I have a couple of kitchen knives (Miyabi 7000MC) that have engraved (debossed) text, logo, etc near the spine. The colors have worn over years of use. I have been doing some rebeveling, repolishing, etc... sort of mini-restoration. They've been treated well, but after 15 years things wear a bit. I'd like to restore the coloration to the engraved elements. For other tools I've used acrylic paint markers and nail polish with good results. For example, I used those on a socket set to make the engraved sizes easier to read. I don't think that will be effective on a knife that sees regular kitchen use, though, as it will wear very quickly with washing and may leave residue on food. Is there a recommended durable, food-safe way to do this? Thank you.
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Restoring colored embossed elements to knife
- Thread starter treesloth
- Start date
Wowbagger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2015
- Messages
- 8,006
What I suggest could be involved but durable :
Two pack epoxy paint (meaning you mix it super well with a catalyst just before applying ) . Lots of waste / you have to buy a quantity of paint ; think : from an auto painting supply store.
or
You can get an epoxy clear adhesive (= much smaller quantity)
then
find high quality (non fugitive ) powdered , artist quality dry pigment and MIX IT SUPER WELL into the epoxy clear just before you apply it.
The thing to know about both of these two part paints is you mix in the catalyst SUPER WELL until your arm gets tired, that is just the beginning . . . keep mixing it until you are just about to kill your self rather than go on . . .
then mix it some more.
Apply it in a room that is at lest 70 or 80 degrees. See my last line bellow (I said it was involved) .
Once it cures up bake it for a while at a temperature that could not in any way effect the knife temper or handle material .
Heat lamps , out doors is safest.
Don't want to breath the fumes from this stuff at all if possible .
Two pack epoxy paint (meaning you mix it super well with a catalyst just before applying ) . Lots of waste / you have to buy a quantity of paint ; think : from an auto painting supply store.
or
You can get an epoxy clear adhesive (= much smaller quantity)
then
find high quality (non fugitive ) powdered , artist quality dry pigment and MIX IT SUPER WELL into the epoxy clear just before you apply it.
The thing to know about both of these two part paints is you mix in the catalyst SUPER WELL until your arm gets tired, that is just the beginning . . . keep mixing it until you are just about to kill your self rather than go on . . .
then mix it some more.
Apply it in a room that is at lest 70 or 80 degrees. See my last line bellow (I said it was involved) .
Once it cures up bake it for a while at a temperature that could not in any way effect the knife temper or handle material .
Heat lamps , out doors is safest.
Don't want to breath the fumes from this stuff at all if possible .
Wowbagger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2015
- Messages
- 8,006
PS : of course it goes without saying (so I thought I should say it) :
You will need to first scrape away any remaining old paint what'sit
super clean the surfaces with a scary good cleaner like automotive brake parts cleaner . . .
then to just drive this bus into the ditch some paint surface prep spray . . .
piece of cake
Wellllll I mean you wouldn't want your hard earned new paint job to just pop off the first time the room temperature changed now would you ?
Surface prep . The key to any durable paint job !
You will need to first scrape away any remaining old paint what'sit
super clean the surfaces with a scary good cleaner like automotive brake parts cleaner . . .
then to just drive this bus into the ditch some paint surface prep spray . . .
piece of cake
Wellllll I mean you wouldn't want your hard earned new paint job to just pop off the first time the room temperature changed now would you ?
Surface prep . The key to any durable paint job !
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