reprofiling with pull through knife

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Jan 13, 2013
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I may get catch some flack for this but I am new to sharpening so please be easy on me. I have a sharpmaker with the diamond stones ultra fines and a strop from knives town. Im getting some awesome results with softer steels and knifes that are already sharp. My rodent 3 just showed up from swamp rat and it is butter knife dull I used a sharpie to check the edge and its not on a 40 degree so it needs to be repofiled. I tried to use the diamond stones but I don't there going to be enough alot of people have said to use free hand stones and belt sanders but I do not have the skill for that so would it be a bad thing to use a pull through sharpener just as a first step?
 
What kind of pull through? Are you sure the pull through will cut at 40 (inclusive) ?

You mentioned a butter knife. I'd try it on one of those first and see what kind of results you get. Not a high wear resistant steel, but it may give you some idea of what to expect.
 
The danger with the carbide scraper pull-throughs (specifically) is, it's possible to actually tear/rip the steel to some depth behind the cutting edge. The carbide scrapers work more or less like a pair of scissors, if you were to pull a piece of paper card stock (a recipe card, for instance) through them in a similar manner. They will grab, pinch and rip the card. Same thing will happen with a knife edge, if not extremely careful. If this happens, the only way to fix it is to remove that damaged steel behind the cutting edge (overkill). If you go extremely light with pressure, the risk of severe damage decreases. BUT, if going that light, you're not likely to save any time anyway.

If you want to put a clean, new bevel on a blade, a very inexpensive way to do it would be to use a DMT Aligner guide/clamp (about $10 - $15), and some wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper (about $1 per sheet) on a hard backing like glass, hardwood, etc. The guide will ensure a clean and precise bevel, and the SiC sandpaper will work pretty quickly. Something like 220-400 grit will be a good starting grit. The guide can also be used with any other bench hone.


David
 
Home depot sells a small Norton stone for about $5 that works really well to sharpen the SR101 steel. Because of the ways that the abrasive interacts with the steel it will do better than the diamond or ceramic and do it quickly.

You can lean it against the SM rods or use it freehand, I would finish the rodent on the fine side and strop with some compound for burr removal. You will be shocked at how sharp it will get with that stone.
 
The pull through sharpeners can be effective for touching up an edge, but you need a VERY light touch and the angle of the sharpener has to match that of the blade. I've never tried to use one with better steels, but I doubt it would work well. They are not suitable for re-profilling even with soft steels. The heavier pressure that you need just tears up the edge.

OWE & knifenut's suggestions are probably the most cost effective ways to achieve re-profiling with good steel.

JMHO,
Allen
 
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