Reprofiled edge request from secondary flat to convex ground

AugustChief

AugustChief

Joined
Apr 5, 2010
Messages
44
Hello,

I’m a new member (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720360&page=13) that previously lurked while gleaning from your wisdom and years of experience…finally went gold.

I previously posted in the wrong forum area, and subsequently reposted. I reviewed all relevant past threads to obtain the information that I needed and would like to send my knife soon. I typed a memo with pics to describe what I desire using previous posted forumite threads (I hope no one minds, if so I shall remove) and my two years of practical application with this style blade. (Please see attached MS Word document)

FrontTB1.jpg


Reprofiled area (rough draft):
FrontTB1mods.jpg


A little about myself: I’m active duty military with 12 years of service, avid outdoorsman and I absolutely love knives.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, positive....negative.

Are these requested mods good to go? Who would you recommend for this work and what is a reasonable price?

Thanks in advance for your assistance on this matter

R/
Jonathan
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Tom Krein would by my first choice. He has worked on the Tracker knife in the past and the pics were outstanding. If you already love the knife, he has a way of breathing new life and excitement into your trusty tool.

I can not tell from your text in the post, are you looking to have the entire edge (tip to choil) converted from saber flat to saber convex? In other words, are you trying to have the convex grind started about where the flat starts now, or start it up by the spine/saw portion of the blade? Do you want a convex microbevel (if it is needed or not) or are you looking for a convex to zero grind?

I think it is an interesting project and I hope you post pics when the job is completed. As far as price, it is hard to say, but Tom could give you a quote I'd bet.

Take care,

Doug
 
Last edited:
ChapmanPreferred said:
Tom Krein would by my first choice. He has worked on the Tracker knife in the past and the pics were outstanding. If you already love the knife, he has a way of breathing new life and excitement into your trusty tool.

I can not tell from your text in the post, are you looking to have the entire edge (tip to choil) converted from saber flat to saber convex? In other words, are you trying to have the convex grind started about where the flat starts now, or start it up by the spine/saw portion of the blade? Do you want a convex microbevel (if it is needed or not) or are you looking for a convex to zero grind?

I think it is an interesting project and I hope you post pics when the job is completed. As far as price, it is hard to say, but Tom could give you a quote I'd bet.

Take care,

Doug
Click to expand...


Thanks for the rapid fire feedback Doug :thumbup:

I just attached a MS Word memo and image depicting what I believe would enhance the experience. Do have the BF thread depciting his work and is this the SME...http://www.kreinknives.net/home.htm?

Much appreciated

W/R
Jonathan
 
Last edited:
Here is a link to the contact portion of his website:

http://www.kreinknives.net/contact.htm

He likes to talk to his customers on the phone, so you might start the ball rolling with a phone call and then direct him to this thread.

His username on this forum is Tom Krein and here is a link to a thread that he posted in incase you want to PM a link to this thread to him.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729403

I hope this helps!

** Edit **

Tom could definately accomplish what you are looking for but let me summerize to see if I understand what the text in the MS Word document is stating.

1. Reprofile the chopping portion of the cutting edge (point to hook)
2. Regrind the chopping portion saber grind to a convex saber grind with a 20 degree microbevel

Not sure about this next point

3. Regrind the draw knife portion of the blade (base of the hook to the choil) to a really high convex grind with a 20 degree microbevel.

It looks like you are trying to have your TOPS Tracker look more like the one used in the movie "The Hunted" and to cut more efficiently.
 
Last edited:
I think that if TOPS made the knife the way you want to have yours reprofiled and reground to be, they would sell more of them. Nice job.

** Edit **
I just sent you a PM with a link to a picture of Tom's treatment of a Tracker. Similar to what you are asking about, but the draw knife portion of the blade is a high hollow grind not a high convex grind.
 
Last edited:
ChapmanPreferred said:
Here is a link to the contact portion of his website:

http://www.kreinknives.net/contact.htm

He likes to talk to his customers on the phone, so you might start the ball rolling with a phone call and then direct him to this thread.

His username on this forum is Tom Krein and here is a link to a thread that he posted in incase you want to PM a link to this thread to him.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729403

I hope this helps!

** Edit **

Tom could definately accomplish what you are looking for but let me summerize to see if I understand what the text in the MS Word document is stating.

1. Reprofile the chopping portion of the cutting edge (point to hook)
2. Regrind the chopping portion saber grind to a convex saber grind with a 20 degree microbevel

Not sure about this next point

3. Regrind the draw knife portion of the blade (base of the hook to the choil) to a really high convex grind with a 20 degree microbevel.

It looks like you are trying to have your TOPS Tracker look more like the one used in the movie "The Hunted" and to cut more efficiently.
Click to expand...

1. Perfectly stated:thumbup:
2. This edge already has a microbevel which appears to simply be flat V grind with an extra bevel on both sides, degree unknown. I understand this gives the edge some added strength. However, I believe (Please correct me if I'm wrong) this grind simply tries to acheive with flat angles what a convex edge accomplishes with a rounded edge. :)
3. Yes, but instead of a microbevel I believe (again, please correct me if I'm wrong:D) a convex ground edge is the strongest of all the edge types. Because of the arch in the edge, the edge has a higher resistance to rolling and chipping. Convex edges are great for chopping and paring. Because the base angle on this grind is steeper than other grinds, a convex edge can make a thick blade cut more like a thin blade while retaining the heft behind the edge.

I would also like to modify the tang/handle as necessary, to give the knife stability that coincides with new stock removal.

I don't know the specs of the original Medicine blade, but images appear to depict superior geometry and knife aficionados acclaim Dave Beck's and R. Linger's work. TOPS (Great patriotic comany) version TBT -01 neeeds serious tinkering:D , prior to achieving a much more respectable performance.

I discovered this after my continued frustration during bushcraft practical application. Thank you for your continued support, you have added much clarity!
 
Last edited:
Tom Krein is the way to go. His work is fantastic, he's done many of mine.

He also makes some great knives...
 
I had Tom do some Full Convex Grind on a couple of Spyderco knives and with the blade steels that I had and the blade steel thickness, he had to add convex microbevels so the edge did not crumble in use. Here is a pic of the FCG Spyderco Moran FB01:

IMG_5001.jpg

IMG_5003.jpg

IMG_5004.jpg


Here is a couple shots of my Spyderco Native that received the same treatment.

IMG_4998.jpg

IMG_4999.jpg


With the blade thickness you have in your knife, perhaps a Convex grind to zero edge (read no micro bevel) might be possible, but Tom would have the final word I suppose!

Again, I would love to see pics when your knife has been fixed up and returned to you!

Take care,

Doug
 
Thanks for sharing Doug ,

Beautiful knives/regrind...the Krein regrind stamp made me smile as it denotes true pride in craftmanship.:thumbup:

I'm not a knife expert and the memo/pics are only recommendations to improve the knife geometry and cutting/chopping performance.

End state is me genuflecting before Mr. Krein provided he accepts, and going with his recommendations.

You will be the first to see the pics, I'll PM you. I'm deploying in 14MAY2010 and hope to get the work done prior to....hopefully this is feasible.

My wife ;) is already giving me a hard time, considering I recently purchased a $300+ Hedgehog Leatherworks Pocket & Firestarter T1 sheath:D and new ASOLO TPG 520 Boots....

There's no turning back, constant steady relentless pressure...

I'm off on a hike with the wife/kids (labs) to break in the boots.:)

W/R
Jonathan
 
That Moran still makes me jealous every time I see it. Must be some real good etching on the blade! (Talking about the Moran signature ofc)
 
I just discussed the techinical aspects of my request with Mr. Krein and my blade is enroute. Mr. Krein was extremely professional, promptly returned my call and will be expediting the job in time for my upcoming deployment. :thumbup:

Finalized reshaping, reprofile with full regrind:

1. TIP-HEEL: Request to reshape, reprofile and fully regrind item (1) in accordance with enclosure (1), Figure B depicting variable grind height and depth from spine to point, and Figure A white outlined modifications. Current secondary flat ground edge is thicker than needed; request it be thinned to convex ground edge IAW white outline on Figure A and your recommended degree, to facilitate grinding at a much higher acute angle while maintaining enough edge integrity. My intent is to increase cutting/strength substantially without the knife taking damage during routine cutting and to prevent chipping, denting and rolling. NOTE: Please include your regrind logo and my initials “JDR0762,” if possible.
2. INSCISOR GUARD: Please make inscisor guard more pronounced akin to your K-9 knives on your website and enclosure 1.
3. HANDLE: Please modify tang/handle by drilling multiple holes in tang to remove stock and lighten overall knife without compromising integrity. Rehandle with “canvas micarta” and “loveless bolts” that fit the natural curve of a clasped hand and efficiently aids repetitive cutting motions in “any” color that blends with the desert. Leave lanyard hole.
4. BLADE FINISH: Please leave a smoke textured gray finish to eliminate any reflective surfaces. If bead blasting is used to accomplish this, my only concern would be the collection and holding of moisture this creates, which would cause the blade to rust more easily in the field.
5. PURPOSE: Please note knife will be used for carving, cutting, splitting small logs and tree-felling in addition to tactical military applications. It will be with me outdoors and accompany me on all deployments.
 
Last edited:
thats pretty cool of him to send you a wip photo...im interested to see how this one ends up when hes done. itll be a whole new knife for sure.
 
I am totally on board with this project! Thanks for the update. I think I will cruise over to the USN and check out the post there. :)
 
Oh sure, it looks nice, but is it sharp? (running, laughing, ducking for cover ;)) :D

Where did you get that sheath? I need one!

I meant to say, I think your <expletive deleted> eating grin says it all! Another home run by TK!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top