Recommendation? Reprofiling a karambit on a sharpmaker

[Bo-dacious]

Hey guys, I'm trying to change the angle of a karambit on the work sharp and I'm having a hell of a time.

Im waiting for cbn rods in the mail (anyone know their true grit equivalency? It would really help me out). I decided to do what I heard and wrap the rods in sandpaper. I started where the YouTube user told me at 120 but even at that low grit, it won't fully change the angle. It starts to remove marker from the shoulder and when I finally remove all the marker I think the angle is changed. Is there something else I should be doing? Because the next time I still use that grit or even the next grit the marker is only being removed from the shoulder again and I can't figure out why. Should I keep sharpening at the lowest grit? Will it eventually start removing steel evenly? Is this the reason I'm not cutting paper or is it the next reason?

The other issue is should I be able to go from 400 grit to the medium stone and then the knife should cut paper if I'm doing it right?
If not, can I go from 400 to the cbn rod??
If not, can I go from 600 paper to the cbn? Or should I be doing something else entirely to reprofile an edge?

Your help is much appreciated as I am very frustrated.


Thanks,

Bo

 

[Bo-dacious]

I was thinking of taping round files to the rods for heavy steel removal so they're the exact same angles. I'm not familiar with files so is there grit equivalency I should know about? Do I have to use very fine file or medium? Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Bo

 

[bucketstove]

Hi,
So the spyderco sharpmaker cbn SP204CBN rods/stones are about same grit as diamonds, 400 mesh , or 40 microns or P360 or J400

I started where the YouTube user told me at 120 but even at that low grit, it won't fully change the angle. It starts to remove marker from the shoulder and when I finally remove all the marker I think the angle is changed. Is there something else I should be doing?

1) be more detailed , as excruciatingly detailed as possible
2) do more strokes with the 120 grit sandpaper, like a hundred strokes per side at a time.
do 100 strokes on one side
then do 100 strokes on other side
then apply marker again
apply marker again after every 100 strokes per side.
Stop when you have a burr not when marker is gone.
marker gets gone because you wobble or wipe the marker off.
less wobble comes with deliberate practice
or stop when one single stroke removes all the marker from everywhere (you're not there yet)
if in doubt raise a big big big big big burr do not rely on marker alone.

 

[Bo-dacious]

Okay great. That's a lot of good information, bucket. You're a fountain of knowledge.

Thanks,

Bo