REVIEW: Council Tool Velvicut Hudson Bay Axe (pic heavy)

coloradowildman

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(An easier to read version of this review can be found on my blog, thanks)

REVIEW: Council Tool Velvicut Hudson Bay Axe

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Council Tool is a relative newcomer to the field of boutique axes, with the category being formerly dominated by Swedish axe makers Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlings as well as Maine-based Snow & Neally. Due to the rise in popularity of homesteading, bushcraft and wilderness survival, the axe appears to be making a comeback after decades of obscurity following the invention of the chainsaw. This has influenced longtime makers to introduce the concept of "boutique axes" or axes that are assembled by hand with a high level of fit and finish so that the axe needs no work before using.

Prior to the boutique concept, a person would have to hand select their own axe and then spend several hours with a file, sharpening stones and lindseed oil to make the axe head and wooden handle ready for use. All that's changed today. If one can muster up the dough then one can have a finished axe that is "turnkey," to borrow a term used in the automobile world. Though costing roughly 4-5 times what a cheaply built Chinese made axe costs, the advantage is that persons without years of experience can buy an axe that is expertly tweaked, finished and ready for use.

Enter Council Tool's Velvicut Hudson Bay Axe. Council is America's oldest continuously operating axe business, originally founded by John Pickett Council in Lake Waccamaw, North Carolina back in 1886. Council has managed to survive for so long by providing simple, yet well built tools along with a commitment to customer service. Council has also provided axes to the US Forest Service since at least the 1930s. They continue to forge and assemble their axes today in this same little North Carolina town.


The Axe

Sporting a two pound, drop forged 5160 polished steel head, 22.5" top grade hickory handle (Grade "A" handle for those new to axe terms) along with a sturdy yet elegant brown leather sheath, the axe is simply stunning:


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The size and weight are similar to famed UK bushcrafter Ray Mears' Wilderness Axe (made by Gransfors Bruks of Sweden). In other words, a very compact 3/4 axe. Council felt that this was an optimum size/weight for a packable axe yet still having enough oomph to split larger pieces of wood. This was also Mears' thinking when he helped design his wilderness axe. My preference with this head weight is a longer handle, but the shorter handle of the Velvicut does make it feel handier. The axe is also hung in the traditional manner with a wooden wedge and metal pin as opposed to Council's usual manner of an aluminum wedge.

The steel that Council uses for the Velvicut line, 5160, is quite revered in the knife community for having outstanding toughness along with good edge retention. Kudos to them for selecting a steel with these kinds of qualities. The axe is advertised as having a Rockwell hardness of 50-54 at the bit (the axe's edge). This particular axe tested in at RC 53. By comparison, the Swedish manufacturers Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlings harden their high carbon steel axe bits in the range of RC 56-58.

This is a fairly substantial difference. This means that the harder Swedish axes tend to take a finer, sharper edge while also retaining that edge better. The downside is that their harder edges can chip easier, especially when it's cold or if hitting a hard knot in a log while chopping.

By contrast, Council's softer yet tougher 5160 steel is more resistant to chipping and breaking. The downside is that it won't hold an edge as long and may not get as absolutely sharp as an axe with harder steel. I guess everything is a tradeoff. The obvious advantage to having an axe with softer, tougher steel is in winter, where steel can become overly brittle. In this situation, maybe the lower hardness makes sense. Either way, Council guarantees the head for life. For additional information on this axe's specs, please check out my Initial Impression Review. It also includes photos of the box and brochure as well some additional angle shots.


Performance Testing


I received this axe back in October, and having used it for a couple of months, feel like I have a good sense of its capabilities. I based my review on five specific traits: 1) Chopping ability 2) Splitting ability 3) Balance\Feel 4) Quality of steel and 5) Wood shaping ability for bushcraft\camp duties.

I decided to pit the two pound Council axe against the 1.5lb Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe, also known as the Wetterlings 19.5" Bushcraft Axe. The Wetterlings is a popular axe and has a well deserved reputation for having excellent chopping ability in spite of its smaller size. Even though the Council axe is bigger, I thought they were close enough in overall size to be a good match for each other.

The bit on the Council axe came roughly paper cutting sharp and slightly thick, while the Wetterlings when new had a thinner edge and was hair shaving sharp. To ensure fairness, I cleaned up the edge on the Council with a belt sander and then stropped it to get it as sharp as possible. The Wetterlings is my personal user, so it was already sharp and ready to go.


The two competitors side by side:

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Head profiles of the two (Council on left):

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Closeup (note the thinner edge of the Wetterlings on the right):


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Chopping

I tested each axe by chopping 30 times into a large seasoned Ponderosa Pine Log. The wider bit and heavier weight of the Council gave it a slight advantage. With a thinner edge I think the Council would have chopped even better. The Wetterlings' thinner edge and smaller cutting surface bit in deeper, but was still bested by the Council axe, thicker edge and all.


The notch to the left is the Council, the right is the Wetterlings:

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Down and dirty! Rough testing the axe by chopping some tough roots to find the magical Elven resinwood from a dead Douglas Fir tree:

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Splitting

This log is bigger than what I would normally split with an axe of this size, but I wanted to see what it was capable of if this were the only sized firewood around. The log to be split was chopped off the main log (shown in the photo) with the Council axe. The technique for splitting shown in these photos is an old woodsman's trick for when no splitting block is available.

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First swing:​

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Rotating the log to get away from the large knot and then another swing:

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Success:

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After getting the big piece split, the rest of the wood was easy to reduce into both medium sized and kindling sized pieces:

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Wood carving/shaping tasks

For wood carving and shaping, I did two simple and commonly used camping/bushcrafting techniques: 1) Feathersticks for firemaking and 2) carving a tent peg. In these tests, it was quite evident that the extra head weight and thicker edge that helped with splitting duties make things a bit more tricky when doing finer work. In all fairness, using any 2 pound axe for making feathersticks just isn't my idea of fun anyway. I would certainly suggest carrying a sheath knife with this axe for doing the finer work, but it's also good to know that if the knife was lost then one could still survive with just this axe.


Rough featherstick made with the Council axe:

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Pointed end of a tent peg made with the Council axe:

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CONCLUSION

All in all, the Council axe performed well, and was exceptional in the splitting category. That said, I feel it would make a great winter trekking companion in the cold country due to the nature of the steel. I also believe that if the bit was thinned out some more it would noticeably increase the chopping and wood carving ability of this axe.

I would like to see Council raise the hardness up to about Rockwell 54-56, which I think is a good compromise between hardness and toughness. That said, its present hardness doesn't hamper its ability to chop and split well. I would however suggest carrying a ceramic sharpening rod to touch up the edge occasionally when doing lots of fine work though.

The Velvicut feels well balanced in the hand, and the handle shape is excellent. One of the criticisms I have about Wetterlings is that their handles are too thick. I believe Council is superior to Wetterlings in this respect.

I'd also like to see another sheath option. The supplied sheath is well built, attractive and provides good protection, but I'd like to have an option for one like in the photo below. This style is generally easier to use in the field compared to the top loading factory sheath:


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What's most significant about this axe is that it's a piece of history. It's the first American-made boutique/bushcraft axe introduced to compete directly with the popular Swedish axes. It is indeed a worthy competitor, and in an age where almost everything in the US seems to be outsourced to China, Council is bucking that trend, and I applaud them for it.
 
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Well done. Thanks for the time, effort, and the review. That looks like a real good, quality piece there overall.

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the great, well-written review. That is a beautiful axe!
 
Will Council sell this length replacements handles?

Molly, I don't see them listed on the website, but I'm pretty sure they have a stock of replacement handles. I will email them on Monday to find out and post an update here.

For the other posters, thanks for the kind words and glad the review is helpful.

Cheers, CW
 
Thanks for the excellent review. I have the Wetterlings Large Hunter as well and love it. However, I'm really glad to see some Americans still want to be competitive with other countries. I'm also prejudice since Council is located not far from where I grew up.

Howard
 
CW,

I really like your review. Thank you for posting it. I was hoping for a positive one because I wanted to buy an American made axe that is high quality, for camp and wilderness. I ordered one of these today and hope to put it through its paces very soon. I was deciding between the GB SFA, GB wilderness hatchet, S&N Hudson Bay, and the Roselli ax from Finland.

After a lot of research and back and forth, I decided on the Velvicut Hudson Bay.

I hope I made the right choice.
 
CW,

I really like your review. Thank you for posting it. I was hoping for a positive one because I wanted to buy an American made axe that is high quality, for camp and wilderness. I ordered one of these today and hope to put it through its paces very soon. I was deciding between the GB SFA, GB wilderness hatchet, S&N Hudson Bay, and the Roselli ax from Finland.

After a lot of research and back and forth, I decided on the Velvicut Hudson Bay.

I hope I made the right choice.


Thank you and let us know what you think after you get it.

Cheers, CW
 
Thanks for the excellent review. I have the Wetterlings Large Hunter as well and love it. However, I'm really glad to see some Americans still want to be competitive with other countries. I'm also prejudice since Council is located not far from where I grew up.

Howard

Hand Axe, yeah, the Large Hunting Axe is a peach. My hope is that Council will put out a smaller axe like the Wetterlings as well, maybe base it on a Dayton head.

So you grew up near Council? Very cool. North Carolina is a beautiful place. I know cause I went to school there for a year when I was a kid:)
 
thanks CWM! great review, very helpful and detailed... i will seriously have to consider one of those...
thanks for taking the time...;)
and...made in the USA:cool:
 
I'd be curious to see the this axe compared to the regular hudson bay version for performance. I also think it's strange that they picked the in between handle length compared to other models. I guess if you can't make up your mind between the large hunter axe or the swedish forest axe you can take this one. Nice review...I enjoyed it.
 
I have one of these axes and honestly? I'm not impressed with it at all. I do not believe it is worth the money when compared to similarly priced competitors on the market.

Mine came with a micro bevel "V" edge rather than a full convex, and was barely sharp enough to cut paper. For an axe this expensive it should shave and be hand convexed from the factory like its competitors. I'd also prefer if the edge was thinner, as the thick edge is easily outperformed by my smaller and lighter weight Small Forest Axe in everything but splitting. Why carry a large heavy axe in the bush when a your smaller axe performs better? I'd rather not have to spend time thinning out the edge on an axe that is supposed to be the pinnacle of their design and ready to go out of the box.

I hate the handle. It is "oval" shaped, and feels horribly awkward in hand compared to the "round" handles I'm used to. I get blisters like crazy using this thing, and it's almost painful for my hands while swinging it. Unlike the OP's review, I much prefer the thicker handle style found on Scandinavian axes. This may be a personal preference issue, but I believe it's worth mentioning that all my friends who handled the axe agreed that it had a very unpleasant handle.

The head isn't well balanced; there isn't nearly enough weight in the poll. As a result of this the axe feels clumsy and lacks accuracy.

The sheath is well made and pretty, but in the field I hate it. It takes too long to put the axe in it and take it out, and there's simply too much leather there. I do not use the standard sheath at all. It's useless and annoying to me.

The steel itself is very nice, the head is cleaned up real well to look pretty, and the handle really is "grade A," but the axe itself lacks the "umph" of it's competitors. I'm not happy about spending so much money on an axe that needs significant work on it's edge for it to perform properly.

I might post up some pictures of mine in the near future; I've had it a couple weeks now and only taken it out a few times. I'll give it a chance through the winter. I doubt it'll replace any of my GB or Husqvarna axes, though. I think this one will end up being traded out to someone who will actually get some enjoyment from it.
 
I have one of these axes and honestly? I'm not impressed with it at all. I do not believe it is worth the money when compared to similarly priced competitors on the market.

Mine came with a micro bevel "V" edge rather than a full convex, and was barely sharp enough to cut paper. For an axe this expensive it should shave and be hand convexed from the factory like its competitors. I'd also prefer if the edge was thinner, as the thick edge is easily outperformed by my smaller and lighter weight Small Forest Axe in everything but splitting. Why carry a large heavy axe in the bush when a your smaller axe performs better? I'd rather not have to spend time thinning out the edge on an axe that is supposed to be the pinnacle of their design and ready to go out of the box.

I hate the handle. It is "oval" shaped, and feels horribly awkward in hand compared to the "round" handles I'm used to. I get blisters like crazy using this thing, and it's almost painful for my hands while swinging it. Unlike the OP's review, I much prefer the thicker handle style found on Scandinavian axes. This may be a personal preference issue, but I believe it's worth mentioning that all my friends who handled the axe agreed that it had a very unpleasant handle.

The head isn't well balanced; there isn't nearly enough weight in the poll. As a result of this the axe feels clumsy and lacks accuracy.

The sheath is well made and pretty, but in the field I hate it. It takes too long to put the axe in it and take it out, and there's simply too much leather there. I do not use the standard sheath at all. It's useless and annoying to me.

The steel itself is very nice, the head is cleaned up real well to look pretty, and the handle really is "grade A," but the axe itself lacks the "umph" of it's competitors. I'm not happy about spending so much money on an axe that needs significant work on it's edge for it to perform properly.

I might post up some pictures of mine in the near future; I've had it a couple weeks now and only taken it out a few times. I'll give it a chance through the winter. I doubt it'll replace any of my GB or Husqvarna axes, though. I think this one will end up being traded out to someone who will actually get some enjoyment from it.

NothingCoherent, thanks for your honest assessment. Regarding the handle, yes, I agree that it's personal preference. I really like the handle on the Council as it is similar to vintage axe handles and feels really comfortable to me. As for the edge, I did try to be honest about this in my review and hope that Council takes note of it. It wouldn't take much work with a file to make it thinner, but for some people it shouldn't have to be this way, I agree. Regarding the balance, again, it might be personal preference. I think it is well balanced though would like to see a longer handle as option as mentioned in the write-up.

Cheers, CW
 
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Thanks Coloradowildman, I'll check back to see what you found out on the replacement handles. My hubby likes Hudson Bay axes.
 
Thanks Coloradowildman, I'll check back to see what you found out on the replacement handles. My hubby likes Hudson Bay axes.

MollyH, yes, the replacement handle is #70-004 and are $28.95 each. In a few days they will be adding it to their website.

Cheers, CW
 
Thanks, Colorodawildman for the information and your review. The 2lb head surprised me, most Hudson Bays have 1 and3/4 heads.
 
Today I spent 5 minutes thinning the edge on a small belt sander, nothing radical, but similar to what somebody would be able to do with a file in about 10-15 mins.

After getting the edge razor sharp, I took it outside into the wild kingdom that I call my yard (we have herds of Elk and Mule Deer that hang out here frequently) and gave it a try. Sorry no pics yet (promise to have some up soon), but the axe performed noticeably better in both chopping and wood shaping\feathering. In fact, my neighbors were quite amused by seeing the huge chips flying from this little axe smacking the wood.

Cheers, CW
 
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