Reprofiling an Izula

riz_aaroni

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Feb 7, 2007
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Hello,

Haven't been on this side of the fence in a while and I thought this was worth starting a thread about. For a while now, past 8 months now, I've been enjoying my Izula and putting it through its paces. Inevitably, I needed to sharpen the knife. I forget how I would have done this the first time, though eventually it would have found its way to the paper wheels (good stuff :D). The angle of the original edge and possibly the slight convexing I may have put on it caused it to be somewhat of a lack luster slicer/cutter.

Queue tonights special. I took the micarta handles off the knife, clamped it to a piece of wood that was in a vice and did the unholy...used a flat bastardo file on it. :grumpy:. Well all was good. I went slow and didn't put that much pressure behind the file. The end result is a flat edge that is steeper aka narrower and MUCH better. Maybe not the best way to go about it, but after the file work and paper wheels again, the edge is fantastic/scary sharp. Love this thing.

Will take some pics of it up close if I can and post them. Pic of the edge. Not the best though it should show it. Could use more work sharpening it and making the edge look a little better. The arrow is where the photo is most in focus and where the edge approximately starts and is pretty flat to the beginning of the tan paint.
5301626923_89b4d6deab_z.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rizaaroni/5301626923/


Does anyone else have the experience that the edge winds up being too wide if you don't draw the beginning of the bevel up?
 
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What do you mean by too wide? On my izzy I've reprofiled to 30 degrees inclusive on the sharpmaker. Now it's stripped and convexed with a mocrobevel of 30 degrees.

That looks like a good edge to me, just needs some stropping.
 
What do you mean by too wide? On my izzy I've reprofiled to 30 degrees inclusive on the sharpmaker. Now it's stripped and convexed with a mocrobevel of 30 degrees.

That looks like a good edge to me, just needs some stropping.

The edge seemed like it was wider than 30 degrees. Could have just been convexed, which isn't my cup of tea or possibly my area of expertise. Could have just been a poor sharpening job before. :(
 
Because you did it freehand it's hard to tell exactly what angles you're putting on the knife. And the more you sharpen the "higher" up the blade your edge will go which will make it seem wider. You could try to knock the shoulders off to thin out the bevel.
 
Because you did it freehand it's hard to tell exactly what angles you're putting on the knife. And the more you sharpen the "higher" up the blade your edge will go which will make it seem wider. You could try to knock the shoulders off to thin out the bevel.

I ground the shoulders down and was able to thin the edge. I messed around today and was cutting some pieces of 2x4s up and the knife cuts deeper and seems to cut better now. My RC4 is the same way and I'm tempted to give it the same treatment.
 
Definitely seems to. I took a look at my RC4, which I don't use all too much admittedly, and I remembered I reprofiled it a while a go using the paper wheels. Probably easier with the file but it is still good. Have a flatter, more acute edge and a mirror finish.:D
 
From the photo it is hard to determine scale.

Sounds like you took the shoulders off.

It is fairly common practice to create a thin or shallow primary bevel then put on a steeper secondary (edge) bevel. Or just go with a convex bevel.

There are many ways to change the edge and improve performance, but remember that your definition of performance and another person's might differ significantly. If you have the means, taking some measurements can be helpful if you are really wanting to get the most from your knives. Take measurements and/or calculate angles and keep notes on how the edge performs...what it does well, and how it fails. If you do this you are well on your way to achieving reproducible results, and being a big ole geek;)
 
From the photo it is hard to determine scale.

Sounds like you took the shoulders off.

It is fairly common practice to create a thin or shallow primary bevel then put on a steeper secondary (edge) bevel. Or just go with a convex bevel.

There are many ways to change the edge and improve performance, but remember that your definition of performance and another person's might differ significantly. If you have the means, taking some measurements can be helpful if you are really wanting to get the most from your knives. Take measurements and/or calculate angles and keep notes on how the edge performs...what it does well, and how it fails. If you do this you are well on your way to achieving reproducible results, and being a big ole geek;)

Lol, the last part could be good. I may have the ability to measure the edge accurately. Makes sense to know what it is set out for reproducing it.
 
Lol, the last part could be good. I may have the ability to measure the edge accurately. Makes sense to know what it is set out for reproducing it.

Yeah, a precision micrometer is nice, or (if you can find one) some companies make angle edge guides like this...it actually works pretty well (plus minus a few degrees) if you can get good lighting and a keen eye....

img1689y.jpg
 
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