Required reading for those who make big blades

T

the possum

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Jul 31, 2002
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I'm not sure how many of you here have heard these ideas, so I thought I'd post this link.

why big blades behave the way they do

Get ready to do lots of thinking and reading! I have often pondered why one knife seems to cut better than another one, and why some perform much better than I'd expect from handling them. When I read this article, it all clicked. Of course! It perfectly explains everything I was experiencing. Why my big Bowie used to be so awesome at tip cuts, and why it now bounces off small twigs! (I broke 3" off the tip and reground it)

I will state right now that I disagree with the author's stance on draw cutting, but for different reasons than he mentioned. I'm also not ready to dismiss the whole "harmonics" issue, only because there are a lot of very knowledgeable people and makers who swear it works. Though the article is geared toward swords, it still holds true for any knife meant to chop or slash or whatever. My knife is proof.

Please let me know what you guys think about these ideas. I'd love to learn more.
 
Well here is how I and the kenjutsu practitioners in my school study. Just some more/different info to pick from...

The cutting rules typically fall upon the ideal of curve and furthermore WEIGHT. We do not "draw-cut" in most cuts, except those that force grappling situations, which kinda forces you to. Anyway, a downward cut for example, is executed like casting a fishing line, it is essentially "dropped", like an axe almost. The technique is deceptively difficult and seemingly awkward at first. But when you get the hang of it, the answers will come to you better. The technique is fundamental and designed to use both the natural curve of the Japanese sword and weight to kill, not raw stength. 2 or 3 pounds of sharp steel doesn't need to be swung like a baseball bat to kill. A relatively small, well placed gash will take a life, just as effectively as rolling heads. All that matters, is the cut.

My .02.
 
Wait a minute, here. I can't believe this post hasn't generated more interest.

Understanding these cocepts could easily mean taking your blades to the next performance level. Like I said, when I read that article, it was like the wool being lifted from my eyes. It makes sense. It neatly sums up what I've been noticing and pondering about for many years.

Now, I had a subsription to Blade magazine for about ten years. I got Knives Illustrated on and off during that same time frame. I have read a sizeable pile of books about knives and swords. I have spoken with many makers, and have been a knifemaker myself for 10 years. And yet, I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS INFORMATION BEFORE ANYWHERE! It's like it is one of those lost secrets of blade performance. Maybe I'd have gotten more interest if I'd titled my post "Secrets of performance revealed", or something like that. In fact, I may do so yet.

Does no one here care about this? Do they think it does not apply to smaller blades like Bowies, choppers, and camp knives? Or do they already know all about it? Or do they think these ideas are so crazy it's not worth their time? I may well be wrong about this, and that's why I was hoping to hear opinions of some true professionals here. Waiting........
 
Epsilon-
I will not disagree with anything you wrote, especially since you're talking about a blade that's curved. If you care to hear my ideas about "draw cutting", it just so happens I've started that very discussion over at Sword Forum.

draw cutting
 
Not sure if I understand it, but it is definatly interesting reading.

While I have considered many of the whys and hows, this article seems to explain how to properly balance a sword, Though I think most makers do this instinctivly provided they test the finished product to see how well it feels in the hand and flows through certain movements.

Definatly something to think about, thanks
 
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