I was wondering if I could use pins instead of rivets. I don't want to have to buy 2 or 3 different drill bits at $13 each for rivets when i can get roundstock for a lot less. Also, does the size of the rivet match the size of the roundstock I need? Please include any tips. Thanks! Just to clear it up, I don't want to spend the extra $ on the rivet drill bits yet and am looking for a cheaper alternative.
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Rivets vs pins
- Thread starter Taz
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
Taz most of us use pins instead of rivets. Once the handle is epoxied and pinned in place it is as strong or stronger than a rivetted handle.
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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
- Joined
- Jun 12, 1999
- Messages
- 1,110
pins are easier and stronger. just oversize the hole by 1/32" i switched from rivets to pins a while ago. you don't need to worry about counter boring and squashing the rivets while the epoxy is drying, and getting epoxy on your hammers and vises.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 1999
- Messages
- 170
Magnum and Taz,
I wouldn't oversize the hole by 1/32". That will be too sloppy a fit. For 1/8" pins use a #30 drill bit. For 3/32"pins use a #40 or even a #41 if you can find it. For 1/4" thong holes and liners us a letter F drill bit.
For a little bit of rivet effect and a nice old timey look, you can leave your pins above the surface of the handle material about 1/16" and use a head spinner on them. This will flare the head of the pin out a little and give a nice domed head. Looks real good in stag and some ivory handles.
Hope this helps,
Gary B www.toptexknives.com/bradburn.htm
I wouldn't oversize the hole by 1/32". That will be too sloppy a fit. For 1/8" pins use a #30 drill bit. For 3/32"pins use a #40 or even a #41 if you can find it. For 1/4" thong holes and liners us a letter F drill bit.
For a little bit of rivet effect and a nice old timey look, you can leave your pins above the surface of the handle material about 1/16" and use a head spinner on them. This will flare the head of the pin out a little and give a nice domed head. Looks real good in stag and some ivory handles.
Hope this helps,
Gary B www.toptexknives.com/bradburn.htm
- Joined
- Jun 12, 1999
- Messages
- 1,110
the 1/32' is for epoxy. plus i always peen my pins, to fill gaps.
thanks for the tips guys! I'm sticking with pins..much easier. I think I will drill a little bigger than the pin, and pein and epoxy. last time I drilled a little too small and ended up sanding 6 1/8" pins down...that took a long time...
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2000
- Messages
- 1,370
Do you guys rough up or groove your pin stock for more surface area for the epoxy to "grab" onto, or does the smooth pin stock seem to work fine?-Guy T.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 1999
- Messages
- 2,112
I always rough up the pins before epoxy is applied. Have you ever considered the blind bolts instead of rivets or pins? They are the strongest method although the other two seem to work OK for most folks.
As far as oversize bits, this is what I do. I can get all of the drill bits needed from Wholesale Tool.
pin -------drill bit size
3/32 ----- 2.40 mm
(.0937) -- (.0945)
1/8 ------ 3.20 mm
(.1250) -- (.1260)
5/32 ----- # 22
(.1562) -- (.1570)
1/4 ------ 6.40 mm
(.2500) -- (.2520)
C Wilkins
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 02-15-2000).]
As far as oversize bits, this is what I do. I can get all of the drill bits needed from Wholesale Tool.
pin -------drill bit size
3/32 ----- 2.40 mm
(.0937) -- (.0945)
1/8 ------ 3.20 mm
(.1250) -- (.1260)
5/32 ----- # 22
(.1562) -- (.1570)
1/4 ------ 6.40 mm
(.2500) -- (.2520)
C Wilkins
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 02-15-2000).]