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Reviews of Boye knives
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t1mpani
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Well, I can tell you that I have a number of Boye's old Basic series knives both in dendritic 440C and cobalt, and they're awesome cutters. They don't get hair-splitting sharp (at least, I can't get them there) but their toothy edges will go through soft cutting mediums forever and ever. Be careful doing any prying or twisting with them--especially the cobalt--as they tend to be a tiny bit on the brittle side. Just stick to slicing with them, and they're awesome. Which model are you looking at?
Gary W. Graley
“Imagination is more important than knowledge"
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I've own the full Basic series as well as a few of his folders and some fixed blades, here is one that I recently picked up...
Cobalt fixed blade, that thread shows a pic of it, man what a cutter she is!
And a valuable point from the last post, don't pry with them, they're cutting instruments not pry bars, the cobalt is made mainly for fiberous material, cardboard/rope and the like, hard material like hard wood or bone when hit, can dent the edge, that knife in the post above, I have got a hair splitting edge on that, didn't think I'd be able to but sucker is sharp!
Good choice if you want a knife for slicing/cutting...and yes, show us which one you are looking at?
G2
Cobalt fixed blade, that thread shows a pic of it, man what a cutter she is!
And a valuable point from the last post, don't pry with them, they're cutting instruments not pry bars, the cobalt is made mainly for fiberous material, cardboard/rope and the like, hard material like hard wood or bone when hit, can dent the edge, that knife in the post above, I have got a hair splitting edge on that, didn't think I'd be able to but sucker is sharp!
Good choice if you want a knife for slicing/cutting...and yes, show us which one you are looking at?
G2
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2001
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I acquired a Boye Basic 1 around a month ago. The grip is not my favorite, but it works pretty well. The blade itself is very nice. The shape is versatile, a wide flat-ground drop-point with a sharp enough point for most uses. Boye's Dendritic Cobalt takes an aggressive edge and holds it for a long time. Overall this is a well designed and beautifully made knife from a master of the art.
--Bob Q
--Bob Q
Gary W. Graley
“Imagination is more important than knowledge"
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 2, 1999
- Messages
- 27,769
I'd suggest doing a japanese handle wrap on that Basic 1, I used to have some pics of the one I did for both the 1 and the 3 but have since taken them off my web site for some room...but basically, no pun intended, I cut a piece of sting ray skin to fit down into the groove of the handle, then wrapped the handle, I think I had to drill a hole at the end of the handle or used the existing hole that is there to wrap the end wrap around the butt of the knife, either way...then brush on some devcon epoxy to seal it up, not too heavy, but let it soak into the lacing, then...you'll have a very tactful handle!
G2
t1mpani
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What method do you use to sharpen them? I don't find that they take to ceramics too well. Steeling has given me pretty good results, but I've never gotten them to the so-small-you-can't-see-the-edge state. Once again, they're excellent cutters, as is. I'd just like to get them to push-cut hair a little better.
Cliff Stamp
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They are somewhat soft and thus will take a burr very readily. Ceramic rods are difficult to use on any steel like that because the very high pressure can roll the edge very easily. The high wear resistance of the Dendritics only compounds this issue.
To sharpen them optimally use light pressure and a very aggressive hone, clean and with a fresh surface. Diamonds are probably best, finish with 1200 and a few passes on some paste (or CrO), and shaving will not be a problem.
As for the knives, his geometry is pretty much optimal for flat grinds. The knives cut exceptionally well and also have excellent handling characteristics. As noted though they are not rough use knives and don't handle that type of work well. Boye has never promoted them as such however.
-Cliff
To sharpen them optimally use light pressure and a very aggressive hone, clean and with a fresh surface. Diamonds are probably best, finish with 1200 and a few passes on some paste (or CrO), and shaving will not be a problem.
As for the knives, his geometry is pretty much optimal for flat grinds. The knives cut exceptionally well and also have excellent handling characteristics. As noted though they are not rough use knives and don't handle that type of work well. Boye has never promoted them as such however.
-Cliff
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Does this look familiar?
I acquired this from someone else, but they told me that the work on the grip, as well as the sheath, were your work.
I have handled an unmodified Basic 1 and found the grip on it solid but not all that comfortable. The one I now own is both more secure and more comfortable, thanks to your modifications.
--Bob Q
I'm a huge David Boye fan - so anything I say is biassed
For those who didn't already know -
David Boye is the author of this legendary book that gave the start to many a famous knife maker of today:
Step-by-Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It!
by David Boye
Paperback: 274 pages ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.71 x 8.64 x 7.84
Publisher: Boye Knives; Revised edition (June 2000)
ISBN: 0615116590
One of my "cutting-est" knives is a BDS (Boye Dendritic Steel) Eagle Wing lightweight lockback - I can't explain why it cuts so well - perhaps it is because the hollow ground does not thicken toward the edge and the edge is very thin. I spoke to David in great detail about this - he actually made another one for my son - it was good - but it didn't quite reach that "magical" ability.
Boye Dendritic Folders (+interview)
His fixed blades are just as fabulous - his own favorite at one time was his 2" dropped edge - his BDS are cast, and he went through some design changes from hollow to flat grind:
David Boye 2" Dropped Edge
David also made some Basic series dropped edge knives as mentioned above - the Basic 1 was small and very handy -
The handle although not the most comfortable was not as uncomfortable as one might think just looking at it - it is in fact a good compromise for the low profile carry and a LOT more comfortbale than a lot of the steel handles of some neck-knives.
David said a few months ago that he was concentrating on making only his Cobalt (BDC) "Boat" knives - so any other design has to be a special order.
http://www.boyeknives.com/
For those who didn't already know -
David Boye is the author of this legendary book that gave the start to many a famous knife maker of today:
Step-by-Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It!
by David Boye
Paperback: 274 pages ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.71 x 8.64 x 7.84
Publisher: Boye Knives; Revised edition (June 2000)
ISBN: 0615116590
One of my "cutting-est" knives is a BDS (Boye Dendritic Steel) Eagle Wing lightweight lockback - I can't explain why it cuts so well - perhaps it is because the hollow ground does not thicken toward the edge and the edge is very thin. I spoke to David in great detail about this - he actually made another one for my son - it was good - but it didn't quite reach that "magical" ability.
Boye Dendritic Folders (+interview)
His fixed blades are just as fabulous - his own favorite at one time was his 2" dropped edge - his BDS are cast, and he went through some design changes from hollow to flat grind:
David Boye 2" Dropped Edge
David also made some Basic series dropped edge knives as mentioned above - the Basic 1 was small and very handy -
The handle although not the most comfortable was not as uncomfortable as one might think just looking at it - it is in fact a good compromise for the low profile carry and a LOT more comfortbale than a lot of the steel handles of some neck-knives.
David said a few months ago that he was concentrating on making only his Cobalt (BDC) "Boat" knives - so any other design has to be a special order.
http://www.boyeknives.com/
I am also a big fan. Due to David's slow down in production, his knives have been increasing in price, especially some of his older ones. Dendritic steel is one substance that still cuts even when it feels dull.
Stamp is incorrect. David in his literature with his knives indicates that the dedritic steel can be readily sharpened with a stone, preferably a medium grit. Diamond hones are not recommended since they remove too much stock and can easily ruin an edge. David believes a gritty edge is the best overall performer for most cutting applications and his steel in particular (i.e. his goal isn't a shaving polished edge). All three of my Boyes were received shaving sharp. On the Basic series, David builds in a guide for sharpening on a stone into the guard. This works great for me. Don't sharpen using a sharpmaker or some other fixed angle machine. David's edge is so thin and good, it's best to sharpen by hand to keep it intact.
Stamp is incorrect. David in his literature with his knives indicates that the dedritic steel can be readily sharpened with a stone, preferably a medium grit. Diamond hones are not recommended since they remove too much stock and can easily ruin an edge. David believes a gritty edge is the best overall performer for most cutting applications and his steel in particular (i.e. his goal isn't a shaving polished edge). All three of my Boyes were received shaving sharp. On the Basic series, David builds in a guide for sharpening on a stone into the guard. This works great for me. Don't sharpen using a sharpmaker or some other fixed angle machine. David's edge is so thin and good, it's best to sharpen by hand to keep it intact.
Cliff Stamp
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brownshoe :
Yes, and I said that ceramic rods were not a good choice, never said they could not be sharpened on stones, try to find some quotes where I said the knives could not be sharpened on regular stones. The reason I recommended Diamonds here is that they tend to allow honing with the least amount of pressure.
Of course they have many other advantages such as lack of scalloping out, only hones that are warrentied against wear (DMT), much more durable than ceramics in regards to impacts, very portable, hard enough to cut even the hardest of alloy carbides, etc. .
Depends far more on the coarsness than the type of abrasive, a 1200 grit Diamond hone removes metal far slower than a 200 grit waterstone.
-Cliff
Yes, and I said that ceramic rods were not a good choice, never said they could not be sharpened on stones, try to find some quotes where I said the knives could not be sharpened on regular stones. The reason I recommended Diamonds here is that they tend to allow honing with the least amount of pressure.
Of course they have many other advantages such as lack of scalloping out, only hones that are warrentied against wear (DMT), much more durable than ceramics in regards to impacts, very portable, hard enough to cut even the hardest of alloy carbides, etc. .
Depends far more on the coarsness than the type of abrasive, a 1200 grit Diamond hone removes metal far slower than a 200 grit waterstone.
-Cliff
t1mpani
Platinum Member
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Starting out shaving sharp does not hobble their performance. I know the toothy advantages of his dendritic process, but my one Boye knife that came razor sharp (a hollow ground Eagle folder) is able to keep cutting for longer than my Basics (which is definitely a feat) because it cuts initially due (like any other sharp knife) to the ease with which its extremely fine edge seperates material. Through use, as the edge gets rougher, that toothy quality pops up, and the knife keeps cutting and cutting. I've been able to return that one to its original keeness, because of its paper-thin hollow grind. If they start out super sharp, the time between necessary edge touchups is just that much longer.
This is in no way a rant, I love my Boyes and am very glad I got them when they were more readily available...I just wish I could strike upon the magic method for making them straight razor sharp.
The sharpening guides on his knives are a tremendously neat feature, and I stick to them every time!
Cliff Stamp
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t1mpani :
There are common myths about shaving sharpness. One is that it is a sign of weakness, the other is that it requires a very high polish. Joe Talmadge was one of the first to describe shaving sharp edges with very coarse hones (lower grit DMT's), I have seen them with 80 grit belts (so coarse you can see the micro teeth). The myth about weakness has been disproven many times by many people, it still gets repeated though.
-Cliff
There are common myths about shaving sharpness. One is that it is a sign of weakness, the other is that it requires a very high polish. Joe Talmadge was one of the first to describe shaving sharp edges with very coarse hones (lower grit DMT's), I have seen them with 80 grit belts (so coarse you can see the micro teeth). The myth about weakness has been disproven many times by many people, it still gets repeated though.
-Cliff
Thanks for that information.
However I have touched up both the BDS Eagle Wing and BDC "Prophet" lightweight lockbacks, as well as the 2" dropped edge, and Basic 1 - with some round ceramic V-hone rods without any problems - but bear in mind I'm only touching up with a few light strokes and not trying to re-grind the edge.
I have not found improvement with stropping the edges -
and now just finish lightly on the ceramic (fine(?) - white) V-hone.
Gary W. Graley
“Imagination is more important than knowledge"
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 2, 1999
- Messages
- 27,769
Originally posted by bquinlan
Does this look familiar?
I acquired this from someone else, but they told me that the work on the grip, as well as the sheath, were your work.
I have handled an unmodified Basic 1 and found the grip on it solid but not all that comfortable. The one I now own is both more secure and more comfortable, thanks to your modifications.
--Bob Q
AH, cool, I've long since lost the image I had of that knife, yep that's her for sure, I used Super glue to hold the Sting Ray skin in place, then the epoxy soak on the cord wrap, much more secure grip to that, but the extra thickness made the sheath that came with the knife to not allow it to fit, so a leather one was needed.
Good catch sir!
And the sharpening question, yep I do light strokes on the ceramic rod and it's amazingly sharp!
G2
- Joined
- May 9, 2000
- Messages
- 29,205
Looks like the knives at the Francine (Martin) Etchings site are made by J.P Holmes from David Boye designs and casts.
David Boye has his own site at:
http://www.boyeknives.com/
where he advertizes only his Cobalt Boat Knives.
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
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UnknownVT :
Yes, it is possible, like steeling almost when you go very light. It can be done but you have to achieve a delicate balance if you want to keep the edge crisp so it can for example shave on both sides. If you don't care about that then you can just use the ceramic rod as a fine steel but the edge will end up bent to one side as with any steeling.
I spent some time working on this with an opinel which is also difficult to hone on ceramic rods because very little force will bent the edge. The problem is when you are sharpening many knives and they all require different levels of force to be effective. Since you got by feel most times it is near impossible to do it well consistently.
I started using a scale then to estimate the honing pressure, which works well. But it is simpler to just use a more optimal hone. The flats on the Sharpmaker rods for example are much better. You get a wider contact area and thus less bending forces applied.
-Cliff
Yes, it is possible, like steeling almost when you go very light. It can be done but you have to achieve a delicate balance if you want to keep the edge crisp so it can for example shave on both sides. If you don't care about that then you can just use the ceramic rod as a fine steel but the edge will end up bent to one side as with any steeling.
I spent some time working on this with an opinel which is also difficult to hone on ceramic rods because very little force will bent the edge. The problem is when you are sharpening many knives and they all require different levels of force to be effective. Since you got by feel most times it is near impossible to do it well consistently.
I started using a scale then to estimate the honing pressure, which works well. But it is simpler to just use a more optimal hone. The flats on the Sharpmaker rods for example are much better. You get a wider contact area and thus less bending forces applied.
-Cliff