Reprofiling CPM S110V

B

Bob6794

Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
2,032
I just got in my Spyderco Mule Team 18 S110V knife, it's sharp but not as sharp as I have gotten some of my other knives and I think I can take it up another small notch. I am currently using my DMT Aligner while reprofiling and I currently have the C/F/EF stones so I am curious as to how much of a work load that will be to reprofile it using what I have at my disposal.

The hardest knife I had reprofiled to this point is a jeep rescue knife in 440 steel, so I assume that was 440a and that was a bit thicker than this and substancially thicker than the traditional knives I usually work with. Most knives I've been working with up to this point have been 440a, SAK steel, or carbon steel. So how big of a difference is this jump going to be? I am asking because I am debating on the need of buying an EC stone, but more than likely this may be the only high wear resistant knife I have for a very long time as I don't see anything else that really catches my interest that has anything remotely close to this in terms of blade steel. And unfortunately I will probably be taking this to the lowest setting on my DMT Aligner as I have learned to love that setting which means more steel removal.
 
If it sharpens anything like S90V you are in for a real shock time wise when compared to SAK, Opinel or Mora's steel.
 
I've heard of people refer to it as S90V on steroids on a few occasions. So I guess that means I should have some time cleared for the day I reprofile it.
 
The DMT hones you have will do just fine. Just remember to use light pressure and let the diamonds do the cutting. Using too much pressure could dislodge the diamonds.
.
 
blame it on god said:
The DMT hones you have will do just fine. Just remember to use light pressure and let the diamonds do the cutting. Using too much pressure could dislodge the diamonds.
.
Click to expand...

Excellent advice.

I expect to have 3-4 hours invested in mine before it meets my specifications. On the Edge-Pro, I'll start with DMT XC, and work through to Shapton 30K. Then on to the Kangaroo strops down to .1 micron.

You sharpen it the same way as any other steel, you just work quite a bit longer on each stone.
 
The MT18 has a relatively thin edge so there is less metal to be removed in reprofiling. I read that someone else spent 10 minutes reprofiling theirs to 15 degrees per side.
 
Yeah it definitely has a thin edge compared to what I expected, in fact I didn't realize how thin till you pointed that out. I am now actually wondering if it will take longer to reprofile than that 440(a?) rescue knife I mentioned earlier as the edge on that looks like an axe head in comparison. So my worry about reprofiling it has for the most part been tamed, especially since I think I will finish on the fine grit to leave a slight toothy edge in hopes it works better for cardboard cutting duty like my other knives so working through the 2 grits will probably be quick. But for now I think I try to dull this thing before taking on this task, unfortunately I ran out of cardboard earlier and it had effect on this knife despite cutting it all into little pieces :D. Definitely a different beast in comparison to what I am used to.
 
Ben Dover said:
Excellent advice.

I expect to have 3-4 hours invested in mine before it meets my specifications. On the Edge-Pro, I'll start with DMT XC, and work through to Shapton 30K. Then on to the Kangaroo strops down to .1 micron.

You sharpen it the same way as any other steel, you just work quite a bit longer on each stone.
Click to expand...


Gonna dope the shaptons?
I would starting around the 8k ish.
 
Sadden - Fancy meeting you here!

So what's the real story? I've heard so many folks stopping at an unrefined edge 'because carbides'. You know I want to bring my new Manix2 to 0.1u! Is that indeed counterproductive?

Cheers,

Rick
 
Not at all , you just need the technology to do so, diamonds or CBN. Atomas are a good start , then you can swap over to shaptons and dope em with CBN , or you can go with diamond films (be sure to have lots of overlap between Atomas and any other stones , they cut DEEP) Once you've gone as far as you can with shaptons you can swap over to strops with CBN/Diamond, Kens films will get you all the way to 0.1u.

Most people just don't have the technology to handle these super duper steels , so once they go as far as they can with their DMTs' or whatever that's where they stop :P
 
I bought some congress moldmasters and glued them to some EP blanks. Those are the workhorses when I deal with s110v, K390, etc. I find them pretty affordable ( moreso than my shaptons at least) and worth having in your kit.
 
My Worksharp makes quick work out of steels like Elmax, D2, and M390. It barely made a mark on S110V. That steel is just a little easier to work than Ceramic.
 
I reprofiled & sharpened my S110V Forum Native 5 in about 10 to 15 minutes with a standard Paper Wheel coated with 220 grit SiC & wax.
Compared to doing the same to a good quality ceramic knife it felt like holding a banana to the coarse belt of a high speed belt grinder.
 
Last edited:
Sadden<> I've got the gear to put on any angle and finish I choose. But I've heard so many varying opinions from respected authorities and pseudo-scientists alike.

Cheers,

Rick
 
I had no trouble with mine. Supposedly, S110V is optimal at Rc 63-64. (According to Crucible) Sal chose to HT these mules to only 60-61.:confused:

I don't know why, but it was certainly easy to sharpen. It will be interesting to see how it holds up to camp chores this summer.:cool:
 
Strangely enough I still haven't bothered to reprofile that knife, I dulled it down slightly and than I just decided to strop it to bring back it's edge which took awhile.

Took me forever to dull the S110V slightly but it also dispelled the "mystic" properties of supersteels I had around them once I did manage to start dulling it and it finally clicked it was just another steel and nothing super special. Definitely had to pay the piper when it came to stropping in comparison to every other steel I've handled, took several times longer to get the same results due to the abrasion resistance of the steel.

Good knife and steel but it doesn't suit my needs very well unfortunately. So I probably end up getting rid of it, though if I end up keeping it I probably end up picking up some diamond paste compound to make life a bit easier.
 
I have read elsewhere that the S110V in the Mule isn't anywhere near the hardness of the Manix. I'm hearing the Manix is in that magical 64ish range. That would do two things. 1) Make the Mule much easier to sharpen, and 2) Make it not truly represent what S110V is really capable of. Can anyone that has both comment? I'm curious because I have the S110V Manix enrt. I will put a Wicked Edge on mine 15 dps down to .5 on paste and strops. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top