Resizing and Finishing Handle

Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
32
Hello everyone,

I just received my first khuk from H.I. and overall am really pleased with it. It is a Bhakta GR/BC from a DotD from earlier this week. It's 18.5" and started out at 34 oz. The one problem I was having with it (and going through some of the older threads noticed others have felt this way about some of the bigger khuks) is that the handle was big.

This morning I started to take it down a bit, and am getting to where it fits much more comfortably (and firmly) in my hand. With this, I have two questions. Any input is appreciated.

Q1: Which fingers should the raised handle ring fit between? I am thinking the ring/middle fingers, but was wondering if anyone has any different ideas/reasons for something else. I haven't completely decided whether to keep it or not. Besides tradition, does anyone have an opinion about keeping it or not?

Q2: I have seen where people recommend tung, mineral, and various other oils for wood handles. Is there any particular treatment that works with neem better than something else?

I have added a few pictures of what I have done so far. I have spend about 3 hours today (it's been raining, so couldn't play if I wanted to). Any comments or critiques on that are appreciated as well. I will add a few finished photos in the next few days.

I am trying to keep much of the original shape/style, just make it overall smaller and more fitted to my hand. I have taken off about 1/8"-1/4" around the circumference (I didn't officially measure it before I started). Some of this was done by making the handle flush with the bolster. I also moved the raised handle ring up closer to the center of the handle (about 1/4" toward the blade) because it sat right in the middle of my ring finger. It is still rough as I need to get some fine grit sand paper, but wanted to get treatment suggestions to save myself a trip to the store.

The handle before I started
Init_1.jpg


The right profile of the handle
right_1.jpg


The overall khuk
Full_1.jpg
 
Nice work! I've heard not to remove too much at the bolster,since I think the wood supports it. Someone else with more knowledge will chime in on this I'm sure. I like the ring between ring and middle finger, like you do. As for finish, my satisal and whatever my B-43 has like Watco Danish Oil. That's what I fed them anyway. It looks like you have neem. I've heard neem is oily and may be different than other woods, as far as treatment goes. I think Warty said something like that, and he was good with wood:). Good luck. It's fun to customize your khuk. I'm really digging it. Take care.

PS. I found 400 grit to be about as smooth as I wanted my handle to be. My satisal (I think) M-43 wood is silky smooth.
 
Boywondered, looks really good so far:thumbup:
Q1; really depends on what "grip" I am using, sometimes I choke up(more precision) some times I hang back (More power wrist flick) but generally between the ring and middle fingers.
Q2; as far as finish goes Warty had excellent luck soaking with Murphy Oil Soap http://www.colgate.com/MurphyOilSoap/products/original-formula non-chlorinated it helps bring out the rouge the Kami's used on the buffer when finishing the handle it gets in deep so sanding usually doesn't get it all. For finish I'd go with Boiled Linseed Oil thinned out with Mineral spirits its neutral in color and should leave the neem "brighter" Tung Oil is a bit reddish and may tint it a bit. Another trick is to wrap the bolster in masking tape so as to not sand over it.
Grit wise I don't know how dense neem is anything over 600 is usually a waste and I usually only go that high with birdseye maple or cocobolo.
 
First of all, I like this knife a lot, I have a similar one.

Here's a photo of yours (I think) from the DOTD:
2-16-11%20002.jpg


Note that the ring is beveled, which on mine tends to keep my hand from slipping upward when the knife is raised (and feels more secure to me, especially considering there is no guard between hand and blade edge).

Thought you might want to consider this.

Also, between the ring and the pommel, I like this to be a smaller diameter than the rest, allowing my pinky and ring finger to "lock on" when desired, while still allowing pivoting of the knife during wrist snaps.
 
jdk1 - Thanks. It is hard to see, but there is a little bit left and I am not taking off any more around the bolster. I left enough so that when I sand it down it won't be any deeper than flush. The top and bottom where already there, so I made the handle less round and more oval.

oldschool45 - Thanks also. I will definitely wrap the bolster. I can see that being a step I would not think of until I scuffed the finish. It is also a tip on using the Murphy's soap. I had wanted to keep it with a more natural color, so the boiled linseed sounds like a good idea.

Steve_Tall - That is the second one that was offered (mine was from V-day), but I think almost exactly the same except the ring looks to be a little more flaired. That is a good point about it slipping forward. I am thinking of taking a little more off between the ring and the pommel, but I wanted to wait till I decided if I was going to keep the ring before I took more off. I tried to make it so that if I got rid of the ring I wouldn't have to rework anything else.

I will probably get a piece of 400 and 600 so that I can decide as I go. I have been going slow so I don't get carried away. I figure after I sand it, it should be right where I want it.
 
Last edited:
Boywondered, if you can lock it up in a vice (by the blade) with padded jaws it makes life a lot easier!!! Rain won't hurt that badboy so go out and give it some exercise. I like to make a few trips to the wood pile and adjust my adjustments before final finishing.
 
Boywondered I gotta say, Most excellent work!!!:thumbup: :cool: :D I'm like you and anytime I used to rework a handle the first thing I'd do was shoot for making the handle more oval shaped, actually 'Egg Shaped' with the smaller more pointed end at the bottom of the handle. I also prefer the ring between my middle and ring fingers and I also like to keep the taper on the ring as well. If I'm being particularly anal/picky I'll make about a 1/32"-3/64" flat at the very top of the taper with just a slight bevel/radius around the top side of it so as to not cut into my ring finger or rub a blister.
And like Steve I also like the area just above the ring a bit smaller than below the ring...
I also like to put the little grooves back into the handle and especially the one around the top of the ring which can be a real sob! :eek: I've found what works best for me to put them back with is a fine hacksaw blade with the 'set' on the teeth ground flat with the side of the blade, leaving the teeth sharp. This thins the blade down to about the same size of the originals, with the 'set' left alone it makes the grooves too wide too suit me... A length of string coated with beeswax and then pushed into the steel fines around the base of a bench grinder or belt sander makes an excellent tool for smoothing up and shining the bottoms of the newly cut grooves by pulling the string back and forth working all around the handle.:thumbup: :D

`
 
Boywondered, looks very nice, I like what you did with the handle. Neem is fun to work with, it has almost a spicy smell when sanding. I have found that after you are finished sanding you should clean the heck out of it with mineral spirits, that should get rid of any stains from working it. After its good and clean, I would tape off the blade (if not done already) and do a good soak in Boiled Linseed Oil. I usually cut an old plastic bottle that will hold the handle, fill it with the oil and put it in for a few hours, or a full day. When you take it out Wipe off all the excess, try to wipe it as dry as you can and leave it a day or so to dry, when dry do a few more coats of BLO, wipe and dry method. This will give the neem a nice light honey tone color. Brings out the natural color in the wood. Hope it helps.
 
oldschool45 - Unfortunately I don't have a place to set up a work bench, so I have to wait till the weather is nicer to set out my folding work table. I am not worried as much about the blade as I am for me when it comes to a cold rain ;). It was nicer yesterday, so I was able to set everything up outside.

Tvsa - Thanks. As of right now I don't have much other than a fine saw blade to put the grooves in. I am still debating on putting them back in. Will probably decide in the next few days. Those are all great ideas on how to cut and polish them.

pugs75 - Thanks. I like working with it. It's almost like cooking with the spicy smell. It also doesn't take too much effort to get it to do what you want. I like the idea with the bottle to hold the handle.

I am pretty sure when I finish the sanding and the sculpting, I am going to do the mineral spirits/BLO treatment. These have all been great ideas, and also nice reassurances. I have done other wood projects before, but nothing quite like this. It's been fun, and have definitely been learning.

Here are a few pictures from yesterday. Since taking the pictures I have sanded it a little more, and it is not as rough on the ring. I also took a little bit more off the bottom between the ring and the pommel, like Steve_Tall and Yvsa were talking about, and cut a little more of a notch about a 1/4" below the bolster on the lower side of the handle. If you look close you can see a little of it in the first picture.

right_2.jpg


top_3.jpg


Again, thanks for all the suggestions and ideas and encouragement. They have all been very helpful.
 
Looks like everything is going really well with your modification.
I have no doubt that the wood will will take on a "glow" when you finish it with the oil treatment.
 
Back
Top