restoring "mirror" polish

[shadoz]

Hey all,

I've just been out in the garage sharpening up my Korbra with the chakma. Works quite well - I think it's so neat how the kukri is such an all-in-one setup - but I was wondering what the best and least expensive way is to restore the hihgly polished original appearence vs the more smeared effect that's there close to the edge at the moment. I'm a newbie at this, so if that's the way it is I'm okay with it, but just wondering. Most of the threads on shapening sound like people already know what they're doing. Oh yeah, and if I'm using this in the kitchen on a rgular basis to crack open squashes and such do I need to have some sort of anti-rust coating on the blade? Thanks.

Chris

 

[munk]

I'm going to be looking that up myself soon. I'd planned on first trying the 'search' feature of this forum and working from there.

On most khuks it seems pointless to me to restore the mirror finish- I prefer the slight matte look of 800 to 1500 grit sandpaper. If the blade is scuffed you fix this quickly. And working blades get scuffed all the time.

There have been many many threads on this subject. Real reason I answered is so you wouldn't think you were left all by yourself in this empty thread. It's easy to hear the night wind drift through a auditorium or empty thread...and then your imagination starts playing tricks on you...What was that noise?!






munk

 

[newawleans]

Most of the time this council is quite good. The board runs smooth.
But to not answer someone on the threads is cold. Everyone likes to be answered and I dont think it's very hospitable not too.
Like me I have been browsing the hi website for 18 months and i feel like i know most of you. why cant you all just be friends.
i dont feel like shadoz is burafan,cherokee, etc. and does it really matter? hell i could be burafan so what .......

 

[Diamond Cut II]

Use the search function, it's what it's there for . There was a post by Crayola in the General Knife discussion forum, IIRC. I have it saved because I found it to be quite useful:

Here's the quick and dirty:

use wet\dry paper (it is black). Try starting at 220 grit (that etching will take a whiel to remove). Baclk the paper with something FLAT like a very hard piece of wood, or some such thing; I use micarta. If there are curvs to sand (ollow grinds, for example), it is best to shape a wood block to the curve of the hollow. Alternately, you can just use a piece of leather, but it will take longer and might not produce as even of a finish.

You'll want to go 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and up. The lower grits take a while, so dig in and be patient. From 220-400, you can do back and forth strokes. Actually, you want to change the angle slightly with each grit change (go lengthwise with 220, widthwise with 320, lengthwise with 400), so that you can see the old grit lines disappear. From 400 and up, just do lengthwise strokes, and go in one direction only (ricasso to tip). Otherwise, you get swirlies!! I like to use baby oil when sanding, I find it speeds things up. Messy, yes. If you have access to a buffer, you can stop around 600 grit and buff. Otherwise, go as high as you want with the grits. Use paper liek it is free! Once a piece stops cutting, use a new one!

Good luck and don't hurt yourself!