- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 5,547
Well, here's what I spent a couple of hours this morning doing, thought I'd share. I took a piece of W1, 1" round by 8" long and forged it into this blade. I got this steel from Deker, I love this stuff and it's priced so right.
Usually when I forge an integral, I leave the bolster area round and fairly thick, 5/8" or so. I thought I'd try something a bit different on this one. While a large blade, I want it to have a slim feel, so I forged the bar down to about 1/2" thick by 1" wide stock, then used my guillotine fuller to set down the start of the blade and the plunge about 7/8" apart. The resulting bolster is about 1/2" thick right now and will be a little slimmer when ground clean.
After setting the bolster, I forged the 2" to the right of the shoulder into a full tang, I guess about 4-1/2" long. It'll be tapered by grinding.
Then I forged the blade steel to the left of the bolster into a kind of hybrid camp/bowie thing. The blade has a mild clip which will be a little more pronounced after profiling. I forged the entire rest of the bar into a blade, I just figured I'd find out how long it wanted to be. It's been normalized twice.
Hammer wise, I broke the stock down with an 8# double jack, did most of the shaping with my 6# straight peen, and wet-finish-forged the bevels with my 3-1/2# flat faced cross peen. Now I have a couple blisters...
There is a lot of steel in one of those drops, the overall length is 15-1/4" and the blade is 10" from tip to bolster. I plan for this blade to get green canvas micarta, SS corbys, and a hamon.
Usually when I forge an integral, I leave the bolster area round and fairly thick, 5/8" or so. I thought I'd try something a bit different on this one. While a large blade, I want it to have a slim feel, so I forged the bar down to about 1/2" thick by 1" wide stock, then used my guillotine fuller to set down the start of the blade and the plunge about 7/8" apart. The resulting bolster is about 1/2" thick right now and will be a little slimmer when ground clean.
After setting the bolster, I forged the 2" to the right of the shoulder into a full tang, I guess about 4-1/2" long. It'll be tapered by grinding.
Then I forged the blade steel to the left of the bolster into a kind of hybrid camp/bowie thing. The blade has a mild clip which will be a little more pronounced after profiling. I forged the entire rest of the bar into a blade, I just figured I'd find out how long it wanted to be. It's been normalized twice.
Hammer wise, I broke the stock down with an 8# double jack, did most of the shaping with my 6# straight peen, and wet-finish-forged the bevels with my 3-1/2# flat faced cross peen. Now I have a couple blisters...
There is a lot of steel in one of those drops, the overall length is 15-1/4" and the blade is 10" from tip to bolster. I plan for this blade to get green canvas micarta, SS corbys, and a hamon.