Rigging and Jigging

Mark Williams

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I use a file guard to set the shoulders on a hidden or stick tang knife on occasion and dont particularly love the results. It seems no matter how careful I am, there is still a visible gap between the guard and the blade. Any tips on getting a nicer spacing between the two?

It almost seems as though the files (Nicholson) are just not sharp enough at the edges to get a perfect fit.
 
I just mill mine. I was tired of spending countless, frustrating hours getting those dang guards filed right so I just decided to mill it and I've been a happy guy ever since.
 
I do the same. The end mill I use for that has a 15 degree radius on the edge(very slight), so I don't end up with a 90 degree inside corner that could possibly support a stress riser.
You can get those end mills from MSC, and no doubt, many other places.
 
Hey Mike H...

Take a look at the radius on this blade. Do you think its overkill at 1/8 inch? I round the inside of the guard to match.

Jig_007.jpg
 
Originally posted by Mike Hull
I do the same. The end mill I use for that has a 15 degree radius on the edge(very slight), so I don't end up a 90 degree inside corner that could possibly support a stress riser.
You can get those end mills from MSC, and no doubt, many other places.

So what about the outside corner of the shoulder we create when we make the shoulder. Does this riser only occur on inside corners?
 
You could try grinding the sides of the file off to give a sharp corner that has teeth right up to the edge.

WS
 
I've done that to one of my files Wayne. It works so so. I guess if I had it ground down in a precise manner instead of my usual caveman technique it would work much mo better.
 
If Mark has that problem, now I don't feel so bad.

One trick I heard is to 'glue' pure carbide strips on the business edge on the jig. Then use edm stones for the final smoothing.

Sounds like a plan to me.

Steve
 
Originally posted by Mark Williams
So what about the outside corner of the shoulder we create when we make the shoulder. Does this riser only occur on inside corners?


I try not to end up with any real sharp 90 degree corners. It may only be ever so slightly rounded, but it is rounded.
I chamfer the handle pin/bolt holes in the tang too.
 
Originally posted by jhiggins
Hey Mike H...

Take a look at the radius on this blade. Do you think its overkill at 1/8 inch? I round the inside of the guard to match.


Jeff, if it works for you, that's all that counts.
Mine are much less than that, but it works for me.:)
 
Mark,
The best investment I ever made was a filing jig from Uncle Al at http://www.riversidemachine.net and I haven't looked back. There are others available out there if anyone else wants to chime in.

I was having the same problem as you before I got one of these. They are worth every penny.
Craig
 
Thanks Craig,

I cant remember whick supplier I got my jig from. They were at a show in Richmond. Jantz maybe.

What are the dimensions on the one from uncle Al. I'm at work but I'm thinking mine is roughly 3x1.5x3/4
 
Originally posted by insanity
You could try grinding the sides of the file off to give a sharp corner that has teeth right up to the edge.
Originally posted by Mark Williams
I've done that to one of my files Wayne. It works so so. I guess if I had it ground down in a precise manner instead of my usual caveman technique it would work much mo better.

This feature is called a "safe edge" or "safe side" or some other variation on that theme Looking thru my Nicholson File PDF, they make a large variety of files with this feature.
 
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