Review: Batoning Camillus USMC Fighter (Kabar Style)

XMP

Joined
Feb 9, 2007
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This weekend my wife and I took our 5 year old daughter on her first backpacking trip. She's been car camping before, but this was her first pack trip. We hit some rainy weather but it still was a good time.

Because I have read so many threads in the past month about broken and bent knives, usually ones with some sort of stick tang, I decided to do an experiment. I brought along a 20+ year old Camillus USMC fighter -- this is identical in style to the more familiar Kabar -- in order to use it as my primary camp knife.

Normally this knife sits in what I call a TSK (trunk survival kit:) ) in the back of my wife's jeep and rarely is used anymore. I figured it would be informative to see if it could survive as my primary knife.

Over the course of the weekend I batoned this knife so heavily I almost beat the carbon out of it:D . In fact I deliberately abused it: I batoned the spine, I batoned on the handle and guard, twisted and wiggled it loose when it got stuck, and even hammered an embedded log on a stump with the knife. Much of the wood was dense from moisture.

You guessed it -- the parkerizing got scuffed! Well, OK, the leather washer handles also got scuffed too. BUT the blade itself did not bend or break. Overall I was impressed with the toughness of this knife (which probably sold for ~ $29, when it was purchased). In my mind this settled the question on whether a decent knife, let alone an expensive survival knife, should be able to handle this kind of abuse.

Let me say, for the sake of competeness, that altough this knife handled the abuse admirably it clearly isn't the ideal knife for this type of use. Here are the drawbacks:

1. The blade doesn't have enough of a wedge shape (the spine is too narrow) to split the wood effectively in batoning. You have to drive the knife virtually all the way through a piece of wood to split it.

2. The sharpened swedge on the top detracts from its use for batoning, since the baton itself often becomes stuck on the top of the knife.

3. Batoning on the handle doesn't work ideally because of the guard. The guard can become impaled into the wood of the baton, which slows the process.

It may not be the ideal tool for the job, but it was plenty tough enough to handle it anyway.
 
1. The blade doesn't have enough of a wedge shape (the spine is too narrow) to split the wood effectively in batoning. You have to drive the knife virtually all the way through a piece of wood to split it.

2. The sharpened swedge on the top detracts from its use for batoning, since the baton itself often becomes stuck on the top of the knife.

3. Batoning on the handle doesn't work ideally because of the guard. The guard can become impaled into the wood of the baton, which slows the process.

It may not be the ideal tool for the job, but it was plenty tough enough to handle it anyway.

...which is why the axe/knife combo for the woods is sooooo nice.
 
Considering the draw backs of the false (or true, in my case) edge and the guard, I've found my UMSC ka-Bar to baton quite well. The heavy saber grind coupled with the thick spine (are the camillus knives thinner?) work great. A little more length with a drop point and it would would perfect... but then it wouldn't be a USMC style knife, now would it?
 
Very good summary, XMP! Agree 100%, including your assessment of the bladeshape. It is also a good example why carbon and tool steels rule for this type of application and why charging hundreds of dollars only to proclaim that you have the toughest blade ever is somewhat silly. Though I have beaten the living $#it out of a simple Buck 119 as well (stainless). But the longer the blade gets, the larger the forces but often the limits of your hand are far sooner reached that those of a simple, decent blade, especially if the handle is not overly comfortable.
 
Considering the draw backs of the false (or true, in my case) edge and the guard, I've found my UMSC ka-Bar to baton quite well. The heavy saber grind coupled with the thick spine (are the camillus knives thinner?) work great. A little more length with a drop point and it would would perfect... but then it wouldn't be a USMC style knife, now would it?

THe false edge on the Camillus is pretty sharp; it was made for fighting of course. As far as spine thickness, it is the same as the Kabar. When I describe it as relatively thin, I was thinking in comparison to knives noted for batoning -- CS Trailmaster and the Busses (Dogfather, Camp Tramp and Battle Mistresses) which are all much thicker than 3/16ths.
 
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