Rivets/Pins

puukkoman

puukkoman

Joined
Sep 30, 2004
Messages
6,997
Hi guys. I think this is my first post in the Makers' forum.

I have a question about fastening scales to a full-tang handle. I'd like to put one of these together:

russcarbon.jpg


The bottom one, the one labeled "green river." I think it's also called Dadley... or Dudley... Made by Russell.

Regardless, I've always been fond of this pattern, and I'm going to handle one with something nice. But, I'd like to know what you'd recommend.
Should I use press-together rivets, or Loveless screws, or Corby screws, or plain old pins?
Should I use epoxy in addition? What kind?
And, if I want to put colored spacers under the scales, what do I need to take into consideration?

I've experimented a little with knifemaking in the past... I've ground a few blades from files & miscellaneous tool steel bar stock, and used a couple epoxies, but I've had difficulty getting the handles to stay on (I haven't yet tried to use rivets or pins).

Any tips?

Thanks...
Peace.
Alex.
 
A simple piened pin or press together would work with thouse style blades. My personal prefferance is a piened pin or loveless bolt.

I have tried a lot of differant epoxies, but have settled on accureglass bedding compound. Except for certain aplications such as a hidden tange I don't trust just epoxy to hold a knife together. Like you I've had a few failures. The trick is to make sure the surfaces are clean, it doesn't hurt to grind a little shallow in a full tange to make sure you don't squese all the epoxy out. I also like to pien the handle pins, take a wood spade bit and lightly open up the hole in the handle by hand, then use a 2once ball pien hammer to swell the pin heads. Done rite it looks good and is wedged firmly in the handle and the handle won't come apart even without epoxy. Do it to much and it can split the handle, not enough and you wind up with hallo's around the pins. Takes a little practice but is well worth the added security in my eyes. For piening just make the pins a little longer than needed and chamfer the edges to make piening a little easier.

Good luck
 
Almost forgot, on colored spacers, I use the solid plastic type on stabil handle materials such as mycarta and stabilized woods. On natural materials I like the vulcanised fiber spacer material, it helps with the natural expansion and contraction that all natural materials exhibit.

I basicly clean and flatten the handle material, clean the spacer, epoxy together and clamp on a flat surface with wax paper between them till dry. Then use like a solid handle slab.
 
Welcome Alex, You have come to a good place to learn,here at bladeforums.A way to avoid repeating the same questions as others is to first do a search for the topic.Also search "tutorials" ,there is a ton of starter info in there.
If you look in that Koval catalog you will see books on knife making.Get a few and read them (don't forget to check your local library,too).A few good starter books are:
Step By Step Knifemaking - David Boye
The $50 Knife Shop - Wayne Goddard
The Complete Bladesmith - Jim Hrisoulas

As to your question - Each maker has his/her own preference.I like Corby rivets for their security and ease (no clamps needed).On a Green River knife a good 30 min. epoxy and 1/8" brass pins are fine.You can pien the ends if you like,but you will most likely sand away the piened part in finishing a first knife.

Just as buying a scalpel won't make you a brain surgeon,buying a blade won't make you a knife maker.Knowledge is the key to learning the craft.

I highly recommend you attend the Moran hammer-in in Fredrick,MD ,Oct 7-9 .You will learn more in three days (or two if you can't get off work Friday) than a year on the computer.Contact the American Bladesmith Society,for information and registration.
Also,there are some good makers in your area,hook up with one or two,and you will be way ahead of the game.too.
If you want to contact me for more info,send me a private message.
Stacy Apelt
 
Thanks for the tips, guys!

I know, putting together a knife from a blade blank doesn't constitute "making" a knife, but this will be part of the learning experience. Until I get a nicer grinder, I won't really be able to move forward in my blade-making.

The Hammer-In sounds great. I definitely learn much better by seeing and doing than I do just by reading, and it should provide a good opportunity to get plugged in with some locals in the area... I hope to see you there!

Peace.
Alex.
 
See you there Alex.
Don't think that a purchased blade isn't knife making.It is a great way to get your feet wet.A good next project would be a folder kit.
Introduce yourself at the hammer in and I'll give you some great handle wood for that Green River knife,or your next one.I'll try to toss some blade blanks in the van,too.
Koval comes to the hammer in and you can buy direct from Troy while you are there.With Mick Koval's passing I haven't heard if there will be any change in their coming.
Stacy
 
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