Review: Schrade Old Timer Middleman

baraqyal

baraqyal

Joined
Nov 30, 2000
Messages
860
Well, to start out, I should say that I'm not a big slipjoint fan. In fact, I own only one other slipjoint right now, a SAK Recruit. So, I pretty much suprised myself on Sunday whilst browsing the aisles of Orchard Supply Hardware, I picked up a Schrade 34OT Middleman.

With tax, it came to twenty-ish dollars. Not a bad deal, though I've found them for less online. Oh well. It also came with a "FREE! Sharpening Stone"

The sharpening stone is still in the package. I haven't tried it out yet. Didn't look too wonderful. I doubt it take the place of my Sharpmaker 204.

As for the knife:

Description
The middleman is one of the "Old Timer" series. In fact, it has a shield that says "Old Timer" right on the knife. In a way, I think it makes it more sheeple friendly. Not threating at all. Reminds people of old Grandpa.

Schrades web site ( www.schradeknives.com ) says the following about the Old Timer series:
Super sharp high carbon steel blades hold a great edge and are easy to resharpen
Indestructible Delrin handles - saw cut pattern for safe, comfortable use
Solid nickel silver bolsters
100% hand-inspected
Built Schrade Tough in the USA
Limited lifetime warranty
Click to expand...

The Middleman is 3-3/16" closed. Schrade claims it is "America's #1 Selling pocketknife!"

It has 3 blades; A 1-5/8" sheepsfoot, a 2-1/8" drop-point, and a 1-7/16" clip point.

It is a Nickel bolster knife, with delrin (fake bone) handles, and brass liners and pins.

Review
This is the dullest knife I have ever purchased. No wonder it came with a sharpening stone. I have not had the chance to take my Sharpmaker to it yet, but I don't think I will need to. I quickly sharpened it by: A)A few swipes on a cheap coarse diamond stone B)A few swipes on my Gatco-triceps, and C)Stropping on some cardboard. This took minimal effort, and resulted in shaving sharp edges.

The fit and finish is generally ok, with a few exceptions. The brass liners have a spot on them that looks like glue, but is actually a dark spot on the metal. The nickel bolsters out of the package look like they've already spent a year in someones pocket. The clip-point blade rubs the drop-point a bit, though there is no noticeable scratching. It opens fairly smoothly, but while open, the backsprings stick out a little bit.

If this knife was "100% hand inspected," they either have pretty low standards or inspectors that don't work all that hard.

I would have expected a little bit more for $20.

As for using the knife...

I like the carbon steel. It doesn't particularily hold an edge for a long time, but it is very easy to sharpen. I cut up an apple with it today, and it didn't really stain, though I washed it immediately. The knife resides in the same pocket as my keys, so the drop-point blade already has a few scratches.

I find having 3 different blades useful, for differing tasks.

The knife is sheeple friendly, very small, and comfortable to carry. It makes a decent supplemental knife, for my bigger one hand openers. Old fashioned slipjoints have.. a different feel. Almost like a time machine.

I probably should have saved my money, and instead purchased a Buck 303 Cadet. But, I have the Middleman, and it was instant gratification, so... :rolleyes:

Overall, its a decent working knife. I'll probably carry it until I wear it out/break it, and move on to bigger, better slipjoints.

-- Rob
 
Given the low level of work that was done to bring it to an acceptable edge, I would guess there was just a burr left on. NOt what I'd want in a new knife, but easy enough to correct.

The Schrade works fine for woodworking chores, and is the choice of many.

I honestly don't think you have given the knife enough of a chance. Slice a few more apples, it may grow on you.

If you decide you want to get rid of it for a reasonable price, drop me an email as I am looking for a new slip joint to keep in my car for "whittle while you wait for her" sessions.
 
Hehehehe... Funny review. Welcome to the world of slipjointts. With the exception of Buck, Victorinox, and some of A.G. Russell's, all of my slipjoints have come with very poor edges. I picked up a new Middleman a couple nights ago. It took hours to get perfect 30 degree edge bevels on all three blades with my SharpMaker. Lots of work, but worth it in the long run. Touch-ups afterward are very easy.

You'll find blade rubbing to a problem on almost every slipjoint. That's the price you pay for cramming 3 blades into a thin folder. The parallel aligned blades of the Buck Cadet do greatly minimize the rubbing, but some rubbing will show in time. It's mostly from pushing against the nail nick of one blade, causing the blade to flex and rub against another blade.

As far as that spot goes, its easily fixed. My Middleman had a spot like you described on the brass liner. The spot was located on the back of the knife where the springs are. 30 seconds with a piece of 2000 grit wet/dry paper had all of the liners looking shiny and new. A little Flitz would do the same thing, and also probably cure any bolster scratches. But don't worry about the bolsters too much. 5 minutes in your pants pocket will have them right back to that "pocket worn" look.
 
Originally posted by Buzzbait

As far as that spot goes, its easily fixed. My Middleman had a spot like you described on the brass liner. The spot was located on the back of the knife where the springs are. 30 seconds with a piece of 2000 grit wet/dry paper had all of the liners looking shiny and new. A little Flitz would do the same thing, and also probably cure any bolster scratches. But don't worry about the bolsters too much. 5 minutes in your pants pocket will have them right back to that "pocket worn" look.
Click to expand...

Buzzbait-
Good tip - thanks! The bolsters don't bother me much. I'll take that spot off the liners tommorrow. I figured the rubbing was pretty much normal - as I don't see any other way of fitting the blade in there. Slipjoints are.. interesting. I never thought I'd like a knife without a lock. Guess I was wrong.


Eric-
Don't get me wrong - I like the knife. Its a useful little tool. I'm not going to be getting rid of it anytime soon. :) It was for sure not a burr - my cheap little diamond hone is very coarse. It takes steel off super quick. It was definitely dull - just not in too horrible of shape.

I'm actually giving it a run through the sharpmaker right now. Takes a heck of an edge.

-- Rob
 
Once this year I got to handle two pearl handled Tony Bose slipjoints. That man knows perfection. They were so good my hands started to sweat just holding them. They were dealers choice and not for sale, not that I could afford em. Custom/hand made slipjoints are awesome and in many ways much more impressive than any single blade tactical folder or fixed blade. I think it just takes a lot more to match 3 blades, two scales, blosters, etc. and get it perfect.
 
I agree. You don't see a ton of custom makers doing slipjoints, and for a good reason. Slipjoints require a huge amount of precision to be done well. But when they're done right, they are a wonder to behold.
 
is just about the best twelve bucks and change I ever spent. It wasn't quite shaving sharp but plenty sharp to glide through the mail. The liners and bolsters line up nicely. There's a TINY gap on one liner near one bolster, but it's not blatantly obvious. I had (and lost) another just like it. Good fit and finish on that one too. But I also had an old Mercury Monarch (remember those?) that wouldn't say die. Go figure.

Frank
 
In my opinion, Old Timer slipjoints are about the best "cheap" knives you can buy. I don't know of anything comparable in their price range.

I have more expensive knives, but I carry an Old Timer Bearshead Trapper quite a bit.
 
Update:

Flitz is one of my top ten favorite chemical products.

Took that spot on the liners right out, and made the back of the knife nice and shiny. Now, its almost perfect.

Got a tiny bit of rust on one of the blades today. Forgot to oil it after my last cleaning, and its been crazy hot down here lately (in the 90s! :eek: ) Nuts. Flitz will take care of it though. :)

Just out of curiousity, what kind of carbon steel is this? 1095?

-- Rob
 
I've thought about getting a Middleman for a while now, afterall it's not that much cash. Still, I just don't feel the need as my 303 still commonly lives in my pocket.
Matt
 
I personally prefer the Buck 303 Cadet for urban carry. The blades have a thinner more efficient cutting edge, and the knife has a smaller profile in a pants pocket. The stainlessness and presharpened blades are also a big plus. The Middleman is more of a whittling and outdoor knife. The carbon steel is very easy to field sharpen, and the flat grind is excellent for working with wood. I'd be hard pressed to say which knife I like better, as they are best suited to entirely different purposes.
 
I used to have an Old Timer Middleman.
Actually, I kinda liked it.
It took on a beautiful almost black patina on all 3 blades pretty evenly. Super easy to get wicked sharp edges quickly. And that 1095 takes a very "toothy" edge that I love. As I remember, it didn't have any blade rub and was generally pretty good in the fit and finish dept. I've long since given it away to my nephew. Wonder if he still has it? Since the OT, I've been concentrating on Bulldogs, Mooremakers, Henckels, and Queen.
Lenny
 
Well, I went for it and bought a Schrade, a Middleman Jack. Like your Stockman, it was one of the dullest knives I've ever opened new. However, with 10 min on a coarse stone, it was scrape shaving and after a few swipes on the Sharpmaker, shaving. Mine also came with some spots on the brass, no biggie. The biggest concern for me is how hard it is to open the main blade. The nick is almost hidden by the pen blade and it is very slow and pretty stiff. I'm going to work with it a bit and see if it loosens up.
Thanks for your review,
Matt
 
Here's the best process I've found for fixing stiff blades. First, thoroughly wash the knife with dishwashing liquid, open and close the blades a few times, and hand dry. Then thoroughly douse the knife with WD-40, open and close the blades a few times, and hand dry. Then oil the pivots with a light oil such as Zebco Reel Oil. This does a great job of cleaning out any gunk in the pivots and springs.
 
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