resin reccomendations for cord wrapped handles

Rival1314

Rival1314

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
1,424
Hey all,

I tried several searches, most with minimal results (other than sale threads) on WHAT KIND of resins people are using for cord wrapped handles. I learned alot about the process, and reasons for impregnating with resin, but only one mention of which brand was being used. I am familiar with West Systems products. What products do you use for this purpose??

If it helps I am making Kiridashi's and neckers with 550 cord wrapped handles and need a good clear resin/epoxy to coat them with as a sealand. I also have been playing with traditional style handle wrapping, but using nylon cord.

Reccomendations on your techniques and pictures are always welcome!!

thanks...
 
West System Epoxy

105 resin and 207 hardener.

Be sure to also order the metering pumps to simplify mixing.

Alpha Knife Supply carries both the epoxy and pumps.
 
What Jonathan said. Pretty much most of the Japanese style makers use it, and will tell you the same. Be sure to mix the stuff in the right ratio or your handles wont cure and will be soft and wet. Get the right ratio and cure time, the handle will be as hard as a brick.

The pumps make it easier. The resin can is bigger than the hardener can. One full pump of each will make the right ratio. I measure the stems on the pumps and take a sharpie marker and mark it halfway, and squeeze to those lines. You can eyeball it, the ratio is kinda forgiving. That's more than enough for one standard tsukamaki handle. You can mix the stuff in an old water bottle, pop can, whatever. I use the cheap multi colored kids paintbrushes you can get at walmart to paint the stuff on. Acid brushes for flux also work well. You don't have to warm or thin the stuff with acetone. Just paint it on, and after it all soaks in, wipe any shiny goopy stuff off with a clean rag or old shirt. Let it cure for a good 24 hours before molding any kydex.

I believe Tracy at USA Knifemakers also carries it. It isn't cheap, but my cans have done a hundred knives, and can do maybe that many more.

Ben Tendick uses minwax wood hardener. I've been meaning to test this out for awhile now.
 
Mitchell Knives said:
West System Epoxy

105 resin and 207 hardener.

Be sure to also order the metering pumps to simplify mixing.

Alpha Knife Supply carries both the epoxy and pumps.
Click to expand...

What Johnathan said - the 207 hardener is crystal clear (not yellowish) and relatively thin so that it wets the handle material well. Absolutely great stuff - and the pumps are key. They make your proportions spot-on and keeps your hands clean!

TedP
 
West Systems 105/207 for me as well. It has a looooooooong shelf life, too. I had a big can that lasted 4 years(after opening) and never degraded. I know folks who use Spar Varnish and shellac but I don't have experience with those.
 
I use Great Planes thin super glue (CA) it cures in seconds and is rock hard I get it at hobby stores but of late eBay sells it much cheaper
 
I messed around with CA a bit and the result was ok. I use G-fleX from West alot for bonding scales. looks like I'll be going with the 105/207 with pumps....

I really appreciate the feedback everyone!!
 
I use System Three Clear Coat. You it is a 2:1 ratio

I use a toothbrush to dab it on. It dries clear and rock hard. It almost feels like micarta but looks like cloth

Here are a couple of examples

42CNVY6.jpg


8XoeHtD.jpg
 
Last edited:
Josh Mason said:
What Jonathan said. Pretty much most of the Japanese style makers use it, and will tell you the same. Be sure to mix the stuff in the right ratio or your handles wont cure and will be soft and wet. Get the right ratio and cure time, the handle will be as hard as a brick.

The pumps make it easier. The resin can is bigger than the hardener can. One full pump of each will make the right ratio. I measure the stems on the pumps and take a sharpie marker and mark it halfway, and squeeze to those lines. You can eyeball it, the ratio is kinda forgiving. That's more than enough for one standard tsukamaki handle. You can mix the stuff in an old water bottle, pop can, whatever. I use the cheap multi colored kids paintbrushes you can get at walmart to paint the stuff on. Acid brushes for flux also work well. You don't have to warm or thin the stuff with acetone. Just paint it on, and after it all soaks in, wipe any shiny goopy stuff off with a clean rag or old shirt. Let it cure for a good 24 hours before molding any kydex.

I believe Tracy at USA Knifemakers also carries it. It isn't cheap, but my cans have done a hundred knives, and can do maybe that many more.

Ben Tendick uses minwax wood hardener. I've been meaning to test this out for awhile now.
Click to expand...

The wood hardener applys very easily and is quite durable. I use it mostly on my Ito wrapped handles, as they are quite solid even without any epoxy or glue. If I am doing a hemp, jute or other similar style wrap I use a normal epoxy. It is a bit more durable and binds the wrap together a little better.
I need to order some of the 105/207 west sytems epoxy from Chuck.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
That's what I use, as well.
Click to expand...

I really like it for cord wrap. Since it is designed for under water use, it makes the handle (as you know) impervious to water even if submersed for extended periods of time.
 
thanks for all the info guys!! I ended up ordering the west systems 105/207 combo with the pumps. I may look into the System Three at a later date...

AVigil.....beautiful work!!!!

Cant wait to get some finished pieces together and start moving forward!!!
 
You are all set with the West Systems.

System Three is really good and you only have to lay out about $35
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top