Restoring an unusual 6254 Trapper from 1980

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May 5, 2024
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Working on my first restoration project and have a few questions about the knife I'm working on. I'm also new to bladeforums so nice to meet everyone.

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It's a 6254 Trapper- It has the Case XX USA 10 dot stamp that identifies it from 1980, but there are a few unusual things about it. So I'm trying to figure out if it's a rare item where I should be really careful about not polishing or repairing too much. If it's a typical $100 or less I'm not going to worry and just restore it to my own taste and carry/use it sometimes. I'm new to this so I don't want to unknowingly "ruin" something special. I suspect this won't be an issue because of the condition and that it's not particularly old but I'm also just curious about the knife.

From what I understand the unusual parts are:
- Imitation pearl scales usually don't have the case shield on the side
- By 1980 the case shield was rarely pinned and was usually fixed with an adhesive
- The main blade is thinner than usual - there's a rare "muskrat" blade that was sometimes used in the late 70s that makes the knife more valuable, but that's unusual for a 1980 model
- Pattern engraved into the spine/backspring. I've only seen 1 or 2 case knives with something similar

These details could mean a few things:
- It's a forgery, which I understand is unlikely for a 1980 model (too new, forgeries exist but are usually the older ones)
- It was some kind of rare limited release
- It was a custom request or a unique build made by an employee. Not sure how this affects the value.

My plans for the last part of the restoration:
- Fix the cracked scale with a clear epoxy with mica pigment added if I can get the color close enough to the existing imitation pearl
- Brighten up the blades a little more with a 5 min vinegar soak and rubbing it gently with baking soda
- Give some extra care to the tang stamp, I'd really like to make it stand out a little more
- Sharpen it once all that is done

Appreciate any opinions on this.
 
That's not imitation pearl, I believe it's real pearl. I think someone tried to re-handle a 1980 6254 with real pearl handles, rather unsuccessfully. I think that pinned shield was an attempt by the same person. I highly doubt it was an employee. I'd go ahead and do whatever you like to that knife, you're definitely not going to hurt its value. You could even try re-handling it since the pearl is quite broken and cracked.

Eric
 
First of all, welcome to the Forum! This is a great place to learn and share about traditional knives. You should consider this in the future.
WHAT IS MY KNIFE / GADGET / SPATULA / TUNING FORK WORTH ?!?!?!?!

In order to curtail potential abuse of membership privileges associated with the forums, questions regarding valuation of knives and collections are limited to those with a membership level which permits selling on this site. Accordingly, registered and basic members may not start or post in threads with such requests whether with the intent to sell or for informational purposes only. This rule applies throughout the site.

In other words, without a paid Gold membership, you don't get to ask about sale values. Too many people abused this question to hint they had a knife for sale, which you need that membership for.
 
Appreciate the replies. No need to discuss the value, my one real question there was how careful I should be with it and that's been answered. I was aware of that rule and was doing my best to avoid crossing that line.

Yeah its definitely been rehandled. 6254 indicates it was made with jigged handle material, either bone, wood or synthetic such as Delrin. If it was real pearl it would be marked 8254, if it was imitation MOP it would be marked 9254.
Just boned up on the handle material codes again, not sure how I missed that but thank you. Clearly rehandled so I feel safe with my original plans.


That's not imitation pearl, I believe it's real pearl. I think someone tried to re-handle a 1980 6254 with real pearl handles, rather unsuccessfully. I think that pinned shield was an attempt by the same person. I highly doubt it was an employee. I'd go ahead and do whatever you like to that knife, you're definitely not going to hurt its value. You could even try re-handling it since the pearl is quite broken and cracked.

Eric
I think I'll stick with the pearl on this one because I like the look. I have another old knife that I'm going to rehandle for my next project.

What makes you think it's real pearl? If it helps - those wavy patterns in it I believe are from the stress of an impact that I assume also broke the rear scale. The right side has them front and back, where the left side that wasn't hit is very uniform in coloring. Also it seems to have yellowing from which seemed more likely to come from an acrylic. I looked at the break it under magnification and it seemed to be solid and chipped, rather than having the layers that I read would be present in genuine mother of pearl. But I'm not 100% sure on any of those points so you could be right.
 
What makes you think it's real pearl? If it helps - those wavy patterns in it I believe are from the stress of an impact that I assume also broke the rear scale. The right side has them front and back, where the left side that wasn't hit is very uniform in coloring. Also it seems to have yellowing from which seemed more likely to come from an acrylic. I looked at the break it under magnification and it seemed to be solid and chipped, rather than having the layers that I read would be present in genuine mother of pearl. But I'm not 100% sure on any of those points so you could be right.

It's the whiteness, the iridescence, that kind of pinkish rainbow effect. You can't match all of those features at once with imitation pearl. I can pretty much guarantee that what you have there is real pearl.

Eric
 
It's the whiteness, the iridescence, that kind of pinkish rainbow effect. You can't match all of those features at once with imitation pearl. I can pretty much guarantee that what you have there is real pearl.

Eric
Think I'm going to take your word for it then. I've mostly just looked at pictures.
 
Discerning the difference between a Turkish/California Clip main blade and a Muskrat main blade on a 54 is difficult to do on a used blade. You have to consider the normal variations in blades due to sharpening differences. Your main blade has some recurve, from sharpening. I don't think that is a rare Muskrat, but rather a sharpened and used standard Turkish Clip main. Of course this is based on studying your picture. Combined with the above remarks I would go ahead and fix the knife up to suit yourself, you will have a nice carry pocketknife when you are done. Welcome to Blade Forums. OH
 
Ran across this old thread, thought I'd post an update. I had finished this last summer so I've been carrying it around some since then.


Has held up well. I would have liked the epoxy to blend in a little better but the color and iridescence from the mica is close enough to give it some character.

Tough getting it sharp enough due to the recurve, but overall I'm pretty happy with this project.
 
I just had the most brilliant idea:
Recycle the pearl scales into delicate earrings....that way your knife hobby has insurance against wifely attack! I so wish I'd thought of it earlier in life...pure genius.
Good luck with restoration.
Cheers.
 
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