Resin handles

T

TheEdge01

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Apr 3, 2015
Messages
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Good morning, I received a request recently to make a fillet knife with a resin handle with the tang of the blade inserted into wood and a fishing lure placed inside the handle below the tang.
I’ve never made a resin handle before, so any tips or tricks would be appreciated.
 
Just to be clear, you want a transparent handle right?

Make sure you're using something that dries clear. My West system doesn't, it's slightly yellow.

Mix thoroughly in a larger container than you need. Put it in a vacuum chamber to get out the excess gas, then pour into your mould from a hight and rate that makes a very slim stream.

Put your completed mould into a pressure chamber and let it cure under pressure overnight.

It should come out very clear with very few bubbles.
 
A.McPherson said:
Just to be clear, you want a transparent handle right?

Make sure you're using something that dries clear. My West system doesn't, it's slightly yellow.

Mix thoroughly in a larger container than you need. Put it in a vacuum chamber to get out the excess gas, then pour into your mould from a hight and rate that makes a very slim stream.

Put your completed mould into a pressure chamber and let it cure under pressure overnight.

It should come out very clear with very few bubbles.
Click to expand...
It will be clear resin. I’m leaning towards using TotalBoat Epoxy Resin.
 
So the handle would be half wood/half resin? You will need to plan carefully how to set the tang and the lure in the same handle. Live edge burl with a partially inset lure and a light blue or clear cast could look nice. Shorter tang in the wood part and two pins to make it strong. You could make the lure look like it is swimming out behind the reef. If inset in wood lure would make the resin part also stronger.
 
Something like this one
FD2-B1114-933-A-4076-89-BD-E708-CE7-F3-D35.jpg
 
You need something mechanical going through the wood/acrylic joint, or it will break under pressure.
I suggest using Casting Craft acrylic from Hobby Lobby. It dries clear and hard. You can use multiple layers, and it can be mirror polished.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
You need something mechanical going through the wood/acrylic joint, or it will break under pressure.
I suggest using Casting Craft acrylic from Hobby Lobby. It dries clear and hard. You can use multiple layers, and it can be mirror polished.
Click to expand...
We have a Hobby Lobby close by, I’ll check that out. Thanks
 
Do yourself a favor and skip all the Hobby stores and Hardware stores resins as well as resins made for boating.

They are weak, will yellow and will chip and break. They are not made for high impact or food safe.

Call "Polymer Composites " in Ontario California. The owner/ chemist Gerald will be able to help you get the correct product. They make high impact resins and epoxies that are food safe and are far superior then the hobby and boat products.

He is easy to deal with and you can get it directly from them, or from their Ebay store.
 
Adam gives good advice, but so do I. I have used the Hobby Lobby stuff for 20 years. It works, and works well.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
You need something mechanical going through the wood/acrylic joint, or it will break under pressure.
Click to expand...
Fishing hooks are thematically appropriate

I wouldn't trust the epoxy not to yellow eventually, and would let the client know that it may yellow in time. A slight blue tint might help absorb some UV and limit perceived yellowing?
 
Bill does give excellent advice.

Now here I am beating with a hammer some casting resin

 
Art resin from Amazon dries hard and clear as glass. I use it alot and on everything from fixing veneers and dentures to guitars.

Non toxic or I'd be dead already. :-)
 
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