Rescuing old oil stones

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bknorr1

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Feb 17, 2013
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I have a Norton triangular three grit oil stone well over 60 years old. The individual stones measure 12X2.75 inches. For the past few years the oil in the reservoir has been motor oil. It is so messy that I hate to use it. I would really like to convert them to water stones but know that is not feasible. Is there any reason not to just empty the reservoir of oil and wipe the stones dry? Any suggestions for a very light lubricant to prevent filling the stones with metal particles? I want to learn free hand sharpening. Thanks. Bill
 
Using straight water on a seasoned oil stone can cause a glazing problem. A mix of water and dish soap(degreaser) will work as a lubricant in this case and will clean out the oil over time. Are the stones glued to a plastic base? and if so, can you easily remove them? If you can, you can boil the stones, or send them through the dish washer, or soak them in lacquer thinner. I'm just not sure how the plastic will take those treatments.
 
Thanks for responding. The stones are fixed in place via triangular edge clamps and can be easily removed for boiling. After that, what would be recommended to be used for lubricant? Would soapy water suffice, or is there a very light oil that would work? A video showed WD40 being used. Alternatives? And thanks for your help.
 
Water, even with some soap in it does not work well. A light oil is best and will allow the stone to function properly, I prefer WD-40.
 
I would clean the stones, let dry and then us Norton Honing Oil, I bought some at Home Depot but you can find it online as well. I would let them soak in water and Dawn dish washing detergent and clean all the old oil and gunk off of them, let them dry then use the Norton Honing oil on the side you are using or you can put it in the oil tank of your sharpening system.
 
I like to scrub mine with hot, soapy water and towel them dry. It's the same as cleaning greasy hands :) Water as hot as you can stand, some kind of degreaser and a fingernail scrub brush. Repeat until degreased to your satisfaction. As for sharpening, I like plain old tapwater with a rise in the sink every so often...I've heard some people like to use Simple Green cleaner, but I have never tried it. Hope this helps.
 
You can probably remove the motor oil with gasoline, but don't do it in the house. Paint thinner might work also. You want to fill the trough in your sharpener (to the line) with USP (food grade) mineral oil. You can get this at the pharmacy or the butcher supply.
When you use the rig, squeegee the oil off the top stone with a rubber kitchen spatula. This reduces the mess considerably. Wipe the blade when switching stones so you don't contaminate a finer stone with coarser grit.
Grind on one side until a burr is raised. Then sharpen the other side the same way. Count the strokes on each side of the blade to keep your edge centered. Once your tapers extend all the way to the microedge on the coarsest stone, all you have to do is shine up the tapers on sucessively finer stones.
 
bknorr, I have the exact Norton 313 sharpening system. They are not cheap should you have to replace it ($200). So, it's worth maintaining. Simply remove the stones and level them, should they need it. Scraping them on concrete and water, then clean them using lacquer thinner or paint thinner and a wire brush, wiping the residual. Install them and don't fill the reservoir with oil. Put 6-8 drops of mineral oil on the stone you'll use to sharpen with and afterward wipe clean. Here is mine it is a early 80's model and came housed in a all metal box. DM
 
Yours may have the side clamps and removal plastic lid yet, it's the same Norton system. It normally comes with a coarse 100 grit crystolon, a med. 190 grit crystolon and a fine India 320 grit stone. This system is all you'll need to produce a hair shaving edge. A strop w/ slurry will take it finer should you want it. Plus, it is large enough to handle blades from a 2" whittling to an 8" carving knife. Happy sharpening. DM
 
Thanks to all for your suggestions. David, your system is beautiful, mine doesn't look quite like that - yet. This sharpening system was given to me in 1963 by a retired cabinet maker with a terminal illness. I have carried it with me through multiple moves, but used it very little and am not proficient. It does have the side clamps for the stones. I am glad to know that it is possible to restore these stones to good working order, and that any limitation to my sharpening will be due to my ability and not the capability of this system. Thanks again. Bill
 
Your welcome. Mine could be earlier as the Meat cutter I purchased it from did custom processing from 1981 to 2006 (25yrs.). He thought he bought it new the year he opened. I was thinking it could be from the 70's. It took me sometime to repair the dents, sand off the rust, repaint it with 3 coats (first coat a rustoleum primer) then purchase all new stones for it. Yet, I really enjoy sharpening on it. The large stones are a joy to use. I purchased some different stones for mine; going with a 100 grit coarse crystolon, 220 grit fine crystolon and the 320 grit fine India. Then on one side of the India stone sanded it finer to more like a 600 grit. This allows me all the grits I could ever want in one tool box system. Good luck, DM
 
If you disassemble the triangular prism, there is a little trick to getting it back together. Pull all three stones tight to the center with broccoli rubber bands. Then add the metal straps and tighten the screws.
 
You can check MrEdgy81 channel on youtube for sharpening with Norton, read the stickies here for sharpening tips. Good luck in the very (if not most) rewarding adventure of freehand sharpening.
 
I work in a food processing factory so most chemicals that I have access to are food safe. Yesterday I grabbed some thick white grease for some bearings. I looked at the label and it's made primarily of usp mineral oil and petroleum jelly. The stuff is thick and very smooth. I'll be using it to impregnate any stones that I buy in the future that are porous and are used with oil. ;)

Btw, we have one of those exact sharpeners in the maintenance shop. Great kit.
 
Bill, My stones and the replacement stones for the 313 one can purchase today are 11.5"X 2.5". I didn't know Norton made a different size stone for that model. DM
 
David, you are correct. My stones measure 11.5"X2.5" also. Those prior measurements were just approximations to indicate the general size of the rig. Mine is a little more basic appearing than yours. The lid is not hinged. It is, however, a model 313 imprinted on the lid. I have it all cleaned up now, but it is not worthy of a picture. Thanks to all for your suggestions on cleaning the stones and information on free hand sharpening. I removed the stones, boiled them with dish washing liquid, and scrubbed repeatedly with a stiff brush. They cleaned up nicely and have no suggestion of any glazing. I thought I was up the creek on reassembling the stones in the holder, but divine intervention bailed me out. Thus far I have used WD40 for lubricant and I like it. I have watched MrEdgy81 videos as well as Carter's and others. I am struck by their smooth coordinated hand movements. Carter in particular is so smooth he makes me think of a magician working with cards or coins. Thus far on old knives I have no trouble raising a burr, but the other half of the battle is elusive. It is fun learning, though. Bill
 
Bill, Great! Your welcome. I'm glad someone came to your aid and your 313 is back together, in working order with clean stones. You'll get it just keep working at it. Then you'll have even more appreciation for your system as it's a jewel. Good sharpening, DM
 
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