Reprofile Council Jersey or go with GB American Felling Axe?

C

cm_bushman

Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
314
I'm a small guy (5'10", 140lb), so I typically use small axes. I've been looking to step up to full-size felling axes though, now that my strength and accuracy are improving, and actually have inherited a late-model (looks about 5-10 years old) Council Jersey from my father that is in pretty good shape. I'm wondering what you guys think about buying a grinder and reprofiling the Jersey, or just going the easy route and buying a GB American Felling? I'm working on reprofiling the Boy's Axe (by hand) for better bite, but man, it's a lot of work. A Jersey would be even more, I reckon. With a grinder, it would be much faster, but I run the risk of ruining the axe totally, I fear.

The axe would be mostly for felling and bucking, but would also see use in splitting larger logs at home. I'm shooting for the 3.5lb since I'm smaller and am used to 2-2.5lb axes. Do you guys think the Velvicut 4lb. Is a better choice, or some other Axe for an all-rounder?
 
cm_bushman said:
I've inherited a late-model (looks about 5-10 years old) Council Jersey from my father that is in pretty good shape. I'm wondering what you guys think about buying a grinder and reprofiling the Jersey, or just going the easy route and buying a GB American Felling? I'm working on reprofiling the Boy's Axe (by hand) for better bite, but man, it's a lot of work. A Jersey would be even more, I reckon. With a grinder, it would be much faster, but I run the risk of ruining the axe totally, I fear.
The axe would be mostly for felling and bucking, but would also see use in splitting larger logs at home.
Click to expand...

Sound judgement. Lots of folks have made a real quick mess with a stationary or a portable grinder. Plus you stand to lose the blade temper. Files are slow but they do teach you to think things through, keep blades out of the ground and not to make edges knife taper-sharp. Plus in a lifetime you'll never resharpen an axe into oblivion.
Very few folks fell or buck trees with an axe anymore! Rather than invest in a grinder maybe you want to start scoping out power saws or old-fashioned bucksaws. The sudden increase in material output will considerably benefit your Jersey skills when it comes time to split all of it. And you'll never need a fitness club membership.
 
Files aren't that slow if used properly. The key is having your axe head well secured in a vise or clamped to your bench. You want the axe to be at about the height of your navel. Use a 10" or 12" double cut file with a good handle. Make sure it's sharp and keep a file card handy to keep the grooves clear of filings. Bear down with both hands and file into the bit not away from it. Old axes can have an oxidation layer on them that is very hard to penetrate. Slowly get through that layer in one area and then work out from there letting the file remove the oxidation layer from underneath.

With good technique you'll be surprised how fast the metal comes off.

Profile both sides and then finish with whetstones.
 
I know which way I would go, but I'm a cheap Yankee. I'll always see if what I already have will work, plus dad's axe? Not a hard choice for me. Watch a few YouTube vids on proper technique, practice on a cheapy.
 
I'd just continue to to work the CT head until you have it where you want it. They are great axes, and you really can't go wrong with one. Use a big file like peg said...that makes all the difference. That and make sure it's a good file...I have some cheapo files that won't bite into axe bits at all. The grinder will almost certainly ruin the axe, and it would likely end up with uneven and under- and over-ground bevels. Stick with the vice and file and you can't go wrong. It takes a little effort, but it's well worth it.
 
Oly, is that a Council tool head? If it is it looks like it has a higher centerline than what I have been seeing.
 
Thanks for the support guys, I'll keep filing away! So the Jersey from Council doesn't really give anything up to the GB or Velvicut when properly profiled? Or at least not enough to justify it over restoration? I know the GB is a Jersey anyway, but I hear they have superior steel.

My Hults Bruks Forest Axe certainly runs harder than my boy's axe from Council, but then again, I have paid for that with occasional chips.


What about double-bits? I have a small cruiser that's just about worn out (love the thing to death though), but I don't see much competition for a Council Michigan under $100.
 
Gbs are profiled with flat cheeks. This makes them bite deeper,but STICK. Not something you want in a full sized axe. I prefer american, vintage axe patterns with high centerlines for full sized axes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top