Request: Can somebody please post pics holding the 12" and 15"

EDCguy

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It would really be cool if somebody could post pics holding a 12" or 15" ang khola khukri. I'd like to get this at some point but the measurments on HI.com are the overall legths of the knives. A saw Noss4's destruction test of the ang khola 12" on youtube and it looked kinda small. But he's a big guy and he was wearing big gloves. I have smaller hands.

If no pics, can you at least tell me the benifits of 3 more inches? Is it worth the extra $35? Any help is appreciated.
 
It would really be cool if somebody could post pics holding a 12" or 15" ang khola khukri. I'd like to get this at some point but the measurments on HI.com are the overall legths of the knives. A saw Noss4's destruction test of the ang khola 12" on youtube and it looked kinda small. But he's a big guy and he was wearing big gloves. I have smaller hands.

If no pics, can you at least tell me the benifits of 3 more inches? Is it worth the extra $35? Any help is appreciated.

yeah lol i watched that test...the nincompoop said the knife was slipping in his hands....its because of those silly gloves....hahah


but yes please everyone post!:cool:
 
If I were you I would just get this Chiruwa Ang Khola from the Deals of the Day from 2/4:
13 inch 18 ounce chiruwa Ang Khola by Dil Kami. Satisal wood handle. Great value at $85.

Amazing price for a great little knife, and it would last better in the handle tests that Noss4 threw at that smaller one. Or if you like them bigger and with thicker spine, get the 16.5" chiruwa AK from the shopping site for double the money (I love mine!). If you have serious chopping in your future I would go bigger than 12" small hands or not, at least 4-6" longer overall.

Alex
 
If no pics, can you at least tell me the benifits of 3 more inches? Is it worth the extra $35? Any help is appreciated.

It isn't just 3" longer - there is a reasonable weight difference too. I would say that the bigger AK would chop bigger wood a lot easier.
 
16.5in seems like it would be a little too heavy for what I plan on using it for. I want a khukri for a using up in the boudary waters of Minnesota. In the BW, you have to carry alot of weight on the portages.

It seems like that extra inch and a half wouldn't be worth it. I don't know how heavy these things get, but at 3/8" spine I imagine pretty hefty. That's also why I'd like a size comparison, because of the weight difference.

Also, do any of you use the sheaths on your outings that HI provides with the knife? From noss's video, they looked pretty tough. Just woundering if it's cumbersome.
 
A 12" AK is going to give about 8" of blade, a 15" AK will give about 11.5" of blade.

I don't know for sure -- I don't have any that small.

The stock kukri sheaths are usually done very well and are plenty tough. Some are a little too tight and it can be hard to get the blade out, some may be a little loose, but most are more than usable. You can use them as-is (best if worn on a heavy belt like a pistol belt or tool belt, rather than your pants belt), or get a baldric like the Sharpshooter baldric on KnivesShipFree.com, I even used a rifle sling as a baldric until I had a custom one made.
 
I have a 12" AK but no larger AK to compare it to. I really wouldn't count on chopping anything bigger than about 2.5" with a 12" AK.
 
The 12" family of khuks are kinda like bent Ka-Bars. They are more utility driven blades that excel in being portable, maneuverable, and will out chop pretty much any similarly sized western combat/survival knife. I keep a 13" AK in my jeep for an emergency crash axe/hatchet. It has enough heft to cut things out of the way if I find myself in an overly deep ditch and could (with a lot of effort on my part) pierce the rather thin steel body.

You get about 8.5" of blade on that one and about 4.5" of handle. Like HD said, 2.5" or less would be what I would consider to chop with a smaller AK. You just don't have enough mass to make the blade shape as effective as the bigger members of the family.

You might send Yangdu and email stating what size of wood you are looking to chop as well as what kind of weight you want. She is more than happy to pick you out something that fits your needs:)

Personally, I like leverage and long handles when I'm going to be chopping at odd angles. However, I have medium sized mitts so the really big and fat beasts need quite a bit of handle modding to fit my grip. One of my favorite "out of the box" khuks is my 18" WWII. Lots of blade to swing but more wasp waisted and a lil lighter than an 18" AK. Plus it had a slimmer grip. If you want one that is a little more compact, the 16.5" WWII is a real winner.

I handled one that an ex-coworker bought for his younger brother, and I can see why our late cherished friend and moderator Rusty found the 16.5 variation to be just "magic".

Food for thought;)
 
Don't know what kind of chopping you're planning on, but if you anticipate mainly waterlogged wood, I'd probably recommend a longer, narrower, lighter style of khukuri. In my experience with wet wood, a thin edge and a lot of velocity are key. An 18" Chitlangi will weigh pretty much the same as a 15" AK, but is a little thinner and has an extra 3", to get a little more speed at the sweet spot. On dry wood, a 15" AK would pack a little more power and be easier to maneuver.

Also, the scabbards are quite tough and well made, in my experience. The only reason to get an aftermarket one would be concealed carry. ;)

And I can take a photo of me with several sizes of knives when I get home, if you want. I'm about 5'8", with average sized hands.
 
I want a khukri for a using up in the boudary waters of Minnesota. In the BW, you have to carry alot of weight on the portages.

What, precisely would you be using it for? General camp duties like light chopping, batoning/splitting, food prep, etc? If so, a 12" would do the trick nicely while still being very packable. If your chores will be leaning more towards brush clearing and heavier chopping, the 15" might just be a better bet. IMO, one of the best khuks for light/med work is actually my 14" BDC. In a side by side chopping comparison, it held it's own really well against my 18" M-43 (like a chainsaw), 16.5" WWII and 15" BGRS. It also has a comparatively thin edge and thusly takes an extremely sharp edge as well. You might want to check those out as well.

In hand shot:
BDC09.jpg
 
Nope, I think that will do. That looks perfect. Does the sheath point ever tear holes in pants or back packs? That's my only other issue.
 
Just for fun, I got some comparison pics anyway.

size.jpg


Top: 12" Ka-Bar (old and with no handle) and 15" Sirupati
Bottom: 18.5" Chainpuri and 21.5" Chitlangi

AKs would be much broader than all of the above, of course.

And just for even more fun, this is a pic of my EDC. ;)
serbuandgiant.jpg


The sheath ends tend to be rather pointy, and would wear a hole in a pack in short order, if they touched it from the inside. They used to be genuinely sharp years ago, which probably tells you something about Nepali mentality. If you lose the khukuri, you can still stab someone with the karda. If you lose that, every chakma I've had has been pointy enough to stab with. And if you lose that, you could stab them with the scabbard!

Anyway, cutting a hole in an old tennis ball and sticking the end of the sheath in is one solution. You could also use boiling water to just remove the metal part. Rags and duct tape are perfectly servicable as well. ;) And if you ever special-order one, I'm sure you could ask to have the sarki put a small brass ball on the end of the scabbard.
 
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The sheath ends tend to be rather pointy, and would wear a hole in a pack in short order, if they touched it from the inside.

Amen to THAT; I managed to (slightly) damage a scarf last night, experimenting with sheath carry.
 
Ryan: My roommate took one look at your shotgun and smiled approvingly. :D

To Edcguy: I put the 15 inch sheathed kukri upside down in the backpack so the brass tip doesn't poke holes in the backpack. If I didn't live in the land of the blissninnies, would just clip it on the belt and wear it like its a piece of regular wardrobe. :D

My jeans [wranglers] have large enough pockets to fit in a 9 inch overall size sheathed khukuri in them, and worn the same way, upside down.. So far there's no holes in them.
:p

The tip can be taken off or comes off sometimes by itself. Like others said, some tape over it or file off the sharp edge... I kinda like the pointy sheath. :p
 
Nope, I think that will do. That looks perfect. Does the sheath point ever tear holes in pants or back packs? That's my only other issue.

Good thinking!:thumbup: :cool: :D There are so many other khukuris that can get the job done that are way too often forgotten.
The AK is indeed HI's workhorse but isn't necessarily the end all of end all HI khukuri's as so many others can get the tasks at hand done much more efficiently with less effort. Why else have so many to choose from? ;) :D

As to the sharp brass or white metal chape problem it seems that one of the guys here, think it was Kronckew, came up with a quite easy fix. He uses the little round bells most commonly found around Christmas, carefully removes the ball inside, and then JB Welds the outside piece to the point of the chape using the opening that was created by removing the ball inside thereby creating a pretty durable and somewhat permanent fix.:thumbup: :cool: :D



.
 
Gee it's so nice to be right once in a while.:thumbup: :cool: :D ;)
Wayne seeing as how the JB Weld is a bit runny how do/did you manage to keep the outside of the jingle bell still on the chape while waiting for it too set up? :confused:



.
 
well, not having JB Weld, i used Araldite Plastic Steel - a two part epoxy with powdered steel, which i assume is similar. it was viscous enough to not run (it's advertised as 'gap filling'). it started setting fairly fast; the bit that extruded out when i joined the bell to the chape i wiped off with paper towels while it was still fluid. i seem to recall i held the bell on by hand till it started curing, then propped the scabbard up to keep it vertical while it cured. it took a bit of trial and error.

i have also seen a two part solid epoxy putty 'stick' used for spot repairs on pipes and joints where you cut off a section (it's about 3/4in. thick), and then knead it for a time to mix the outer layer of hardener into the central core putty. it comes out copper colored, i guess you could roll it into a ball, and impale it on the end of the chape. haven't tried that tho - not sure how it would hold up. not seen the copper colored version recently tho, the ones i've seen recently are gray color.

the bells are still in place a few years on now, tho i've never dropped the scabbards on the end or banged it into anything harder than me.
 
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