Review: Spyderco / Byrd Crossbill

[JNieporte]

Well, I bought a new hawksbill to replace that damn Smith & Wesson Cuttin' Horse. Here's the Byrd Crossbill, model number BY07. It's a plain edge; no serrations, and can be had in stores for about $20. Here's the rest...

Handle Specifications and Impressions: The Crossbill's handle is solid stainless steel, and is 4.9" long. The knife, not including the pocket clip, is .25" wide. The skeletonized stainless pocket clip is made for tip up or tip down carry, but the handle is drilled for right hand only. It's held in place with three Torx (T-6 screws). There is a lanyard hole in the butt of the handle, and there are three diamond-shaped holes at the lower portion of the handle. The knife locks open via traditional lockback, positioned in the middle of the handle spine. There's a Boye dent so that you don't close the knife by gripping it tightly. Two finger grooves help in controlling the knife. There are no markings at all on the handle or the pocket clip. I will say that this handle is slippery when your hands are wet or sweaty. The all-stainless handle is great for weight, but bad for grip. If they'd make a G-10 version, it would be really good.

Blade Specifications and Impressions: The Crossbill's blade is, of course, a hawksbill shape. It curves inward, like a talon. It's 3.5" long with a 3.1" cutting edge, and is .145" wide. The blade is hollow ground and made of 8Cr13MoV. Rockwell hardness of mine tested 58 on the machine at work. The left side is marked "byrd" above "8Cr13MoV" on the tang. The right side has the circled TM near the thumb hole, and "CHINA" near the tang. The blade opens via comet-shaped thumb hole, which is 1" long by .5" wide at its widest. The blade also has an unsharpened swedge on the back, which measures 2.25" long. The point on the blade isn't flimsy, nor does it seem likely to break. The "sweet spot", if you will, is about an inch from the blade tip. This is where all of the material seems to end up before it meets its demise from the hooked tip. The entire blade came shaving sharp right out of the box.

My only complaint about this knife is the slippery handle. If a G-10 or FRN version were available, I could see a lot more being sold. Since this is being marketed as a knife for mariners or fisherman, you'd think more thought were put into a non-slippery handle. Otherwise, this is a great knife that will be in my pocket... albeit with a lanyard attached for grip when pulling it from my pocket.

 

[Flashpoint]

I've had one of these for over 2 years now. I'd have to agree this everything you said here.

I would like to add this...
I helped the lack of grip of the knife by cutting groves in the base of the blade where the thumb pressed during cutting. I also improved the performance of the blade by reprofiling the edge to about 15 degrees per side.

 

[sixfoot7]

The all-stainless handle is great for weight, but bad for grip. If they'd make a G-10 version, it would be really good.


My only complaint about this knife is the slippery handle. If a G-10 or FRN version were available, I could see a lot more being sold. Since this is being marketed as a knife for mariners or fisherman, you'd think more thought were put into a non-slippery handle. Otherwise, this is a great knife that will be in my pocket... albeit with a lanyard attached for grip when pulling it from my pocket.

Ummm...I guess you haven't looked at the '08 catalogue yet judging by your comment. Here's a link to a quick Google search for you:

http://www.thebladeshop.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5913

I love mine, and I'll be getting the G10 model soon, even though I personally have no problem maintaining a good grip on the SS handle. Cuts unbelievably well, and is one of the easiest knives I own to get scary stupid sharp, as is any knife I have in 8Cr13MoV.
+1 to what Flashpoint said on the angle as well - 30 degrees inclusive works very well.

 

[kodeslinger]

i wonder why (According to the catalogue) the SS model is on in PE or CE, but the G-10 model is PE or SE.

CE seems kind of silly for this model, (i have a plain edged SS).
Now, I'm going to get G-10 one in both PE and SE, can't wait drooool.

 

[Pahtoocara]

I experience significant lock reflex when I snap the Crossbill open hard. This causes failure to lock-up and the knife to partially close.

I've experienced this on more expensive knives as well, just not as severe as the Crossbill.

 

[Sal Glesser]

Hi JN ieporte,

Thanx for the review.

Hi Kodeslinger,

We also felt that a CE was not as desirable as a fully serrated version, so we're making changes as we develop the model. First G-10 variations, fully serrated versions, then if demand is there a lite weight.

Hey Pahtoocara,

"Snapping open" folders "hard" is not good for a folding knife and is not recommended. I imagine you are using centrifigual force. It will, done repeatedly, eventually affect the lock, tang and pins. It's especially harder where you have a strong self close, such as a lock-back and a fair amount of force is needed to overcome the spring tension.

sal

 

[kodeslinger]

Hi JN ieporte,

Thanx for the review.

Hi Kodeslinger,

We also felt that a CE was not as desirable as a fully serrated version, so we're making changes as we develop the model. First G-10 variations, fully serrated versions, then if demand is there a lite weight.

Hey Pahtoocara,

"Snapping open" folders "hard" is not good for a folding knife and is not recommended. I imagine you are using centrifigual force. It will, done repeatedly, eventually affect the lock, tang and pins. It's especially harder where you have a strong self close, such as a lock-back and a fair amount of force is needed to overcome the spring tension.

sal

Wow, thanks Sal! Now I can't wait for the FRN versions too, i'm gonna end up with 5+ crossbills now, not that it's a bad thing

 

[Pahtoocara]

Hey Pahtoocara,

"Snapping open" folders "hard" is not good for a folding knife and is not recommended. I imagine you are using centrifigual force. It will, done repeatedly, eventually affect the lock, tang and pins. It's especially harder where you have a strong self close, such as a lock-back and a fair amount of force is needed to overcome the spring tension.

sal

Thanks for your reply. I just like to put my knife through the paces. This was just one observation I had.

I know it's hard on the knife, but I just wanted to point out, I've carried a Spyderco of some type for the past 11 or so years. I did the handle drop probably thousands of times with my Endura or my Police. Never had a breakage. I think that's pretty good.

 

[Sal Glesser]

Thanks for your reply. I just like to put my knife through the paces. This was just one observation I had.

I know it's hard on the knife, but I just wanted to point out, I've carried a Spyderco of some type for the past 11 or so years. I did the handle drop probably thousands of times with my Endura or my Police. Never had a breakage. I think that's pretty good.

Hi Pahtoocara,

thanx. Have to look into that.

Did you grab the blade and drop the handle or grab the handle and snap ou the blade?

sal

 

[Pahtoocara]

In my experience with the Crossbill, it happens consistently when I grab the handle and flip out the blade in reverse grip. Not as much in forward grip.

Not to divert too much from the Crossbill, but in comparison I've experienced lock reflex with the Endura SS and the Police SS. Usually it’s by grabbing the blade and dropping the handle. Still, it seems to happen more for me with the Crossbill when I hold the handle and flip out the blade RG.

I fixed the lock reflex issue with my waved Endura 4 by tightening the pivot pin. I think it created more friction to overcome and slowed the blade down just enough to stop the lock reflex.

I don't want to give the impression I don't like Spyderco knives. When I teach, a Spyderco is one of the top knives on my list in the "buy" category. I carry a Spyderco just about every day and have used them as training drones before you guys even made trainers!

 

[kodeslinger]

I think you have to keep in mind that the Crossbill is a Byrd, so the price difference is pretty large.

I don't know how much you get your knives for, but here a Crossbill is 30$ v.s. the 100+$ it would cost for a police, or the 60-70$ it costs for an endura.

 

[illinifan]

I picked one up because I've always liked the blade shape, and it was only $20. I wasn't going to let my expectations get too high, but was pleasantly surprised. As far as I can tell, it's a very good quality knife for a good price.