RF1 Framelock - Tie-Dye Finish

Hah! I don't know if Tie-Dye is my thing, but this looks fantastic. They really are shaped like a tank.

It reminds me of a weightlifter wearing a Hawaiian shirt.
 
Thanks guys!

Xander I got the message on the pics, I will try bumping up the exposure as these aren't even close! I was in a hurry because it was starting to rain... my background really is that color but not so washed out looking too. I might go for a darker or lighter background. I really had a hard time with pics on these... even busted out my photo booth outdoors to no avail. Much appreciated!

Tie Dye with Stonewashed blade... business in the front, party in the back! :D
 
What can we do to keep this finish from wearing off? Is that Cera stuff the way to go? Carnauba/beeswax by Flitz works, but you need to reapply. What lube on the pivot and lock joint?
DonD 729
 
Xander just mentioned a clear cerakote idea... that might be the trick, but Daniel will do a sample for us soon to see how it works out ;)
 
0037ksm said:
Oh, wow, I like that!!
Click to expand...
:D Thanks!


D729 said:
What can we do to keep this finish from wearing off? Is that Cera stuff the way to go? Carnauba/beeswax by Flitz works, but you need to reapply. What lube on the pivot and lock joint?
DonD 729
Click to expand...

Hi Don, great to see you here and welcome to Bladeforums!

I'm going to have to research the coatings some more, they would open up all sorts of options.

I have tried Renaissance Wax but any wax or oil will dull the finish a fair bit. The cool thing is after a quick cleaning they will look bright as can be again.

As far as wear goes I think they look cool when the anodizing wears down. The ano finish is harder than the Titanium itself and technically more durable... but if you scratch the Titanium you have scratched the finish.

Windex works very well for cleaning the finish and will make it look new. Another option is a mix of mineral oil and mineral spirits (wd40 works good also) then hand oils will not change the finish as it is already oily.


I'm using Nano-Oil on the pivot and the lock faces are Carbidized. I really like the Nano-Oil, it is great stuff! WD40 is good stuff for breaking in a knife but I like to clean it off and apply one drop of Nano-Oil to the pivot for actual use.


sloth357 said:
Xander just mentioned a clear cerakote idea... that might be the trick, but Daniel will do a sample for us soon to see how it works out ;)
Click to expand...

I'm looking into it right now! :cool: I have a feeling the temperature will have a lot to do with the outcome as high heat will change an ano. But the whole thing has me thinking... :D

I'm in a rush this morning... more thoughts later! :D
 
10 weight is what I think most people recommend for the Nano oil.

I'm curious, at what heat temp does Ti begin to change color?
 
0037ksm said:
10 weight is what I think most people recommend for the Nano oil.

I'm curious, at what heat temp does Ti begin to change color?
Click to expand...

I just found out I can air cure Cerakote! :D

I am not 100% sure on what temp causes color change but I'd guess it starts at around 300-400F like steel. Time is almost as important as temp because an oxide layer is being built.

When I heat color Titanium I use a hand-held propane or mapp gas torch. Red hot will go all the way up to light blue and sometimes beyond... I can also heat to nearly red a few times to bring out colors.
 
When you get to where you're ready to play with it, I'm in for an orange Cerakote. Please.
 
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