Right length for hunting knife?

K

knifedaddy84

Joined
Oct 8, 2002
Messages
339
Some folks prefer a smaller blade, even for big game, and think a full-size Ka-bar is too much, others, like myself, find that small blades usually equal smaller handles, which don't work with big hands especially if wearing gloves. What is your ideal hunting blade length?
 
I'll take something between 3 1/2 and 4 inches. I don't hunt elephants or anything, but I've never needed anything larger.
 
It depends on what you're hunting. For dressing deer, my Marbles Fieldcraft is about perfect, and I think it is in the four inch range. I've never measured it.

For skinning coons, I like a medium-sized Stockman or Trapper slipjoint. A narrow blade is more useful than a wide blade.
 
Im with coonskinner, my marbles fieldcraft at 3.75 inches is perfect. I think for most hunting needs a 3 to 4 inch blade is perfect, anything much bigger just gets in the way.
 
DITTO I done a lot of birds and 3 to 4 inches was the best size. I used a larger heavy blade only if I split the backs.
Also, what I think is more important is the shape of the blade. I like a drop point or one with a little more belly for skinin" But a flater blade if I am doing any kind of slicing or where I need more accuracy.
Usually, I end up working just the tip of the knife, just the front inch or so. A lot of times I "choke up" on a knife. So a big blade just doesnt make any sense.
Good Luck
Jack
 
I've used a lot of diffent knives to dress game over the last 20 years or so, and must agree with the above posts. 3.5-4" drop point about 1/8"-3/16" thick tool steel blade, with a large, full tang, slightly curved handle is right on target. Also avoid small bolsters and slick shiny handles. With congealing blood and body fluids on your hands, things can get slick. Personally I find a gut hook more of a nucence than an asset. The only time I use a large knife is for hacking through large longbones, and find a cleaver, hatchet, or cable saw much more usefull tools for this. Hope this helps! JDBraddy
 
I agree about slick handles, they are a big no no, I wanted to mention that I dont like guards on my knives. Guards get in the way.
I like to have at least 2 finger grooves in the handle. I think the grooves stop my hand from sliding up the handle.
good luck
Jack
 
Hi guys, I'm a knifemaker, collector, hunter etc. I think the views posted are pretty representative. I've made numerous hunters all under 4inches long in the blade. Even as small as 2inches in the blade for some caping knives. I can number on my fingers how many hunters I've made bigger than that. It seems the prevailing wisdom.

Probably more important than the size of the blade is the SHAPE of the blade for its intended function - skinner, drop point, straight back, trailing point and the shape of the belly. Then equally important is the HANDLE - its length, width and ergonomics.

A drop point hunter with a 3-1/2inch blade and a 4-1/2 to 5inch handle that is well shaped and secure in the hand gives good control and leverage.

Guards and finger grooves are a matter of personal preference. A number of hunters actually bought some of my small double-guarded 4inch fighters because it suited their personal technique. When skinning, caping, quartering, they would let the knife dangle from the fingers balanced across the web of the hand by the double guard.

I don't use guards on my full tang knives and prefer to shape in a dramatic first finger groove and a large hollow that sucks the rest of the fingers in. The butt end needs to be fairly wide so that the little finger can add grip and leverage. Interestingly, note that many of the Scandinavian hunting knives have no guards and generally have quite shapeless handles. They cater to a very specific technique of using the knife.

Hunting knives larger than 4inches tend to get in the way more than anything esle. However large knives can be useful where much more chopping action is required, especially where it is a "camp knife" situation. Sometimes, the hunting knife is the only one available at camp and may be required to limb a few trees, shave fuzz sticks, split firewood. I those cases, a medium-sized blade of 5-6inches with a dropped point, convexed edge and at least 3/16inch thickness might be quite useful for those more heavy duty tasks.

Choose the right knife for the job to suit your technique. Hint - look at Ed Fowler's high performance hunting knives.

Cheers.
 
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