Riding mower's acting up

Rick in KY

Rick in KY

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Aug 29, 2002
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While not knife related, here's some blade content anyway...

My riding mower (a roughly 10 yr old 6-speed manual Craftsman 46" mulcher with a Briggs & Stratton 19hp) slows to a stop when going up any kind of grade when in 3rd gear or higher.

This is not to say the engine bogs or the blades stop spinning, it purrs and whirs happily along, it simply loses propulsion.

The mower has had regular maintenance and not given me any troubles so far to date.

I fear transmission problems may cause either expensive repairs or a replacement.

A service call would necessitate having someone come to the house, along with a $75 charge before even looking at the thing.

Does anyone have any advice as to a possible remedy a relatively mechanically disinclined person (me) could use short of the above?

Thanks.
 
Cougar Allen said:
Has it ever been any different when in 3rd gear or higher? What's wrong with downshifting? :confused:
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Yes, it is significantly different.

Used to be I could buzz along in 4th or 5th gear and tackle any grade on my property with no problem other than the occasional wheel spin.

I have about 1.5 acres of land to mow, so having to make do with being in 1st or 2nd gear really slows things down. In fact, if in 4th or higher, the propulsion will stop if I turn the wheel too sharply, even on flat terrain.
 
Sounds like the clutch maybe slipping. If it is a hydrostatic tranny check the fluid levels and add hydraulic oil if it's low.
 
Sounds like a worn clutch, unless it's a hydrostatic then maybe it's just low on fluid or fluid is out of spec.

See if there is a stop nut that limits clutch engagement, or check clutch for wear.
 
I agree it sounds like the clutch. Those mowers are belt driven, so it may be possible that the belt is slipping, so take a look at it too. You'd probably smell it if it was the belt though.
 
Thanks for the advice.

It's a fairly old (10 years) Craftsman that I purchased from the original homeowner as part of the deal. It has been pretty reliable up to now, but I fear I may be looking at the tip o' the iceberg.

It isn't a hydrostatic tranny, so my guess is it's the clutch.

This puts it out of my league repair-wise (I know, lame), so I called the repair service, who informed me it would cost $100 just to come out :eek: .

If the repair turns out to be more than $300 inclusive of the $100, I may opt for replacement.

I'm thinking perhaps a John Deere X300 or X304 or perhaps a Club Cadet i1046.

Anyone have any experience with either?

Thanks again.
 
I don't know model numbers but the J Deere you buy at Wally World is not the same quality as one bought from a J Deere dealer !!!
 
J. Scott said:
Could you have a loose belt??

Scott
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Unfortunately, my mechanical abilities barely enable me to work the choke and turn the ignition key. :o

I wouldn't be surprised if the Mower Doctor (I call him this to assuage myself for spending a Benji just to have him make a house call) pops the thingamajiggy and discovers exactly what you asked.
 
Craftsmen mowers don't quite require rocket science :D Its all pretty simple inside.

If you look under the tractor, at the bottom of the engine there will be a pulley with 2 grooves in it. The upper groove has a belt that goes to the back of the mower and drives the wheels. The lower groove carries the belt for the mower blades.

If the upper belt looks burnt, or chewed up it needs replaced. Follow it back under the tractor and you should be able to find another pulley near the rear axle. The clutch is back there too. I'd have to see the tractor to give you specific details, but there are probably some adjustments that can be made just by tightening or loosening a nut or two. If you try to adjust anything, just do it slowly and remember which direction and how many turns you made so you can change it back if it doesn't help. Worst case scenario is you have to have the service guy come out anyhow.
 
I just replaced the drive belt on my Craftsman riding mower (3 years old).

Lift the seat and write down the model and serial number shown there. Get a replacement from Sears. You might want to call the local Sears before you go in order to make sure they have the one you need.

Take your new belt and put it in place right alongside the old belt. Once in place cut the old belt off with snips. Doing it this way you cannot route the new belt incorrectly. Don't ask me how I know this.

oregon
 
A drive belt on a Sears is not a big deal to change and that is more than likely to problem.Most riders don't have a clutch,all that happens when you push in the clutch pedal is that it puts enough slack in the belt to keep it from turning.There may be an adjustment,some of the older models had some adjustment at the idler,the pulley that moves when you push in the clutch.If the belt is cracked,it is time to replace it.
 
beau5278 said:
A drive belt on a Sears is not a big deal to change and that is more than likely to problem.Most riders don't have a clutch,all that happens when you push in the clutch pedal is that it puts enough slack in the belt to keep it from turning.There may be an adjustment,some of the older models had some adjustment at the idler,the pulley that moves when you push in the clutch.If the belt is cracked,it is time to replace it.
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Also, it could be the spring that holds the pulley against the belt when the clutch pedal is NOT depressed. Spring could be weak. How is the tension on the clutch pedal when you depress it?

However,I'm guessing that the belt has stretched out and needs to be replaced.

As stated above; lift the seat and get the model and serial #, go to sears.com and log onto the parts website, and input the numbers. It will give you a list, and you can scroll thru and order the belt. You can also call Sears parts as well. It is not too difficult to replace. I have done it several times on various branded tractors, and they are all about the same. You will need to remove the cutting deck for ease, but that is also no big deal. 4 pins, and slip the belt off the engine clutch pulley, and slide it out. (Lower the deck all the way before doing this)

If you need more advice, you can PM me or email me. As I said; I have worked on a whole lot of these over the years, and I currently maintain 5 of them, so I should be able to help.
 
In order of probability:

(1) belt
(2) clutch
(3) transmission

Maybe you'll luck out and it's just the belt. Time frame is about right. If you can see some part of the belt, spray water on it and try the mower. If the problem gets worse then you've probably isolated your problem.
 
Looks like I came to the right place! :thumbup:

I really appreciate the input. Dr. Mower isn't scheduled to rob me...errr...make his visit 'til Tuesday afternoon, so I think I'll give some of your suggestions a try.

Code, I have noticed that when I depress the clutch, which also serves as a brake, that the brake doesn't engage well at all. Also, it's supposed to be difficult to shift without using the clutch, but I find myself barely needing to depress it and can easily shift.

So, the clutch only manipulates a drive belt?

I think I'll put it up on some blocks this weekend and see if I can fix it. As Matt said, the worst thing that could happen as a result is having the Doc come out anyway. (Plus if I somehow manage to stumble onto the solution, my wife will be very impressed.)

I may need to take advantage of your PM offer though Code. :o

Thanks again.
 
Rick in KY said:
Looks like I came to the right place! :thumbup:

I really appreciate the input. Dr. Mower isn't scheduled to rob me...errr...make his visit 'til Tuesday afternoon, so I think I'll give some of your suggestions a try.

Code, I have noticed that when I depress the clutch, which also serves as a brake, that the brake doesn't engage well at all. Also, it's supposed to be difficult to shift without using the clutch, but I find myself barely needing to depress it and can easily shift.

So, the clutch only manipulates a drive belt?

I think I'll put it up on some blocks this weekend and see if I can fix it. As Matt said, the worst thing that could happen as a result is having the Doc come out anyway. (Plus if I somehow manage to stumble onto the solution, my wife will be very impressed.)

I may need to take advantage of your PM offer though Code. :o

Thanks again.
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Start with the the clutch/brake adjustment then. I've done this one before as well :D

Look underneath the left foot rest of the mower where the clutch pedal is. There should be a threaded rod with a spring slid over it and nut on on the end attached to the clutch pedal. If you tighten the nut it will increase the tension on the rod which links the clutch pedal to the brake. There may be 2 nuts on it. The second nut is used to hold the first one in place, so you may have to loosen the top one, make the adjustment, and then tighten the top nut down again. Give it a couple turns and then see if you have any brakes :cool:

This may help with the other problems too as it might put more tension on the drive belt.
 
actually often the clutch adjustment and belt change is easier with a second person. If the second person keeps a foot on the clutch pedal, the changing of the drive belt is about a 2 minute deal, as the tension is all relieved from the belt.

Also watching the movement of the mechanism as someone pumps the pedal can lead to eureka moments about what is going on and how your problem can be solved.

My guess is a stretched drive belt, the cost is probably going to be something like 15 or dollars. Also look in your phone belt for "belts and hoses" you might find a local shop who specialises in such things and has the same belt for a lot less than sears charges for their replacement.
 
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