reprofiling combinations

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I had a look around and couldn't find a similar thread, though feel free to merge or delete if I have overlooked.

One advantage of traditional knives is the typical multiblade combination - different blade shapes, which also opens up hte possibility of different edge reprofiles on one knife.
I have a new #81 GEC Stockman, and I thought, since I have three very large and very different blades on one knife, I might try a combination of different profiles for each blade. The main will be a standard 30° reprofile, which will be the most often used EDC blade. I think I will try and get the sheepsfoot to just 20°, to make it a razor. What practical use is for me? I don't know :rolleyes: but it might somehow be useful. On the spey blade I might try my first ever convex reprofile - that way I have a blade that will be easy to resharpen anywhere. I guess there is no real practical need for all these specialized blades, but looking at the amount of blade real estate on this big stockman knife, it is an irresistable temptation for a knifeknut to tinker with.

what reprofiling combinations do others experiment with? have there been any historical reprofile combinations that have been popular?
 
With most of my traditional knives, I re-bevel the edges to something around 12-13 degrees per side. Then I can easily and quickly use a Sharpmaker to touch them up at 15 degrees per side for years without having to do anymore re-beveling for a LONG time. With some knives I want to keep the thicker factory edges, so I sharpen then by hand on a diamond or Arkansas hone, usually close to the factory angle.
 
I usually go with a 20 degree bevel (40 inclusive) on all the blades in my folders, unless the factory bevel is more acute than that, in which case I'll go with 15 degrees (30 inclusive). I use those two because that's what the Sharpmaker has available. I try to stay close to the factory bevel unless it is just miserable or mismatched, in which case I'll reprofile to whichever of those two angles it is closest to.

For my daily cutting chores the 20 degree bevel is sufficient. I tend to randomly use whichever blade's nail nick is facing me unless the task requires a particular blade shape. I don't have a lot of complex cutting needs in my daily routine so it usually doesn't matter.

I tend to carry Stockman patterns just because I like them, not necessarily because I need that many blades. I could probably get by just fine with a single clip or spear blade for pretty much everything, but that's boring. ;)
 
I have just done the the same thing with my #81! Took the main down to 30 degrees inclusive and then finish the edge with fine stone to 40. The sheepsfoot is finished to 30. I also plan on convexing the spey to obtain a very thin edge but haven't taken the time yet. The grinds on this knife are very thin to begin with so these improvements were easy to make and cutting ability is high. Great knife overall.
 
I have just done the the same thing with my #81! Took the main down to 30 degrees inclusive and then finish the edge with fine stone to 40. The sheepsfoot is finished to 30. I also plan on convexing the spey to obtain a very thin edge but haven't taken the time yet. The grinds on this knife are very thin to begin with so these improvements were easy to make and cutting ability is high. Great knife overall.

exactly, this will be great to experiment with, glad I'm not the only one thinking this way.
 
I've been carrying a Queen Canoe for the past few months. While the blade shapes appear to be the same when viewed from the side, the cutting profiles are quite different, and I have enhanced that difference by setting different edge bevels on the two blades.

The main blade is a thick spear, and I have thinned out most of the bevel to 15° per side, but have put the final edge on at 20° per side. This makes for a very robust blade which allows me to perform heavy cuts with no fear of deforming the edge.

The pen blade is very thin and I have put a straight 15° per side bevel on it. Slices like a demon.

The combination of edge bevels and blade thicknesses has been an eye opening experience for me. I would never have expected a knife with two similarly shaped blades to be so versatile.



 
I was going to get exactly the same knife for my father, and do a similar reprofile, he used up the blades on the leatherman I gave him and I thought the Queen D2 might be a classy but tough knife that he wouldn't finish off too quickly. For reasons I've forgotten, I went with a #68 gec instead.
 
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