reprofiled my horseman, how about you?

zyhano

zyhano

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Dec 3, 2009
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Yup, took out my most coarse grit waterstone and got rid of the chisel grind :D

Even though sharpening the chisel grind was not really a problem, the 'wrong' side chisel grind irritated me for some cutting things as I really couldn't get a good straight cut and I had trouble getting it to 'grab' things I was cutting, I had to alter the angle I was holding the blade sometimes.

The final straw was when I was in the middle of a youtube demo taking down the emerson and decided to cut up some paper (check my sig/channel). I think I got away with it in the video since no one noticed, but I wasn't happy with it when trying it spontaneously, it didn't grab the paper very well.:rolleyes:

So after spending some qt with the horseman I'm now very happy with the reprofiled edge. 220 japanese water stone, 1000 grit japanese water stone and then some extensive stropping.

The way it handles is now more in line with my other knives and I like it better.

I've decided that I no longer want chisel ground blades even though I do want more emerson knives.
So it's either no more chisel grinds or just me reprofiling them whenever I get one.

Any of you ever reprofiled their emerson? I'd love to hear more about the how and why and of your experiences :thumbup:
 
I have a horseman also and I couldn't get it super sharp on the Sharpmaker.
I could get it quite sharp though.

Recently I started using a leather strop and it is now very very sharp.

My new cqc 15 is incredibly sharp out of the box and I'll try to maintain that one on the strop.

For me it was the stropping that made the big difference.

Fyi, the cqc 7 is a true chisel grind while most other Emerson's are a conventional V-grind, which has the final bevel only on 1 side.

The 7 is completely flat on one side of the blade.
 
yup, horseman is conventional v-grind, with final bevel on only one side

cqc7, tanto blade, is a true chisel grind
 
I would prefer a zero bevel edge but the single edge bevel V grind works just fine for me.

A sharp knife will cut no matter what the grind is at the end of the day.:thumbup:
 
PachaasPaisaa said:
the horseman has a chisel ground blade??

i thought it was conventional v-grind....
Click to expand...

none of the EKI's have what i would call a "conventional "v" grind", not like say a spyderco millie, regardless of statements to the contrary lol, call it what ya will its imho more a chisel grind than anything, it cuts more like a CG, ya sharpen more like a CG, not that thats bad, its just not what i term a "std conventional v grind" like on say a spyderco millie. when properly sharpened they work just fine for most things.

i have seen a few which were reprofiled, some by 'smiths, they varied from fairly good (a commander which was professionally done by someone) to horrible ( a CQC7b the owner had butchered into what some might would call a "odd conventional v grind" lol) but in general i prefer to either leave them as is like ernie designed 'em, or do a krein regrind on 'em, thats the only 2 options that appeal to me,

if ya want the thing to be really sharp let tom krein re-do it,
 
haze said it: single edge bevel V grind, sounds good, that's it.

Nothing wrong with the chisel, it's just not working for me being a right handed knife dude and I couldnt' get straight cuts.
 
I'd love to see some pics of these regrinds if possible :)

Trying to decide what, if anything, to do with my QCQ-8.

I like the factory chisel but am now thinking another option might be better. I have considered either a chisel grind but with a much wider bevel, or a conventional V grind.

The knife sees daily use opening boxes, cutting cardboard and packing tape, cutting some vegetation etc.

Option 1:

Regrinding the factory chisel to around twice the hight (or width? Not sure of the terms) thereby halving the angle of the edge.

Then I could lightly grind the back side side dead flat from the halfway point down to give it a true chisel edge at least from half the blades width. this would probably take all the black off the blade on the back side from the main bevel/halfway point on down to the tip but that's cool.

Option 2: Grind it in a straight line from the halfway point/main bevel to the tip, then give it a tiny micro bevel at a slightly steeper edge. This would turn the blade silver from the main bevel (red line in the pic below from when it was near new) to the edge, again that's cool.

IMG_1.jpg


Option 3: Something else. What do you guys suggest?

Thanks,

Steve
 
I kept the chisel v grind but re beveled the grind to match the angle of my sharpmaker.It just took some time, patience, dry erase marker, and a diamond rod : ) Its a lot sharper now as well as easier to sharpen. I did the same with my cqc8
 
stevenkelby said:
I'd love to see some pics of these regrinds if possible :)

Trying to decide what, if anything, to do with my QCQ-8.

I like the factory chisel but am now thinking another option might be better. I have considered either a chisel grind but with a much wider bevel, or a conventional V grind.

The knife sees daily use opening boxes, cutting cardboard and packing tape, cutting some vegetation etc.

Option 1:

Regrinding the factory chisel to around twice the hight (or width? Not sure of the terms) thereby halving the angle of the edge.

Then I could lightly grind the back side side dead flat from the halfway point down to give it a true chisel edge at least from half the blades width. this would probably take all the black off the blade on the back side from the main bevel/halfway point on down to the tip but that's cool.

Option 2: Grind it in a straight line from the halfway point/main bevel to the tip, then give it a tiny micro bevel at a slightly steeper edge. This would turn the blade silver from the main bevel (red line in the pic below from when it was near new) to the edge, again that's cool.

IMG_1.jpg


Option 3: Something else. What do you guys suggest?

Thanks,

Steve
Click to expand...

if it was mine i would krein it.............
 
SIFU1A said:
if it was mine i would krein it.............
Click to expand...

Yup, beyond simply just reprofiling the factory edge your best bet is to send it off to T.K. or Richard J. is another one capable of taking care of such things. :thumbup:
 
Haze said:
Yup, beyond simply just reprofiling the factory edge your best bet is to send it off to T.K. or Richard J. is another one capable of taking care of such things. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I just sent my Mini Com to Tom for his regrind treatment. Can't wait to get it back.

Been very happy with my Horseman and 7B's in the sharpening/sharpness dept. (hair-whittling), and my Mini Com for the most part, but I think having Tom thin out that wicked recurve will make it my meanest EKI for sure.

Oh, for anyone trying to get a hold of Tom, I found the best thing to do is give him a call.:thumbup:
 
stevenkelby said:
Alright alright I'm sending it to him! :D
Click to expand...

ya wont regret it, i have been meaning to send my '12 to him, i just dont carry it much (at all?) anymore so i never think about it, but i am gonna do it soon.

i have even thought about sending my custom '13 but i hesitate to do that, probably not a good idea to mod custom emersons,
 
I reprofiled my father's 13 on an edgepro. He couldn't get the hang of the chisel thing. With that said, if you can't cut paper EASILY with a CG EKI, you are not sharpening it right:)
 
richstag said:
I reprofiled my father's 13 on an edgepro. He couldn't get the hang of the chisel thing. With that said, if you can't cut paper EASILY with a CG EKI, you are not sharpening it right:)
Click to expand...

No doubt. My 7B's are two of my sharpest, and easiest to sharpen, Emersons.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
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