ridge line ?

K

kibuddha4

Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Messages
201
I know that I'm going to be laughed at but here goes. I have just started to smith and need a lot of practice. I have bought The Complete Bladesmith by Jim Hrisoulas, and have been following that. But I cannot get a very good ridgeline on any of my blades. I can shape to a fair degree and my heat treatment has turned out better than I hoped, just can't get a ridgeline. Please help.
 
First, welcome to Bladeforums! Now, go to the top of your screen and you'll see 'makers'.Click on that and it will take you to the knifemaker's section of BFC. Click on "Shop Talk" and post your question there and you will find the answers you seek, Grasshopper. ;) :D
 
Hello buddha, and welcome shoptalk. You should explain yourself clearly to make us understand you. Instead of "ridgeline" you sould use the word in the book that you want to mention. There are immense info in the bladeforums but you have to dig it. Try to search forums also you may find valuable info about forging and forging problems. If you cant find it, try to ask your question clearly.

Happy forging,
Emre
 
By ridgeline I assume you mean the bevel line from forging it in? Partly that comes with practice, when you're holding the blade slanted at the edge of the anvil and hammering the bevels in, it's hard not to accidentally go above the line a little bit, it'll come in time. The other part though is cleanup. Unless you're using swedges or power hammer dies, even a great bevel line from forging still isn't really distinct. Cleanup with a file or belt grinder will make the line sharper if that's what you're trying to do.
 
galadduin said:
... You should explain yourself clearly to make us understand you. Instead of "ridgeline" you sould use the word in the book that you want to mention...
Click to expand...

He probably is. Ridgeline is a valid term. In Japanese style blade lingo, you'd say it's the shinogi, which is a ridge between the mune and the ha. To Americanize it you'd say it's a ridge between the back and the edge, or just shorten it to ridgeline.

kibuddha4,
Sounds like you are starting out by trying to forge some mighty complex blades. I don't know what advice to give you other than practice. When I started forging it was 3 1/2" to 4" drop point hunters. Personally, I found those to be quite challenging in the beginning. I'm no sword guy though. Maybe Kevin Cashen could throw a pointer or two your way if he sees this.

I see you posted this on Don Fogg's forum as well. You may get some pointers from Don or Randal Graham.
 
Bevel line I'm sorry. I just have always called it a ridge line. I've been making drop point hunters and 2 12in bowies. That's what I want to continue to make for now. Thanks for the advice guys. Be looking for my forge's name in the next few years (when I come up with a name).
 
The bevel line is formed when grinding/filing the bevel.It is not forged in to any precision,as that it will be defined in the finishing.Set it where you want it roughly in the forging (depending on your ability) and define it in the first grind/filing.After HT you can put it to the exact position you want.If you are hollow grinding,be aware that the bevel line is a function of the wheel diameter and the blade thickness.It will form in a certain spot depending on those two factors.With flat grinding you can put it where you wish.
 
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