nice station Mr. Finnigan! I really like the Edge Pro with the exception of no matter how careful I am, I get scratches on my highly polished blades. I can minimize it by taping the blade up real good. Does your setup work on a finished knife with handles and guards?
Thanks,
 
I love that station! Not sure I could afford to buy one, but the very best solution that I have seen. I assume the verticle dowels are to support longer blades. The clamp system is great. For me it would probably be cheaper to buy a Coote, or, better yet a KMG, now to convince the wife the baby doesn't need diapers...... Steven
 
Thanks, copy it if you want I do not know of anyone building them. I don't have any immediate plans to produce them just yet.

Not only does it use the Edge Pro but I have it modified to use the Lansky stones also. It is mainly for hand filing knives but I made a few mods. so that it cna be used for many different sharpening applications.

Just keep hitting "next" to see the whole setup.
http://groups.msn.com/Brentscustomknives/filingsharpeningstation.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=134

Where are you in WA?
 
So far I am buying my water stones from Edge Pro; 7 bucks per. You can also buy them with the aluminum backing, ready to use, for more bucks. Just keep the bar straight when replacing stones and you're okay. I can do an original shaving sharp edge on about 5 WSK's with 2 stones. Just resharpening is nothing but an original edge requires a lot of steel removal.

rlinger
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How about putting them on with epoxy then when need to replace, bake at 275 for ten minutes...epoxy crumbles.
 
Epoxy was the first bonding I tried. Did not work for me and it has never worked reliably for me bonding knife scales to tang either. If using epoxy for bonding I always drill pass through holes in the tang so that the epoxy passes through to the opposite scale. I also score heavily or rough mill the scales to give lands for the epoxy to embed. It is best to have a machanical lock. I have never had good fortune using epoxy to bond with metal. I use the good stuff too. Super glue does it for these stones. Just go light with it because the stones will absorb and as the stones become thin from use you can get into the super glue that had obsorbed. Do not apply glue to the stone. Apply it to surface of bar only and keep stone facing up to the sky while curing. That gives you gravity as your helper in keeping glue from penetrating too deeply. It will not release and holds a death grip. Heating super glue to temperatures tolerated by aluminum does not defeat it. You can do that with epoxies but not super glue. With care, pound the heck out of the stone surface and it will release and release in fragments. Does not take long. Use a sharp edge to scrape clean the bar surface and attach new stone. Works fine, lasts a long time.

rlinger
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You can get great replacements from McMaster-Carr for about $3 a stone. Buy yourself a can of 3M 77 spray adhesive. That is how Ben puts all his stones on the plates. I actually ordered 10 blank plates ($2 each) from Ben and made up a bunch of different stones.
 
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