Resin handle peeling from tang

V

VyndycTyv

Joined
May 28, 2020
Messages
5
I am new to forums, sorry if I am breaking any rules or if something has been already posted about this. I also do not know how to include a photo.

On to the question:

So, I have noticed that when i make a resin handle on knives that I make, there is somerimes peeling that occurs near the choil or front end of the scale. This is prior to any use of the knife. I also dont identify the occurance until after i have the handle profiled and near finished.

I always make sure that my tang has been degreased, the handles have been degreased, I always use gloves and make sure to never contaminate my glue up surfaces. I use devcon epoxy and the scales are pinned(which are also degreased and epoxied) i typically used crud cutter or acetone and have the same issue with both solvents.

I am curious if maybe i am generating too much heat when profiling the handle and causing the resin to warp due to heat, or if maybe when i clean up the squeeze out if the acetone I am using is penetrating into the tang and not allowing for a permanent bond.

I would also like to mention that the scales I am using are custom made by me and have used a couple different brands and have the same issue.

I do my best to make sure all surfaces are as flat as possible before mating.

This really has me stumped and any assistance or guidance would be greatly appreciated!
 
Couple of things come to mind. One- your resin is bowing as it continues to cure or is reacting to heat generated buy shaping. Two- over tightening clamps during glue up could be stressing them and causing them to lift. Over tightened Corbys can also do this, particularly if you hollow out your tangs prior to tapering.
 
The main causes:
Over-clamping - Clamps should be just snug enough to hold the scales in place while the resin dries. Use the smallest spring clamp that will fit over your handle.
Over torqueing Corby and similar bolts can also cause the problem. Snug them down just past finger tight. After teh handle has sat for 15 minutes ( using slow cure resin) check them and snug more if needed.
Too much clean up and too soon. - Use alcohol to clean up uncured epoxy. Acetone is for cured resin. Use sparingly, as it can eat under the scales at the ricasso.
Heat - Heat from grinding can break down the resin, but that takes a lot of heat. Heat from using fast set epoxy is often a problem. Use a 24- hour cure resin. It is stronger, cooler, and easier to clean up ( you have a couple hours as it gels).
 
This actually makes alot of sense... i will use alcohol from now on with glue up, and will change my clamping habits... im 100% positive i am clamping too hard. I use a slow cure resin, i let the resin sint in the mold for 24 hours and then let sit at least another 48 before attachaching to a blade
 
Del Raso Knives said:
Couple of things come to mind. One- your resin is bowing as it continues to cure or is reacting to heat generated buy shaping. Two- over tightening clamps during glue up could be stressing them and causing them to lift. Over tightened Corbys can also do this, particularly if you hollow out your tangs prior to tapering.
Click to expand...
Im am absolutely sure i am too agressive with clamping. Something i plan on rectifying immediately!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top