Reprofiling D2

[EliasAJ]

Hi, I'm new to the whole knife addiction. And I had a question about reprofiling a hard steel (D2). From the factory, it is around a 40-50 degree grind. I would like to bring it down to a 18 degree. But I did not know whether I should just go straight from 40 degrees to 18 degrees, or should I bring it down in increments? From 40 to 30, 30 to 25, 25 to 18. I'm new and need some help. Any response would be appreciated.

-Elias

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

D2 at 18* inclusive would be chippy for any other cutting tasks beside hair related. My inlaw used mine BM pardue D2 with 20* to cut a lot of palm fronds - got a few 2mm chips from that. 30* seem most stable for me, given that D2 has large carbide grain.

Just directly grind your knife to 30* from factory. Initially your grinding will hit the shoulder, progressing to wider contact area/bevel. Expect progress to be slower toward the end, since more surface area to grind... be patience. Work on 1 side until almost burring up; do the other side until barely burr the whole edge; switch to the first side; barely burr the whole edge. Progressing to finer grits. Sharpen > enjoy!

 

[Ben Dover]

Hi, I'm new to the whole knife addiction. And I had a question about reprofiling a hard steel (D2). From the factory, it is around a 40-50 degree grind. I would like to bring it down to a 18 degree. But I did not know whether I should just go straight from 40 degrees to 18 degrees, or should I bring it down in increments? From 40 to 30, 30 to 25, 25 to 18. I'm new and need some help. Any response would be appreciated.
-Elias

D-2 really isn't that difficult to re-bevel.

When you write 40-50 degrees, I assume you mean inclusive (20-25 degrees per side)

Is so, re-bevel in one step. But 18 inclusive (9 per side) is a bit much IMHO for D-2. I think you would be much better served at 30 degrees inclusive. i.e. 15 degrees per side. At least, that has been my experience with D-2.

Good luck,

Ben

 

[fsatsil]

IMO doing it in one shot is the way to go butI also agree with the others that 18 degrees is to thin for d2 and a lot of other steels for that matter unless they are only going to cut paper. As for D2 not being difficult to reprofile, that may be true if you have years of sharpening under your belt but I think a beginner may find it a bit challenging especially if they are working free hand. Just be patient and don't rush and you should be alright. Good Luck

 

[Ben Dover]

As for D2 not being difficult to reprofile, that may be true if you have years of sharpening under your belt but I think a beginner may find it a bit challenging especially if they are working free hand.

What I meant was that D-2 is relatively easy to re-profile when compared to modern high-tech steels. Certainly it's more work than A-2 or O-1.

 

[Magnaminous_G]

or you could go with a thinner primary bevel (but more than 18...), maybe 24 or so and then add a 30 micro bevel. That's what I did with my CPM-D2 primary EDC blade.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Hi, I'm new to the whole knife addiction. And I had a question about reprofiling a hard steel (D2). From the factory, it is around a 40-50 degree grind. I would like to bring it down to a 18 degree. But I did not know whether I should just go straight from 40 degrees to 18 degrees, or should I bring it down in increments? From 40 to 30, 30 to 25, 25 to 18. I'm new and need some help. Any response would be appreciated.

-Elias

As others have mentioned, 18° inclusive is a bit thin. Whichever angle you choose for the new bevels, keep in mind the going gets exponentially slower with a bigger reduction in edge angle. Going from 50° inclusive to something like 30° thumbup or less wiil require a LOT of steel removal. That's a pretty slow process with most steels, and more so with D2. A bench-sized diamond hone in Coarse/Extra-Coarse would be your best friend, for that task, assuming you're not experienced with belt grinders or similar powered tools. Keep the hone lubricated (water, water + dish soap, or mineral oil works well), to keep swarf from clogging it, and slowing the progress even further.

Other hones in silicon carbide or aluminum oxide can work pretty well for maintenance/touch-up sharpening, after the new bevels are in place. But, for heavy re-shaping of the edge grind, I do strongly recommend a larger diamond hone.


David

 

[EliasAJ]

Thanks, a mini- griptilian in D2 is actually what I'm sharpening. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and I will try it!