Reprofiling a convex grind as a scandi grind

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Feb 2, 2016
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I've had a Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter for a while now, and I always find myself reaching for one of my scandi grind knives. I love everything about my 162 but I cant get used to the convex, does anyone know where or how I can reprofile my 162 to have a scandinavian grind?

Edit: At some point, someone told me my 162 was convex, from what you guys have said so far it is a sabre grind (I have done no reprofiling, the blade has not been altered since manufacture)
 
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I've had a Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter for a while now, and I always find myself reaching for one of my scandi grind knives. I love everything about my 162 but I cant get used to the convex, does anyone know where or how I can reprofile my 162 to have a scandinavian grind?

I don't want to say you can't but it wouldn't look the way you want.

It's already a saber grind.

I'd recommend putting a convex edge on it and blending it into the saber
 
So having handled many 162's I can assure you none come with a convex...did you but it used and modified? Pix would help
 
I've had a Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter for a while now, and I always find myself reaching for one of my scandi grind knives. I love everything about my 162 but I cant get used to the convex, does anyone know where or how I can reprofile my 162 to have a scandinavian grind?

Edit: At some point, someone told me my 162 was convex, from what you guys have said so far it is a sabre grind (I have done no reprofiling, the blade has not been altered since manufacture)

Is possible it has a slight convex across the primary grind. You can convert it to a Scandi but will be a ton of work by hand. I'd consider sending it to someone unless you already have something like an XXC DMT. The cost of getting the stones to do the job would be more than the cost of sending it out.

Josh of Razor Edge Knives here on the forum has a solid reputation.

If doing it yourself I'd mentally prepare to do it over a number of sessions rather than all at once. I have done similar by hand but is very slow. Something like the Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder using a Norton Blaze 60 grit belt or even more coarse will get it done quickly but need to be careful of overheating.

It might even be necessary to thin it out from the shoulder to the spine depending on geometry. Then run the primary from shoulder to apex, keeping the original spine to edge distance as close to untouched as possible. It will be weaker for some tasks but perform a lot better for green bushcrafting and EDU.
 
I wouldn't bother with trying to make it a scandi, just reprofile it to 15° per side and micro bevel it at 19°, and it'll be a great performing razor sharp knife. For even greater performance slightly convex the shoulders of the 15° edge
 
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