Restored a vintage Western Cutlery hunting knife . . .

C

chakotay

Joined
Dec 13, 2011
Messages
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Just posted another restoration video of an old Western Cutlery L39 hunting knife. It was in pretty rough shape (just the way I like 'em!) I THINK it's from the 1940's, but haven't confirmed.
I did try my hand at bead blasting for the first time. I was happy with how well it works for hiding oxidation & rust pitting.

These vintage Western knives are interesting for their unique split tang design (or what I call "tuning forks".) Enjoy!

Knife Restoration

9rFoDUd.jpeg
 
Very nicely done! Thanks for showing the full process, especially the removal of the washers and pommel. It's like a brand new knife.
 
oldmanwilly said:
Very nicely done! Thanks for showing the full process, especially the removal of the washers and pommel. It's like a brand new knife.
Click to expand...

Thanks oldmanwilly! Removing the pommel is always the hardest part on these restorations. Lots of ways to screw it up -- almost like they weren't designed to be taken apart ;-)
Especially on these Western knives; not a large, single pin right in the middle ... it's two smaller ones on the outer, curved edges.
 
chakotay said:
Thanks oldmanwilly! Removing the pommel is always the hardest part on these restorations. Lots of ways to screw it up -- almost like they weren't designed to be taken apart ;-)
Especially on these Western knives; not a large, single pin right in the middle ... it's two smaller ones on the outer, curved edges.
Click to expand...

That's what I figured. Why did you drill out the majority of the pins before using a punch? Were the original held in with any kind of adhesive, or were they friction-fit only?
 
oldmanwilly said:
That's what I figured. Why did you drill out the majority of the pins before using a punch? Were the original held in with any kind of adhesive, or were they friction-fit only?
Click to expand...
Pure friction fit. However, the pins can't be tapped out entirely on their own; they'll mushroom/deform and become even more wedged (and I'm guaranteed to damage the pommel while I attempt it.) They have to be carefully drilled out. But if I try to drill the pin all the way through, there's a high possibility that the drill bit will deflect by the time it reaches the other side. The pin is typically a harder metal than the aluminum pommel ... so the drill will naturally want to follow the path of least resistance. Now you have a clean "entry hole" on one side and a mangled "exit hole". So, I make a pilot hole with the center drill, switch to a standard twist drill and continue past the knife's tang, as close to the opposite side without going through. Only then do I attempt to tap out what's left of the pin.

My process continues to evolve. These are all lessons that I had to learn the hard way ;-). A few knives were sacrificed along the way.
 
chakotay said:
Pure friction fit. However, the pins can't be tapped out entirely on their own; they'll mushroom/deform and become even more wedged (and I'm guaranteed to damage the pommel while I attempt it.) They have to be carefully drilled out. But if I try to drill the pin all the way through, there's a high possibility that the drill bit will deflect by the time it reaches the other side. The pin is typically a harder metal than the aluminum pommel ... so the drill will naturally want to follow the path of least resistance. Now you have a clean "entry hole" on one side and a mangled "exit hole". So, I make a pilot hole with the center drill, switch to a standard twist drill and continue past the knife's tang, as close to the opposite side without going through. Only then do I attempt to tap out what's left of the pin.

My process continues to evolve. These are all lessons that I had to learn the hard way ;-). A few knives were sacrificed along the way.
Click to expand...

I figured there was a good reason. I've got a couple of old Craftsman hunting knives (made by Schrade) that have a similar construction: leather washers and aluminum pommel with a steel pin. I'd like to redo the handles but don't want to mangle the pommels as I don't have to resources to create a new one. At least I know what not to do once I get started.
 
chakotay said:
Just posted another restoration video of an old Western Cutlery L39 hunting knife. It was in pretty rough shape (just the way I like 'em!) I THINK it's from the 1940's, but haven't confirmed.
I did try my hand at bead blasting for the first time. I was happy with how well it works for hiding oxidation & rust pitting.

These vintage Western knives are interesting for their unique split tang design (or what I call "tuning forks".) Enjoy!

Knife Restoration

9rFoDUd.jpeg
Click to expand...
Nice job.

That tang stamp and model number stamped on the guard puts this knife at 1968-1972 if I remember correctly.
 
Quite a difference I would say. Nice job to get it back to new condition. Love those older hunting knives with leather and bone grips.
 
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