Restoring polish on a Khukri

[R_C]

Hey all. After much lurking (and learning ) I thought I would pose a question:

I have a Nepalese Mini Khukuri. As you may know the edges on these have great potential but come very unrefined. I used 1200 grit wet and dry paper to refine the edge somewhat on a mouse-pad but because it is a convex grind I (predictably) scuffed the entire bevel down to the edge.

Would I be able to restore the shine with a Scotchbrite Surface Conditioning Disc (or wheel) attached to a drill. Is this the best way or is there a better way to do this bearing in mind that I have currently little in the way of equipment.

The flat of the blade is not entirely flat as a result of the hammer forging process and also poses a few problems in polishing out scratches scuffs etc!

Thanks

R_C

 

[mitchshrader]

have someone with a belt grinder flatten the flats to flat, if you get my drift, or don't start. one thing i've learned is build on solid foundations, start as you mean to go on, do it right the first time cause it's just as fast as doing it twice to fix a sloppy effort..

were it me, being without a belt grinder, i'd be liable to use a belt sander, (have done so on a couple big abused blades) and just go hawg wild and MAKE IT FLAT, THEN set the edge profile THEN sharpen it properly once and you'll be set for a looooong time. (you can strop it to perfection if you stay after it, and never need more)..

but you're gonna scratch it all to hell at the beginning, to do it right.. and going over it by hand with 600 grit wet-dry will give you a nicer matte finish but not shiny.. and polishing the flats with a waterstone (not too fine) will give you a satin finish, and with a fine waterstone a mirror finish.. but flat is the foundation, so start there. it'll suck, you won't want to do it twice, it's a job of work, but you ASKED....

 

[Quoddy]

I took two completely different custom knives, a 1084 forged hunter and an ATS-34 slippie, from an initial 600 finish to a mirror finish. It all began when I first changed the edge angle with my APEX and put a very narrow V edge on both. I then went to the mousepad and beginning with 600 grit paper went to 1500 on them to get a convex edge. I finished the edge with a Lee Valley leathered board strop and green compound. Then it was time to go back and remove all the imperfections and scratches that had accumulated. I began using 1500 grit paper cut into 1 1/2" squares, and when the blade sides were as shiny as they'd get with the 1500, I switched to 2500. I actually shaved with the 1084 forged hunter and the sides of both blades are mirror finishes.

 

[R_C]

Thanks for the replies! In the meantime I've been experimenting with different grades of wet/ dry and a softer-than-usual rubber sanding block. This seems to have had the desired effect finished of with a leather strop the edge is now nice and uniform not quite "shaving sharp" but close as dammit which should be about right for durability on a blade which is after all essentially a chopper.

Best of all the original character of the blade and edge has been retained! Finished of by hand with some industrial grade Scotchbright the entire blade is now a uniform satin with a high polish right at the edge from stropping.