REVIEW: TOPS Multi-fuel stove

Codger_64

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Having seen and read Mistwalker’s review of the TOPS multi-fuel stove last November, I’ve had an itch ever since to get one and compare it to my only other twig stove, the Emberlit. I finally acquired one earlier this week and after impatiently waiting several days for drier, less windy weather, took it out for a test run yesterday.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1224490-TOPS-Knives-Exposed

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As with most new gadgets, it takes some familiarity to use them efficiently, so my first impression was not a great one. Pretty much the same as when I first tried the aforementioned Emberlit. I actually took that stove with me to the gravel bar on the Snake River intent on doing a head to head comparison and while I did burn it as well, I did not bother to time boils etc.

First, packaging. The TOPS stove came in a very heavy duty (cordura?) nylon zip bag with a gratis TOPS emergency whistle bead-chained to the zipper. This was enclosed in a heavy duty heat-sealed clear bag along with a TOPS branded wax and cedar fuel puck. Opening the vinyl bag, I compared the puck with a Zippo branded one that I had bought from a local sporting goods store and they seemed to be produced by the same manufacturer. The Zippo branded one cost +/- $1.00 so while one can buy replacement pucks in most locals, using them as a sole fuel source would be prohibitively expensive. I did not ask TOPS what they sell replacement pucks for, if they do.

The zip bag, with a good heavy duty zipper, was very difficult to open. In fact I was afraid that I would destroy the zipper trying to open it. When I finally had it partway open I saw the reason. The bag was only very slightly larger than the stove in it’s vinyl sleeve and the sleeve was caught in the zipper pull.

After more wrangling, I finally got it open, removed the stove panels from the vinyl sleeve and read the brief instruction sheet. First impression on handling the stacked panels was that they were heavy (One pound). I am not a backpacker, so the weight was not a real concern, it was just a sharp contrast to the titanium Emberlit with which I had become familiar (5.5 ounces). Unfair comparison, I realize. But in stainless, the Emberlit is 11.3 ounces. Likely thinner panel sheets.

The TOPS stove goes together exactly like the Emberlit with one exception. The base plate of the TOPS has a front tab that goes in a corresponding slot in the front plate. Emberlit omits this front tab in favor of ease of assembly and disassembly with no apparent effect on the rigidity of the assembled stove. On the TOPS, I had to bow the front panel out while trying to slide the panel corner tabs and slots, not an easy task due to the very rigid stainless panels. And likewise bow the panel out to disengage the tab to disassemble. I may yet try removing the front tab, or at least trim it to see if it eases assembly without affecting the rigidity of the stove.

Once assembled, the stove is stout. I didn’t try it, but I got the impression that it would withstand my weight, certainly the heaviest full cook pot one might put on top. The stove forms a rectangular cube with vertical walls as opposed to the Emberlit’s tapered trapezoid shape. And designed for multiple fuels rather than as a straight twig stove, has three levels at which the base plate can be installed, with corresponding vent holes at each level. Bottom level, which I used first, was for wood fuel giving maximum clearance for a sizable load of fuel. The slightly larger fuel feed opening is in back on this one, allowing feeding of finger-sized twigs. Alternately pencil-sized twigs can be fed through the multitude of vent holes at every level. I tried this at first but it resulted in burning twig ends falling from the stove sides negating the contained fire feature I want in a twig stove, one of it’s salient features over an open wood fire.

This stove would benefit from the use of a windscreen, as the slightest breeze had flame coming out the multiple holes on the downwind side, along with sparks and ash. And of course attendant heat loss. When I moved the base panel up to the center level to burn the puck, it was much better at directing the heat upward.

I don’t carry and use gloves when outdoors as my hands are toughened from years of construction work and I find they get in the way more than help, excepting during cold weather when I wear them for warmth. So it was very notable when handling the stove after a burn to disassemble or move the base plate, that there was no way to avoid sooty hands. Of course the same is true of the Emberlit except that the base plate and panels can be handled from the bottom edges where no soot accumulates. Not a big deal but a notable difference, mostly caused by the need to flex the front plate to disengage the tab from the slot. Again, not a big deal for me as I usually “water-camp” so had the river, sand and gravel to do a quick hand wash. It might be a problem for those who usually dry camp.

I burned both stoves with found wood, driftwood twigs thumb-sized and smaller. I have no idea of the species, but all was softwood of some sort… likely aspen and willow, both of which are relatively low in BTU content compared to my hickory back in Tennessee. Still, I did not have to spend much time tending the fires once lit as the initial load was enough with both stoves to bring a quart of river water to a boil. I didn’t bother to time the boils, but the Emberlit was unsurprisingly a bit faster with the same fuel load.

As to the startup, I used birch bark for tender (sent to me by a member in the Northeastern U.S. where it is common) with hand broken pencil-sized twigs, a bit of found bark, and a few thumb-sized pieces of driftwood. Once established (a matter of a minute or two), I fed in a full load of larger twigs, all hand broken to size, no sawing or batoning needed, just as selected from the high-water driftwood piles on the bank. In fact, the only knife I took besides my EDC stockman was a Sharpfinger. I could have “wedge-split” larger wood with it has I needed to, but one advantage of river camping is the stockpiles of driftwood found almost everywhere.

I could have used most anything for tender lacking the birchbark. In fact I do carry a gallon zoplock bag of assorted tender including waxy firestarter blocks (Colemans, Coghlans) and some small pieces of BBQ grill hickory chunks. I realize this seems to negate the idea of using strictly found tender, but then I also lit the stoves with a Bic from the tender bag, not my bison rib firebow and a mullin shaft, or a firesteel and flint. Good skills and abilities to have, but I prefer to “smooth it” when I can.
As I mentioned, I did a burn in the TOPS using the supplied puck. The BTU content was not as high as I had imagined, but sufficient to achieve a boil considering the stove’s multi-fuel baseplate configuration. I didn’t try an additional burn using Esbit, Trioxane or Wetfire tabs. Or Sterno or alcohol. All of which this stove adapts for, unlike the Emberlit. I can certainly see where in many locations that adaptability would be useful for lack of found fuel or fire bans which preclude even contained wood fires.

Both stoves have a use not always recognized by new owners. Assembling the four wall panels but leaving out the base plate and leaving one corner open, they make good windscreens for the mini-gas stoves. I usually still carry my Coleman Micro gas canister stove on trips (remember I canoe, not hike) as a backup for rain days and to be able to cook more at once, like a multi-course breakfast or supper.

Maintenance? Pretty much the same on both stoves. Both will become sooty with use and need to be accompanied with a heavy duty plastic storage bag always, but both are easily cleaned at home using a scrub pad and either dish washing liquid or my favorite, “Fast Orange” mechanic’s hand cleaner found cheap in every auto parts store. Alternately neither one will suffer from streamside submersion and sand/gravel scrubbing if one wishes to clean them better during a trip. With only five small panel pieces, this only takes a couple of minutes.

My overall impression on this first trial? I like the TOPS multi-fuel stove. It will take some use and trial to appreciate it’s design flexability and work around what at first use appear to be drawbacks, but it shows a lot of promise. And I consider it to be a good value for the price, MSRP of around $50, pretty much the same as the Emberlit. And like it’s competitor, there is no need to constantly buy fuel canisters which are bulky and difficult to find and recycle.
 
I forgot to mention production quality, fit and finish. Great. Whether laser cut or waterjet, there were no sharp "gotchas" and everything fit as designed, aside from the aforementioned baseplate front tab fit.

Thanks Hawkeye5. I'll add to this thread as I use the stove more. And I hope other owners will add their impressions, problems and work-arounds as well.
 
Thanks Hawkeye5. I'll add to this thread as I use the stove more. And I hope other owners will add their impressions, problems and work-arounds as well.

Looking forward to it. Thanks for taking the time to do a review.
 
Time for an update already? OK. I had to run to town this afternoon and picked up a new bottle of Fast Orange hand cleaner. It took about ten minutes to clean both stoves of soot inside and out, and another five to de-soot my stainless billy can. Sorry, no after pictures. But all came clean of loose soot and grime. Ready for the next trip out to the river.

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Hey Codger are you going to do a Jiffy pop popcorn thing with this one ?
If you need some hickory twigs just send me your addy . I have a hickory tree
in the back yard .
 
Hey Codger are you going to do a Jiffy pop popcorn thing with this one ?
If you need some hickory twigs just send me your addy . I have a hickory tree
in the back yard .

I moved off and left my hundred year old oaks and hickories in Tennessee. One of the many things I miss about living there. I haven't experienced spring in the Tetons yet. Or learned the plants and trees. When I do, I'm sure I'll find some locally that will serve me well enough. There is bound to be a hardwood equivilant here somewhere. Heck, I bought a sack of hickory chunks for grilling at Wal-Mart and that will last a while I am sure. I do appreciate the generous offer though. But postage is killer on any small quantity of wood. And as you know, half the challenge and fun is in finding what works in the environment you are in. OK, cheating is acceptable too. Like my imported birch bark!
 
Thanks William. In retrospect, there were a couple of details I forgot to mention. First, the three stainless bars/skewers... actually tent stakes I think - they do work as advertised to support smaller camp pots and cups. Emberlit also had to come up with support bars for this reason. As you can see above, my USGI folding handle skillet and Aussie billy both are large enough to not need the additional support, so I did not use them. On the TOPS they perform an additional function, allowing one to move the hot stove. Hot? Well I moved it instead as I do with my Emberlit, by using sticks stuck through the ports.

Hot? The thick stainless panels remained hot after the burn a noticible bit longer than did the Emberlit's thinner titanium. Not a big deal in the scheme of things and would not make much difference when breaking morning camp. Just let it burn out, dump the (insignificant) remaining ash and set it aside to cool for a minute while you pack up the cookware.

I will be looking for a different container in lieu of the provided zipper case. It is just too small. It needed to be an inch taller to avoid zipper interference with the polybag containing the sooty stove. Now I may have mentioned that my Emberlit is the earliest version, so I know that that unit has gone thru an evolution in packaging. Mine came in a heavy duty ziplock bag and fits inside an open ended vinyl pouch. I understand that now that the marketing has expanded to stores, there is a specifically fitted zip lock pouch. Still, I found a "kitchen" bag to haul mine around. It is a nylon backed, mesh fronted zippered pouch slightly smaller than one you kid might use in a school binder notebook. It is just large enough to fit the two stoves, the bag of cleaning supplies, the small Nalgene of oil, a backpackers' combo salt/pepper shaker, some napkins and a few cooking and eating utensils.

I am going to take the chance and remove that front base-plate tab. A small but bothersome detail. After scrubbing the stove yesterday I reassembled it for drying. And fitting that tab was again a pain in the but as was disengaging it for disassembly. I'll try to contact the designer first to see if he has considered this mod and if so, why he rejected doing so.

As to why I didn't do timed trials of boils, there were just too many variables present to make it worthwhile. I do note that using the paraffin cedar puck took longer to boil, but that was not really unexpected. And the puck was still burning quite a while after the boil. So one might break it up and use it a quarter or half at a time for economy of materials. Even for campfires and other wood stoves, the pucks are worthwhile dropping a buck on as an alternate accelerant, as are the Coleman, Coghlans etc. firestarter blocks. Be sure to keep them in closed pouches as all contain paraffin or other wax that melts when it gets hot.

If the weather cooperates today I may give the stove another run.
 
This might be a silly question but, in regards to the pucks. Would a couple of the pre-soaked Match-Light type charcoal briquettes work? They don't weigh much and being able to adjust the base plate, whaddya think?
 
I've actually used hickory charcoal in my Emberlit and it does work. However it develops very high heat which is not always what you need. For boiling masses of water it works great. Or when heating an oven over it. To me the pucks are a good backup, but I wouldn't recommend them as a main fuel source. But then I wouldn't use an alcohol stove in it either. IMHO one of the ways the twig stoves shine is in their ability to use whatever small found fuel on site. Perhaps I somewhat negate this feature myself by packing a long a bag of natural tender and firestarter materials, and sometimes even the hickory chunks. I've said I am not averse to cheating. ANd have been skunked for fuel due to dampness before. Wood, any of it, will "burn" with up to 30% moisture content, but not very hot and with a lot of smoke and steam. Still, with the miserly loads of fuel these stoves both require, a single gallon bag of dried material packed along goes a long way.
 
Great review
Thanks

This stove would benefit from the use of a windscreen, as the slightest breeze had flame coming out the multiple holes on the downwind side, along with sparks and ash. And of course attendant heat loss.

What is the chimney effect (airflow) of this stove compared to the Emberlit?

I find both sizes of the Emberlit to be very good indeed at creating and maintaining its own airflow to help the stove burn well
As apposed to the little folding Nano stove that has little to no air flow to aid burning and even with good dry wood it is a hassle to get it really hot
 
You guessed it Neeman. The multitude of holes at every level, on all four sides, pretty much kill the chimney effect. Now this is something I learned back in the 1970's when I first started cooking on a charcoal grille in the back yard. I used a coffee can to start charcoal. I punched holes along the bottom but none up the sides. You can see this same "engineering" in modern manufactured charcoal chimneys. Punching holes all over has exactly the sort of effect you would expect... no directed airflow, attendant heat loss.

Now just how much this enthusiastic piercing will be detrimental to the stove's longer term function, I'll have to see. Other than using a foil windscreen, I don't see a way to change them to increase the vertical airflow. As noted above, the stove was not nearly so adept at fire containment as the Emberlit with it's mostly solid wall panels.
 
I played with the Ikea Cutlery holder
That is round and full of holes
And just holds the wood.
Does not chimney any air

It is seriously less directed and contained than a ground fire with some stones as the fire place
And these small ground fires can be the same size as a contained twig fire
Burn just as fast and hot
You get a liter of water in a kettle in a small amount of time

I like the small new TI Emberlit as a very directed efficient little stove
Easier and faster clean up, just ashes to dust under
 
Yes and this is a thing I am trying to quantify. Just how much efficiency is lost by ignoring the chimney effect. Wasted heat (BTUs), incomplete burns resulting in unburned residue and longer boil/cook times.

I do understand the need for the tri-level air hole piercings given the idea of multi-fuel use. But do those added piercings and the air they admit, and hot gas and flame that escape, affect the stove in a critical way? I've already mentioned how the additional holes allow hot debris to fall outside the stove. No way I would attempt to use it on a flammable surface or one where burn scars would leave long term traces, such as even a concrete surface or a flat rock in the backcountry. At least without using a firepan. But there we go making setup and use needlessly complex. I will say that the TOPS, like the Emberlit, uses a solid base plate set higher than the stoves' bottom surface. I see several stoves that have either pierced bottom plates or actual screen bottoms.

Have you tried multi-fuels in one of your Emberlits? I have and it just takes a riser/spacer of some sort set inside on the bottom plate to raise the flame closer to the pot. The same effect the TOPS achieves with it's three position base plate.
 
Codger,

I need to test this combination but I think I may have found a combination to get multi-fuel capability out of the Emberlit.

The pot is a GSI Pinnacle Soloist and the alcohol stove is teh Batchstovez 2.0 FE.

The GSI it just big enough to fit on the Emberlit with no cross bars.

If you set up the Emberlit without closing the last set of side panels and if you wedge the floor plate between the unclosed panels, you can make a 5 sided quasi cone shaped windscreen that just fits the the pot. It ends up looking somewhat like a Caldera Cone.

I need to do some testing with it. I think a standard windscreen is more efficient and I don't like the way the creasote makes a pot stick to a stove like a Batchstovez type stove. But the Batchstovez is so light and this gets rid of the need of a lifting a Trangia up.

I'll try to post picture in the next few days along with some results.

Note, the Batchstovez/GSI is my standard kit for 2 people. The Batchstovez 1.0/Stanley pot is my kit for 1.
 
The new TI small Emberlit comes with a shelf for Alcohol stoves

I didn't know that. As I said, I only have the earliest Emberlit from the first production and a lot of changes have been made and models added. With the original, the smaller home made alcohol stoves and other alternate fuels can be set on an upturned soup can inside to raise the burning platform closer to the pot. I gave up on playing with alcohol stoves though. Fun for the DIY project but very low heat yield for my purposes. But I do understand when and why some people would want to use one.
 
The new TI small Emberlit comes with a shelf for Alcohol stoves

Heya Neeman. Spring has hit New England. We're hearing the white throated sparrows in the Boston suburbs and thinking about their flight north to the Presidentials.

I gave serious thought to the getting the FireAnt but decided against it.

To get good performance from a Trangia type burner, I find one needs 2 things: the correct head space between the top of the burner and the bottom of the pot and wind protection for that head space and up the side of the pot to prevent the heat being swept away. I did a fair bit of experimenting with putting raised platforms in my Emberlit with the Trangia and the distances definitely help. Just putting the Trangia in the bottom of the Emberlit was horrible. Way too much head space, thus the need to add a lifter of some sort.

In use, I found the lifter solution to still be problematic since the Trangia needs to be snuffed out and lighting and snuffing are harder with it buried still deep in the Emberlit.

More importantly though, the Emberlit isn't made to protect the bottom of the pan from wind and that just killed boil times when used outside. So, I had to add an external windscreen sort of following the idea of the Clickstand. This was the result.

image by Pinnah, on Flickr

Combined with a raised platform, this gave excellent boil times but was just too complicated to carry and too clunky to use. I corresponded with Michal and recommended he consider adding a Clickstand type windscreen and he said that I was not the only one to suggest it and he was considering it.

Last year I got my first Batchstovez stove, which is like a simple cat can stove, only a lot stronger. This design ignores the headspace issue and puts the pot directly on the burner - trading some burn efficiency for less weight by eliminating the need for a pot stand.

Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

This is exactly the approach used by Caldera Cone too. Their burner is of similar design. The pot goes directly on the burner. I've been getting reasonably good burn times with the Batchstoves using traditional foil windscreens and for boiling water type cooking (the majority of what I do), they are very easy, reliable and stupid light. I use a light plywood base in the snow and played with this Batchstovez 2.0 this winter and it reliably boiled water in the 7 minute range with no fuss or monitoring. Light it and forget it till it boils. NB: this was with a traditional foil screen, not the Emberlit pictured.

The Caldera Cone system is an interesting system (Chris Townsend is big on them) in that it uses a conical (and hard to pack) windscreen that is custom made to fit an individual pot. Different pots demand different sized screens. The Emberlit can be deployed as a quasi-conical screen by using the base plate as a panel like this.

Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr


The Batchstovez 2.0 can drop in like this (almost exactly like a Caldera Cone)
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

And the GSI Pinnacle drops into the assembly like they were made for each other.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

I haven't had the time to test this in out of doors yet. Based on my experience, it look promising for moderate wind conditions. High wind demands a tighter screen.

The biggest downsides I see are: a) pots fouled with creosote will stick to the top of a stove like the Batchstovez and b) I don't go on a lot of trips that wood/alcohol multi fuel needed. Still, a nice option.
 
I gave up on playing with alcohol stoves though. Fun for the DIY project but very low heat yield for my purposes. But I do understand when and why some people would want to use one.

For my purposes, and my purposes only, I've concluded that multi fuel capability (wood + either alcohol/gas) doesn't make much sense for me.

For me, the big split isn't wood availability or not, it's the rhythm of the trip.

If I'm on a fast leg powered trip where I roll into camp late and leave early, I'm not using a wood stove. They're just too time consuming, too fiddly and too messy. I'm either too tired to deal with it or I'm wanting to be off exploring and not processing wood and tending the fire. The really nice thing about alcohol stoves in this setting is how little mind load they create. I light it, put the pot on and can turn my attention elsewhere. I don't have too tend to it like a wood stove nor worry about it going bang like a gas stove. I put around doing other chores till I see steam coming out of the pot. Or, I lay in my sleeping bag nice and warm while I keep a sleepy eye on the stove.

I take my Emberlit to the beach a lot. When I'm hanging out, feeding a fire is fun. I take it on ski tour day trips where I want a super light way to survive the night. Relying on wood means I don't have to carry liquid fuel. A cube or two of Esbit fuel is a cheat, but worth the few ounces in that scenario.
 
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