Restoring collins and plumb, octagon? Length?

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Jan 17, 2013
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One is an old collins stamped with rectangle and the other i believe is a plumb stamped with only a "M" and "3-1/2". Both heads weigh 3-1/2 pounds. I intend on installing one 30" handle. And i would like a shorter handled axe for camping. Is 19" haft too short for a 3-1/2 lb bit? Also, i like the idea of the octagon handle, but im not sure what benefit it provides. Im sure someone here has an idea? Its only 1.50 more per handle. Thanks guys.
 
I have a Collins Legitimus Dayton, 3.5 lb head on a 20" miners haft. That's the way I got her. I keep her near the fire pit up at camp. She is great for making kindling for the fire. Shes really to heavy for any other tasks with that haft on her. Good luck with yours.

Tom
 
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I think a 3-1/2 pound axe needs at least a 30" haft. I'd put one on a 30"-32" haft and the other on a 36". Then try 'em out and see how you like them.

For me an octagon gives a slight advantage in letting your hand know exactly how the axe is oriented. I don't think it makes a big difference but I still octagon most of my handles. More important is making the transition from grip to swell as abrupt as possible. That's makes an axe easier to handle.
 
No experience with octagon handles (yet) but it would seem they have material removed, and I like the feel of a slimmer handle.
For a good all around camping axe I would be looking for a nice 2 to 2.5 pounder for that 19" handle.
 
I haven't done any octogon handles but want to in the future. I think they would be 90% for looks and 10% for the feel. Haft a few of each and see what is better for you, that's what it's all about. Same thing with the weight. I carry a 3 1/2 pound axe on a 18 inch handle on my snowmobile. Most people would say that's all wrong, but it works good for the purpose.
 
Thank ya'll for your thoughts. I really do appreciate it. I went on ahead and ordered last night from house handles. I went with a 30" curved, and a 28" straight. If I hate them, I'll go longer. I requested octagonal, no lacquer, and grains to be within 20 degrees from being center. I did a little work on the bits yesterday. The plumb is in great shape. The Collins pole has been beat to hell, but the edge seems good. It looks like someone has sharpened it on a bench grinder at one time. I hope that it's temper is still true. Time will tell. Seemed hard enough with the file...but I have limited experience with the lower RC usually involved with axes. Anyone know how many posts are required before one can post pictures?
 
Anyone know how many posts are required before one can post pictures?

I think you need to be a paid member before bladeforums will host your images here on their servers. But anyone can post images that they have uploaded somewhere else on the web. Get a free account with photobucket or imageshack or one of the others.
 
I think you may be right. After soaking this bit in vinegar for 3 days I have found no temper line. And after a session with a bstard file it appears as if the blade is soft. It's ashame too because I paid top dollar for a top of the line handle. At least I found the Collins with it...I'm just hoping that the temper wasnt affected by the sharpening from a bench grinder.
 
Progress update. The Collins is hung. Went with the 28" straight handle, also bought a 30" curved, with octagon and no lacquer from house handles. Received the handles in about two weeks. House Handles is awesome. Sanded with 150 grit and applied three coats of boiled linseed on the handle and put a decent edge on the axe blade. I still havent got a flickr, but when i do ill post a pic or two. 28" seems short, but it sure feels good to swing. Also, after swinging and holding a straight handle i dont know why anyone would want a curved handle. It is acc-u-rate. It was my first hang. One thing i learned. Do not cut the thin side of the wedge off to shorten the wedge...still not sure why i did this, and take the time to de-bur the eye of the axe head. I dont have a rasp so i would slide the head down so that it would mar the haft, i would then shave the marred spot on the haft with my Moore Maker trapper with the blade perpindicular to the haft and moving it back and forth...just got done re-sharpenning the pocket knife...this did not damage my blade in any way that i can tell, but it worked better than whittling when trying to make it smooth and even. I also drove a metal wedge diagonal to the wood wedge and soaked the head overnight in BLO. This thing is such a bad-ass with the short straight handle. Im having a saddle shop make a sheath...no quote...i hope they dont charge me 250$. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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