Review of the Kershaw Camp 14 and Camp 18

Storm Crow

Storm Crow

Joined
Apr 12, 2006
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2,506
Hey, something that I didn't make!

[video=youtube;xCF6QHNkfGw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCF6QHNkfGw[/video]

Saw these at the Kershaw booth when I took a break from manning my table at the Usual Suspects Network Gathering a few weeks ago. These were the first blades that I've paid money for in a long time. The review is kind of long, but pretty thorough, looking at everything from tang design to the sheath, with a fair amount of wood cutting.

A *much* better alternative to the Gerber Gator, Bear Grylls Parang, Camillus Carnivore, and the like.
 
Turkish knot grip like you do on your customs would look awesome
 
Look super functional for their price points. The old Kershaw Outcast D2 (convex reprofile) is one of my all time favorite choppers.
 
Thank y'all!

Caine - There's not really a place on the handle to do the Turkish knots. On mine, the Turkish knots have three functions: to anchor the ends of the main wrap, to provide an aesthetic transition from the wrap to the rest of the knife, and to help provide a mechanical lock in the hand to prevent sliding forward or back on the handle (in conjunction with the taper and flare of the integral socket handle itself. On this, the mechanical locks are taken care of by the guard and the flare at the butt.
 
Scottman - I suppose in theory, though I have no idea what you'd be gaining. The handle does a very good job of preventing hand slippage as it's made already. And you'd be looking at pre-heating and post-heating when you weld to keep from making a brittle weld on the medium/high carbon steel, all of which is going to screw with your heat treatment. If you want something like that, talk with a custom maker rather than screw up something that's already pretty well made.

Caine - The tang is plenty big for a hidden tang, but it's going to be too short and awfully small in diameter to do the wrap and Turk's head handles. When I do those, I am usually forging an integral socket handle that fills the hand fairly well prior to the wrap layer being added, and extra long to accommodate the Turk's heads. I could see someone making a nice custom wood or Micarta handle for one of these, but it's not going to lend itself to just wrapping the tang.
 
I picked up a 10 when they first came out and I hate, hate, HATE the overly aggressive and tacky grip texturing. Blister machine, ahoy. Other than that and the factory edge being thick it was a well thought-out tool at a great price.
 
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FTB - Did you mean the 10? Or was there a 12 I missed?

Similar feedback has come up in the past and I completely understand your perspective on the grip and grind, so I don't want my following note to disparage you or your feedback at all. I really like your commentary and reviews. (The Mora 333 you turned me on to is amazing)

When the Outcast came out (very similar ribbed santoprene grip texture); it was discussed that the tool was made for hard blue collar use, where oil, dust, and gloves were more likely than not. In that context it made sense...and I wrapped mine in cord and it became a non-issue.

Similarly, the (Chinese) grind on the Outcast was REALLY thick...it seems better on the Camp series, and Kershaw has used a less costly and easier to sharpen steel.

I am struggling to compare the Camp series to anything other than the Outcast. They appear easier to re-handle, the grind is decent, and the price is really fair...so long as they hold up. There aren't many heavy choppers priced like high end machetes. It's an interesting space to fill.

I feel it's really hard to give this series an apples to apples comparison for their design and price point.
 
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I always wanted to try a machete like the bagwell bowie with the devils horns...

42 blades, maybe some special grade ones to thin out the edges?
 
Yeah I meant the 10. So dang used to discussing 12" machetes that muscle memory kicked in when typing. :D

I honestly have never been in a "blue collar situation" that called for a large chopping knife, to be honest. Where is one going to be chopping that the handle becomes oily? I think it was more of a marketing decision rather than practical one because those who haven't done a LOT of extended (hour+ long) chopping are going to think that rubber handle = better grip and better grip = better tool. In fact, I find that a hard handle with only a minimally textured but well-shaped grip is best. Rubber has a more premium connotation to it than hard plastic, however, with the same ability to be injection molded inexpensively, so it tends to sell well. On the Camp series it can probably be fixed by slipping a length of innertube over the grip--it's just a shame that it should be necessary in the first place. In terms of the edges the grinds are MUCH better than on the Outcasts--they were still just on the thick side, so it just needs to be considered when making the purchase so you aren't unpleasantly surprised. I refused to carry the 10 in my shop on account of the grip texturing, though. I won't carry anything I can't personally endorse.
 
I get it and agree.

...by blue collar I meant a hunter that might need to chop a few saplings away from a tree stand or Disjointing medium/large game. Having a Ken Onion (and bolo) influence I could see it having possible tactical appeal. The grip has helped me in the rain, and I bet it would help with bloody or sweaty hands too.

But you're right, "oily" is unlikely.
 
I agree about the grip, though I didn't get to run it long enough to cause any issues. The shape of the handle itself is great, and should be enough as far as grip goes; they didn't need the texture.

For thickness, though, I think it's fine. I have never picked up a brand new machete that was remotely this sharp. A few minutes on a fine whetstone and a stop and it would easily be shaving sharp. It's a fairly standard knife thickness, to me. I'd much rather have the thicker spine, full flat grind, and secondary bevel versus the typical machete's thinner stock and zero ground bevel (if it even comes to an edge, which a lot don't). There's a bit more weight, but it's an appropriate weight and balance. You saw how well it bit into the wood in the video. My Tramontinas, which are the best machetes I've gotten to use, wouldn't do that well.
 
Oh definitely. I think that they're a fantastic value and really hit the nail square on the head in ALMOST all areas, but if anything that makes something as tiny-but-significant as the texturing thing sort of a magnified fault if you know what I mean. That one little thorn in one's side that keeps it from being PERFECT. Great lines on the whole series, great handle shape, full flat grinds (though not of strong taper), and well thought out sheath, all for a very low asking price.
 
I wonder how long it will take till someone makes replacement handles for them?

I'm still really wondering about the heat treat and RC!!!!!
 
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