RFA article on how to inspect an axe

J

JLKII

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Jun 4, 2009
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IIRC (and my mind is slowly fading in my dotage) there used to be a heavily illustrated sticky on how to inspect an axe. It covered points like head alignment, handle grain, balance, etc.

Anyone remember it --- it was several years ago? And maybe point me to it?

Thanx.
 
No, it seems to me that I recall it being written by one of the member gurus here on the forum.
 
I think there was a well-written intro section as well but I can't find it. This looks like an alright introduction:
http://www.orionn49.com/choosing_an_axe.htm

You can watch the Kochanski and Ray Mears videos as well.

It really depends on what you want, your needs, where you live, etc. Give us an idea of what you're looking for and maybe we can help with selection.

Most of these intros never go into the most important aspect: blade geometry. That is an aspect that you cannot really understand as a beginner. Most likely 100 hours of axe use would be required before you can even begin to understand axe geometry. A lot of people do not have this experience and that is probably why the discussion is not included. But to get a basic idea you can look at the general pattern and edge geometry of well-maintained vintage axes in your area. You will get a good start from this, just keep in mind that these axes were likely used on larger trees and you may not be looking to cut similar trees, or you may not even have trees this large anymore in your area due to deforestation and regrowth.

Grain runout, balance, symmetry in the head, thickness, steel hardness, and handle geometry are all aspects to look out for and may suggest how well made the axe is.
 
I agree about the importance of blade geometry and steel, but I feel that the consumer is pretty much at the mercy of the maker over those.

What I was looking for was a guide for someone to use to select an axe from the stock in a store to allow them to choose the best one available (or reject them all, if none of them meet the requirements of the guide). The link to orionn49 is a good start, but still not what I remember.

I posted this because I've been sorely disappointed by the quality of about 50% of the GB axes I've seen in my local outdoor store. The head-handle alignment and quality of wood in their handles is sadly lacking.

Looks like I may have to do some research and write my own. If I can figure out how to post a thread with pictures, maybe I'll put it up for comments and as a possible sticky.
 
If you gave us an approximate location and size required then someone can make suggestions for your needs. I would say get The Ax Book and read the three chapters on The Right Ax, The Efficient Ax, and The Double-Bitted Ax. I think those are the right chapter titles.

If you are unhappy with the Gransfors then you are probably looking for the very best. This basically means that you will need to get a vintage axe in unused or nearly unused condition, grind it, and cut your own haft. This is not an easy task and I speak from experience as I started out with Gransfors axes. They come razor sharp and aligned properly so there is no work involved. All you have to do is learn to properly use and maintain the axe, which is not to say that is easy, but is only about half the knowledge required. Haft-making and filing require a lot of learning as well. There are benefits to starting this way as you only have to focus on axe use. But on the other hand you are delaying the learning involved in fixing up axes.

You could also purchase a House Handle and slim it down. This depends on your experience though, as a thicker handle can be better when you are learning and making mistakes.

You want to look for good blade geometry, it is almost always better in a double-bit than a single, but the double is more dangerous. I think Maine patterns and other similar patterns are best, but this could be different for your location due to the difference in trees. You want something in the range of 2.5 to 3.25 pounds if you're a beginner with a 26-28" handle (forest axes are fine as well). There's not much else to look for other than what was listed above. I left out axial rotation, but it is basically the balance point on the axe. For a single-bit it is approximately the distance between 1/4" within the eye to the edge. A shorter distance means a more accurate axe.

You also have to check how open the axe is, where the edge balances. It should rest between the middle point of the edge and halfway between the toe and heel. Check by laying the axe edge straight down on a flat surface with the end of the handle resting on the same plane. And check for grain runout too.

Preference goes to sapwood handles, straight handles or handles with only a minor curve, and the most uniform looking head. Check the sound of the steel and hardness if possible.

Apart from what's in the article and what I listed here I can't really think of anything else in selecting an axe.
 
JLKII said:
I agree about the importance of blade geometry and steel, but I feel that the consumer is pretty much at the mercy of the maker over those.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but luckily there's thousands of axes on the secondary market to choose from. So rather than trying to change the geometry of the head ya bought, just search until ya find one that suits your needs in the first place. With experience, you can judge hardness pretty close, based on how the steel works on a stone or file. Check that before ya put a whole bunch of work into it.

Often times you can fine tune the grinds as well, and convex & thin out the edge geometry if needed, etc.
 
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