Restoring a rusted cleaver

[MasterLemons]

Iv'e already started with removing some of the rust.
I was curious how bevels are generally done with cleavers. What angle would be best?
I may have to grind into the blade a little bit to make a workable edge out of it because of the chips.
It's going to be impossible to remove the pits without removing too much of the blade I think.

If you have any suggestions or advice you can offer it would be appreciated. I've checked a few sharpening and making guides already. I did have some trouble finding information on restoring pitted and rusted knives.

Sorry the image is huge, I don't know how to resize it.

 

[Lieblad]

My kitchen cleaver is about 3mm thick, its bevels up extend about 22mm. I dunno how offhand that works out to degrees.
Of course your example is pretty far gone, once the rust is off, you might have to wing it & see what you can work with.

Electrolysis is my usual method if something is deeply rusted. Otherwise, Mild acid soak such as citric, phosphoric or vinegar then scrub is my favoutire to de-rust.

 

[scott.livesey]

i would start with a coarse(40grit) then fine(120grit) flapper disc on a 4 1/2" angle grinder until the surface rust is gone. it is probably forged in a full flat grind, so once the rust is gone you can start to grind out the edge chips keeping the forged angle. if the blade is thin, 1/8" or less, i would grind a 10degree bevel. if thicker than 1/8", 15degree bevel. finish with a 20degree micro bevel.
scott

 

[irona]

I'd love to see a pic when you're done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Zemapeli]

First go buy some Loctite Naval Jelly [which is a phosphoric acid product as is CLR (which doesn't work quite as well as it is weaker], Spread the navel jelly out evenly on the blade (liberally). Allow the navel jelly to sit for ten minutes for the first application. Then use an abrasive; (such as a metal finishing pad [ found at most hardware stores ] or steel wool, and scrub at the rust. Rinse the blade in warm water and scrub with a soapy rag. The rust should be all gone after the first application, leaving the black patina or black oxides left on the blade. Wipe or submerse the blade in a petroleum distillate product such as K1 Kerosene or Mineral Spirits/Mineral Oil. This will neutralize the phosphoric acid in the naval jelly and make the steel stable again.
Repeat the treatment until you get the desired result. Soak the blade in K1 Kerosene to soften black oxide pits after applications.
Vinegar is also an acid that removes rust from steel (since the middle ages - if you've ever heard that armor was scrubbed with vinegar to remove rust (scoured). Soak the blade in vinegar (completely submerse) and allow 15-30 minutes for the blade to soak between scouring(s) with an abrasive. This takes more time. You will still need mineral oil or K1 Kerosene [petroleum distillate] to neutralize the acids from the vinegar on the steel. You can use flitz metal polish to polish the steel when you are done with this process, but the steel will still be pitted. You could also bead blast for a finish or parkerize the knife as well. [Manganese electro charged in a weak or mild acid which attaches to the steel] Maybe rehandle it with some nice wood or metal with mosaic pins or brass?? some ideas..

PM me if you need any more help with these steps. I've done it more than a few times.:thumbup:

 

[Bill DeShivs]

I would also recommend chemically removing the rust. There is an awful lot of it.
With this much pitting, the blade will be hard to keep clean, and rust will be a continual problem.
Please note that petroleum distillates DO NOT neutralize acids. A base like baking soda/water or ammonia does.
Petroleum distillates will protect from further rusting, if the steel is first rinsed thoroughly.

 

[OldSteel62]

Electrolysis rust removal.....look it up. Plenty of Youtube videos on setting it up. I use it on badly rusted items and it works very well with minimal effort.

An item that badly rusted will probably take several trips through the tank but it will get it clean. Then your just have to rinse with clean water then apply your chosen rust preventative.

 

[Zuluninja]

I got some and just went over with a sanding disc on an angle grinder, then flattened the bevel on a belt sander to later round it on the slack to give it a proper convex.

...but that rust looks deep, if you have to go too deep it might not be worth it, just my .02

 

[deltaboy]

LOOKING much better.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Electrolysis will be the way to go, but that's some wicked deep pitting. Edges on pro cleavers are like cold chisels, but a little more refined. Should be able to cut flesh, but optimized for hacking bone.