Report on an outing

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Nov 27, 2004
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Hello all,

At the beginning of August, I had the pleasure of spending almost two weeks on a canoe trip on Murtle Lake, in British Columbia’s beautiful Wells Gray Provincial Park. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I can only hope that it always remains as vivid in my memory as it is today. My father and I worked to ensure that our schedules would permit us to take this trip together this summer, which was no small feat – but since this was to be our first wilderness outing together (after many on our own), it was worth the extra work. I could write for hours on end about the trip, the mountains, the fishing, the bears(!), and the northern lights, but I’ll try to focus on some subjects of relevance to this particular forum.

I’ll start by sketching a brief outline of the trip to contextualize things.

Murtle Lake is Wells Gray’s largest, at about 57 square kilometres. Wells Gray Park itself is in east-central BC, 137 km north of Kamloops, 410 km northeast of Vancouver. It’s a huge park (BC’s fourth largest), encompassing over 1.3 million acres. Murtle Lake is located to the east of the park, and it is accessible only after a long drive along logging roads and a 40 min. portage. It is a canoe / kayak –only lake, apparently North America’s largest. No motorized vehicles are allowed, save for the small craft used by park rangers. This means that the lake is, at all times, blissfully silent and natural. It also means that you have to think carefully about your itinerary and about safety concerns, as paddling out under adverse circumstances could be quite challenging. Since the lake is ringed by mountains and dense forest (rainforest by classification, I believe), walking out would only be an option for the most experienced outdoorsmen, and I don’t count myself in that category.

Murtle looks like an inverted ‘L’, with a short western arm (more popular with tourists due to its warmer waters, better fishing, and nicer beaches), and a long northern arm cutting up through some rugged mountains. We decided to spend our time in the northern arm, due to the more challenging paddling, the spectacular scenery, and the fact than everyone else was in the western arm. Both my father and I have outdoors experience, and we are strong canoeists.

We packed enough food to get us by during our time out, but planned to supplement meals with fresh fish (Murtle has some fantastic trout fishing). All of our gear had to fit in a single canoe without weighing things down too much, so we packed carefully. As a provincial park, Wells Gray has limitations on wood cutting and burning – and we like to practice low impact camping anyways. Accordingly, we brought a small camp stove and several cylinders of white gas for cooking. No firearms are allowed in the park, and we adhered to this rule. Murtle Lake really is ‘bear country’, with both black bears and grizzlies around. They are not accustomed to people, and have been known to act aggressively (or at least with a degree of persistent curiosity). A teenaged grizzly decided to announce itself while we were sleeping at 11:30 at night, for example. Everything ended well for all involved, thankfully.

In addition to some decent paddling (sometimes over 20km / day), we did a fair bit of hiking and climbing, on maintained but difficult trails.

Below you can see a picture of the Northernmost tip of Murtle Lake. Breathtaking, eh?

murtlenorth.jpg


Right, so that’s a general outline. Bearing (pun intended) that in mind, I thought I would talk a bit about the gear I brought along, how it worked, and what I would modify for next time.

Before leaving, I talked a bit about my kit setup in this thread.

To recap, I based my kit around a Becker BK-9, with the sheath modified to include a large secondary pouch and a leg retention strap. In addition to this, I had my Becker Necker around my neck at all times. I chose the BK-9 for its size, durability, and chopping power. For smaller tasks, I had the necker, and a Leatherman Wave in my sheath kit. All things considered, this was close to a perfect setup, and I would use it again in a heartbeat. The sheath kit also contained a cylinder of wind and waterproof matches, an altoids mini-survival kit, a pencil, loads of paracord, two small rolls of tape (duct and survey, both wrapped around cardboard-backed sandpaper for emergency sharpening) and an allen key to remove the BK-9 handle scales (another mini-kit, with fishing supplies and some fire starting material was inside the scales). I wore my BK-9 at all times, save when I was sleeping.

In terms of performance:

The BK-9 did everything I asked it to extremely well. I did not find the weight obnoxious (reassuring actually), and the added leg strap meant that it didn’t sit uncomfortably while I was paddling. I used the knife mostly for chopping and cutting wood, as we did make camp fires on a few nights (average temperature in the mountains at that time was about 4-5 C at night). The blade made short work of small dead branches and sticks, but where it really shone was in batoning through larger logs. The park rangers who maintain the camp sites around the lake leave a few large log sections around for firewood or sitting stools, and these logs are quite beefy. Note that the sites are little more than cleared areas near the shore, with bear caches. They are there as much to protect the park as to provide comfort for visitors, as the lake has in the past (in the ‘30s, I believe) suffered from irresponsible camping. Anyways, the BK-9 did a wonderful job of splitting logs; its blade is long enough to allow you to split off a reasonable chunk of wood without losing your batoning surface. It withstood a few hours’ worth of solid spine-whacking, with no concerns aside from some serious wear on the coating. The knife did not suffer any edge damage, and it sharpened up nicely after a bit of work with my pocket ceramic stone. The handle, which I was a bit ambivalent about, was actually quite comfortable. During lengthy baton-work, I wore my paddling glove to grip it, in order to better absorb the shock from the blows. The knife was also put to use fishing, as it was necessary to clean our catches out on the lake, so as to avoid any unnecessary fish scent near our camp. This required us to kill the fish, and the thick spine of the Becker made things quick and painless. Of course, we could have used a piece of wood or a rock, but it’s always nice to know that your ‘EDC’ outdoors knife is a multi-tasker!

Below, you can see a shot of my BK-9 on some terrific driftwood.

BK9_wood.jpg


And here's a shot of my BK-9 beside lunch.

BK9_trout.jpg


The Becker necker saw a fair bit of use in food preparation and odd jobs, where it didn’t let me down (although I didn’t exactly push it to the limit). One of the reasons I brought it along was to see if it would take the place of a comparably-sized folder, which I usually bring on my wilderness outings. In terms of cutting ability, there was no difference, and none expected. However, the necker seemed more accessible. This was particularly apparent while we were on the water, as I wear padded paddling gloves (think of a cross between a wetsuit and a biking glove), which are difficult to remove quickly and would have made accessing a clipped folder awkward. On those rare occasions where something had to be cut while we were paddling, I appreciated the ease with which I could draw, use, and replace the necker. I would definitely bring this knife along again, although I think I might experiment with a thinner blade in the future.

Below is a shot of me with my Becker Necker at Strait Lake, a 1/2 day hike from Murtle Lake.

BKnecker.jpg


The Wave did everything that the other two didn’t, and between the three there were no insurmountable cutting challenges. The thin, sharp blade on the Wave was perfect for making fuzz sticks, whittling, and sharpening pencils (I write for a living and I couldn’t by without a notebook and pencil, even in the woods!). The saw came in handy a few times, and the scissors allowed me to make the odd beard grooming. The pliers came in quite handy while we were fishing. I usually fish for bass, and I find that it’s rare when I catch one and need pliers to remove the hook before releasing it, given their large mouths; kokanee and the trout we were catching in Murtle, on the other hand, have smaller mouths and seem to really inhale their food. Pliers were a must, and the Leatherman did not disappoint. My only beef with this multitool is its tendency to accumulate rust spots, particularly in the inner workings. On several occasions, I used the tool while fishing, put it back in the sheath, and removed it while on shore later only to find rust spots. They were easy to wipe away, though, and I suppose I’ll just have to be more methodical in my drying from now on. A SAK would have done all of the same tasks as well or better, except for those requiring pliers, so I feel the extra weight of the multitool was worth it.

As for other items of kit, I’m pleased to say that nothing felt superfluous or wasted. I didn’t use the survey tape, but I did require duct tape on a few occasions (once for an absolutely vital water bottle patch). The real MVP of my non-knife kit gear was the length of paracord I attached to my sheath with a small carabiner-style clip. I always throw a sizeable roll of cord in my hiking pack, but this time I made sure to keep some on my person, and to replenish it with fresh material after it was used. The clip allowed me to remove the cord from my sheath without worrying about untying it, which was convenient. I owe that role of cord (about 60 ft) for a few impromptu rain shelter frames, clotheslines, and gear tie-downs. It really came in handy on the way out of the lake. After canoeing through rough weather for about 10 km, portaging for 40 minutes, and loading all of our gear into the truck, we realized that the side tie-down straps for the canoe were actually IN one of our packs. Since everything was already packed up, I said ‘to hell with it’, and simply tied the canoe to the rack with healthy amounts of paracord. Between this and a spirited ‘Newfoundland roof rack’, we managed to keep on-schedule.

What will I change next time? Well, I’ll probably keep the BK-9 as the core of my system, but I can see the merits of a different neck knife, geared towards slicing. I have a few ‘Gentleman’s Companion’ kits from knifekits.com that might make good neck knives with a bit of modification, so I might look into that option. In terms of kit gear, and bearing in mind that it’s only possible to carry so much in a leg sheath, I will definitely make a few additions, first and foremost a lighter. While I always had a lighter in my left pocket, I kept wondering how I would get by with just the matches if I happened to get lost and lose it. I will also work on adding my pocket spyderstone to the kit somehow, perhaps in a small pouch outside the main sheath.

That’s about it for now. I welcome any questions, comments, or feedback on my setup. I hope that this was of interest!

All the best,

- Mike
 
I will first respond in saying I hate you as I am extremley jealous :D. Great review and good pictures. Good to see you had fun with your beckers in such a beautiful place.
 
Excellent pictures (especially the first one which I have copied for my desktop down the road).

I found your comments about your Necker interesting. I personally can't abide something hanging completely around my neck (might have been hung as a horse thief in a previous life :( ) Generally, I wear a Mora on 3-braid 550, diagonally across my body (like a bandolier). It eliminates the 'completely around the neck' problem and is still readily available when sitting in the canoe. Yes, for all you purists, I said 'sitting'.

I agree with your take on folders, although for a different reason. They are sand traps waiting to happen. Yes, I know, I can wash them out in the lake and relube them, but I generally don't need this extra work when out and about. Doesn't mean that I don't like folders, though.

As far as the wave goes, it would take some kind of divine intervention to get me to replace my Vic SAK, although I have looked at some of the Victorinox multi tools.

I don't have a BK-9, but I do have a Machax that I 'wouldn't leave home without'. I found it somewhat heavy to wear in a canoe though, so I generally leave it either in or attached to my pack while on the water, and rely on my Mora. It, like your BK-9, can split firewood all day long.

I'm glad you had such a wonderful trip, especially that you could share it with your father. As a father and a grandfather, myself, I can assure you that it is something he will treasure always.

Doc
 
I have enjoyed your post immensely! Very succinct description of what had to be a fantastic trip. My wife and I are taking up canoeing a little more serious each year (we have small children to consider), and a trip like yours is my ultimate goal.
As far as cooking, sleeping and shelter, what did you use? I don't go anywhere without my Charge XTi and I keep a Wave in my gear. Unlimited usage as far as I see it, but how was your Wave the most beneficial to you?
Thanks for sharing this with us!
 
Wow, awesome country. Nice review on the knives, I totally agree with you on your choices, for I carry the same. If you haven't yet, think about using that dog tag chain material to hang your necker around your neck. Just take some 550 cord and take the strands out and put the dog tag chain through the 550 cord for comfort. That way if you should happen to fall and your necker gets caught on something it will break away and not hang you, just an idea.

If you have more pictures of your trip please post them.
 
Great job with that write up and the pics. Glad you had a good time. I have done nothing this summer and it kills me. Glad someone enjoyed it.
 
Thanks for the comments! I'll try to respond to a few points.

I found your comments about your Necker interesting. I personally can't abide something hanging completely around my neck (might have been hung as a horse thief in a previous life :( ) Generally, I wear a Mora on 3-braid 550, diagonally across my body (like a bandolier). It eliminates the 'completely around the neck' problem and is still readily available when sitting in the canoe. Yes, for all you purists, I said 'sitting'.

I agree with your take on folders, although for a different reason. They are sand traps waiting to happen. Yes, I know, I can wash them out in the lake and relube them, but I generally don't need this extra work when out and about. Doesn't mean that I don't like folders, though.

As far as the wave goes, it would take some kind of divine intervention to get me to replace my Vic SAK, although I have looked at some of the Victorinox multi tools.
Doc

The sand-in-the-works issue is another reason I have moved away from folders for these sorts of trips. I EDC folders in the city, but when I'm in the woods, the simplicity of a fixed blade is preferable. This was a good decision for Murtle Lake, which has an odd combination of mountain, forest, volcanic scree, alpine and sand beaches. Near the northern tip, a significant pyrite content in the glacial run-off results in beautiful golden shorlines - great to look at, but since fine particulate is actually suspended in the water, cleaning a folder would be a difficult chore.

I can completely understand your aversion to neck rigs, as I felt the same way up until a few years ago. A decent shoulder strap would probably still be preferable for me. However, since I wear a pea-less whistle around my neck when I'm in the woods anyways, I started using neck knives and haven't looked back. I find this arrangement useful for backpacking, as I can shoulder or remove my pack without the knife getting in the way. That being said, if you can recommend a good shoulder rig, I'll look into it.

As far as cooking, sleeping and shelter, what did you use? I don't go anywhere without my Charge XTi and I keep a Wave in my gear. Unlimited usage as far as I see it, but how was your Wave the most beneficial to you?
Thanks for sharing this with us!

The Wave came in particularly handy when it came to fishing, as the pliers allowed me to remove troublesome hooks and to set up my rigs (incidentally, I found that none of my tackle could out-perform a simple black / silver spoon, but that didn't stop me from trying all sorts of arrangements). The saw came in handy a few times, and the straight edge blade was useful for fine cutting work such as shaving garlic for trout recipes. A SAK would have done the same tasks well, but I whould have had to bring along a separate set of pliers for fishing, which would have been a bit of a hassle.

My tent is a Eureka! Spitfire Duo. It's just the right size, as it is lightweight and compact enough for me to pack around on my own but large enough to accomodate both myself and my wife when we're camping together. My father also has a compact '1.5 person' tent, a Jack Wolfskin. Aside from this, we brought along a rather heavy waterproof tarp that ably kept anything not inside the tents dry. I always include a few thick garbage bags in my pack, for improvised shelter or rain-gear uses, but I did not need to use them this time out. Looking back, the shelter setup seemed appropriate, although things may have been uncomfortable if the temperature had dipped a bit further.

Cooking was accomplished with an MSR WhisperLite white gas stove, and a nice set of MSR pots / pans. This was one of those situations where thorough gear knowledge and experimentation before setting out would have been helpful. I had not used this particular model before, and gave it a first test run when we were staying at a heli-ski resort in Clearwater, BC, prior to setting out the next day. I followed the manufacturer's instructions, but the result was a fair bit of wasted fuel and a large orange flame as opposed to a controlled cooking flame. While I managed to get things sorted out, we were concerned that repeats of that experience would seriously drain our fuel supply. At the time, we were under the impression that the park fire regulations were such that camp fires would be a very rare thing, so the thought of a gas-guzzling stove wasn't appealing at all. An encounter with a ranger at the end of the portage clarified the fire policy ("go ahead, just use the wood you find cached"), and some experimentation with the stove on our first night sorted that out as well. As it turns out, the instructions overstated the amount of fuel that had to be in the 'spoon' prior to lighting; after I figured this out, the unit worked beautifully, and we ended our trip with plenty of gas to spare.

All the best,

- Mike
 
If you have more pictures of your trip please post them.

No problem. No knife content, but plenty of wilderness:

Below is a shot of the two of us near camp a few days in. I think this was the only day where it made sense to wear shorts. The canoe in the foreground is a Clipper, BTW.

murtle_duo.jpg


Below is a shot from the shore after we put in to take shelter from a storm that seemed to come out of nowhere. The water went from glass to two ft swells in about five minutes, and we managed to make it to shore just before things became dangerous. The region is volcanic, and much of the rock along this particular shorline is black volcanic debris. Finding a spot to pull the canoe out of the water was a real challenge, and in the end I had to jump out and haul the lightened front end out. As a side note, despite being knee-deep in water, my feet did not get wet. I fell in love with my Columbia boots at that point.

murtle_east.jpg


Below is a shot of a small portion of the West arm of Murtle, as seen from the summit of Central Mountain at 2103 m. In the bacground, you can see the southern Cariboo Mountains. The climb took about 3 hours, during which I realized that my legs need a bit more in the way of regular exercise. Beautiful hike, though. To the northeast (180 degrees from this view), you can see the spine of the Rocky Mountains. Humbling.

murtle_summit.jpg


This is another view of the extreme northern tip of the lake. Actually, the lake is behind me here, and I'm past the treeline, looking north towards the mountains. What looks like a field is actually a marsh, about a mile in diameter, fed by glacial run-off. Those are berry bushes, and we found plenty of evidence of recent grizzly presence in the area.

murtle_north.jpg


Below is a view of the sunset from about halfway up the northern arm of the lake. The afternoon winds make direct crossings unwise, but we timed our serious paddling for the morning and evening, which meant at least three trips across the middle of the lake, in various spots.

murtle_west.jpg


Finally, here's the obligatory shot of the sunset in the mountains, taken from the north side of the western arm. Right about this time the fish would be jumping like mad, feasting on flies. On top of that, the loons would be calling. Murtle, as a paddle-only lake, has a truly massive loon population. I've never seen or heard anything like it before. With no motorcraft to disturb nesting, few visitors, and a large fish population, it's loon central. I'm used to seeing one or two loons on a lake in Muskoka or northern Ontario, but here they would set out in fishing 'fleets' of 8-10 family members, and actively call to other groups. It was amazing. If I recall correctly, this was one of our last nights, and I took this picture after smoking a nice cigar. Life is good.

murtle_sunset.jpg


All for now - I have to get some work done.

Cheers,

- Mike
 
Yep, I'm a LITTLE jealous to say the least Mike :p Looks like you had an awesome trip. Thanks for sharing :)
 
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