RMD not cooperating.

Feezle

Feezle

Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
519
Ok, I'm getting a little fed up trying to convex my RMD. I've tried the mouse pad method. I've tried replacing the mouse pad with a piece of leather. I've even tried this route (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...he-BK2-(and-others)?highlight=convex+tropical) which looks so easy a caveman could do it...and I just can't get this damn thing sharp. After that last method, I can't slice paper at all.

What gives? Is the RMD just a bear to convex or am I just worthless? I'm seriously considering giving up on it and getting something else...but chances are, I'm the problem so that most likely won't do any good.
 
When all else fails, get a work sharp. It'll do the initial convex, then all you'll have to worry about is the upkeep.
 
Sr101 can take time to sharpen. I wouldn't get rid of the knife just because your having trouble getting it sharp. Just keep at it man, use sharpie so you can keep track of where your making contact. Also, do not use too much pressure or you'll just round the edge off. If all else fails you can send it to me and ill do it for you, just cover shipping.
 
I would recommend a 1x30 belt grinder. They can be had cheap at HF and would make quick work of it.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys! I think I'm using too much pressure. Gonna give it another shot and see what happens.
 
Three words. Grit, Angle, Pressure

Grit: Start with 400 grit wet or dry paper tacked down to the leather. Then after you have filled up a couple stripe of that grit, move to the 600 grit, and so on.

Angle: Make sure to keep your blade angle to the strop as shallow as possible.

Pressure: This is a biggie! If you apply too much pressure you will deform your strop backing too much, thus rounding your edge. A light consistent pressure is enough. LET THE ABRASIVE DO THE WORK.

Other than that it's just a matter of patience and practice.
 
broe said:
Yikes!! Belt Grinder for a newb?
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JohnnyO said:
That was my reaction as well. Do I hear tooth pic?
Click to expand...

Absolutely not! Just go to your local thrift store, and pick up a handful of old kitchen knives to practice on first! They're usually only a dollar or two each, and will give you plenty of practice before you go stepping up to your beloved Swamp Rat SR-101. It really isn't all that difficult, but some patience while learning is key.

eloreno said:
Absolutely! Hows he going to learn? :D
One of the best purchases I ever made.
Click to expand...

Agreed 1,000,000,000%!!! I posted in a few threads about a year ago when I was learning. If you do a search on my username with keywords "convex" and "Jerry Hossom" you should be able to find what you need in regards to materials and tips/pointers. You can also google "sharpening my way" and "Jerry Hossom" together to get a TON of info about learning to convex with a belt sander.

Pretty soon, you'll be able to get your RMD looking like this:





:D :D :D
(Yes, it is VERY sharp...)
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Absolutely not! Just go to your local thrift store, and pick up a handful of old kitchen knives to practice on first! They're usually only a dollar or two each, and will give you plenty of practice before you go stepping up to your beloved Swamp Rat SR-101. It really isn't all that difficult, but some patience while learning is key.



Agreed 1,000,000,000%!!! I posted in a few threads about a year ago when I was learning. If you do a search on my username with keywords "convex" and "Jerry Hossom" you should be able to find what you need in regards to materials and tips/pointers. You can also google "sharpening my way" and "Jerry Hossom" together to get a TON of info about learning to convex with a belt sander.

Pretty soon, you'll be able to get your RMD looking like this:





:D :D :D
(Yes, it is VERY sharp...)
Click to expand...

Sooooooo sexy!
 
you could try a harder backing too. That will make your angle more important but your pressure much less important. I think it is a lot easier to objectively observe angle than pressure.
 
for an immediate fix, id look really hard at a 20 degree angle and get a good feel for it, put your paper on something hard, and start working the shoulder down. Then start as close to the primary grind angle as your aesthetic sensibility will allow and rotate it up to that 20 degrees as you drag across the sandpaper.
 
eloreno said:
I would recommend a 1x30 belt grinder. They can be had cheap at HF and would make quick work of it.
Click to expand...

NO DOUBT ABOUT IT! I've been sharpening and making knives my entire life (G-pa was a maker)...but didn't start convexing until a couple years ago...it took me awhile to learn this technique to my satisfaction (which is perfection). My technique isn't quite perfect yet...but it's getting pretty close. I wasted so much time with the doing it by hand method...it never quite came out the way I wanted it to.
Doing it by hand is great...if you happen to be in prison and have time to kill...also IMO it never looks or comes out as nice/sharp period. Does anyone think that Busse is using the sandpaper and mouse pad method? Nope...power tools.
Like others have said...get yourself a 1 inch belt sander...the 30" ones are cheap ($50 and up)....you never need any grit rougher than 220... Depending on the knife and my intended purpose, sometimes I stop at 320, sometimes at 1000. Then get yourself a leather belt for your sander and finish off with that (compound loaded of course). YOU WILL Get your knives STUPID SHARP. It takes some practice, so like others have said, practice on cheap knives first (I have many knives that I keep around just for experimentation purposes. Personally I usually like to start with a low angle to work the shoulder off all the way down to the edge. (many many passes) ..then I like to finish the edge by doing a few passes at a sharper angle (I do this with both grit and strop belts). Make sure your passes are angle consistent (the belt will flex and will naturally convex) and consistent in speed (always maintain motion, never hold the blade to the sander still)....this is to prevent taking to much steel away and to prevent over heating... make sure the knife never gets to hot to touch. Also very little pressure is needed or wanted. Once you learn belt sander you'll wonder why anybody would ever do it by hand. If you insist on using the hand method...what worked good for me is to finish it off with a micro edge bevel using a ceramic rod.

Good luck!
 
Raging Rhino said:
NO DOUBT ABOUT IT! I've been sharpening and making knives my entire life (G-pa was a maker)...but didn't start convexing until a couple years ago...it took me awhile to learn this technique to my satisfaction (which is perfection). My technique isn't quite perfect yet...but it's getting pretty close. I wasted so much time with the doing it by hand method...it never quite came out the way I wanted it to.
Doing it by hand is great...if you happen to be in prison and have time to kill...also IMO it never looks or comes out as nice/sharp period. Does anyone think that Busse is using the sandpaper and mouse pad method? Nope...power tools.
Like others have said...get yourself a 1 inch belt sander...the 30" ones are cheap ($50 and up)....you never need any grit rougher than 220... Depending on the knife and my intended purpose, sometimes I stop at 320, sometimes at 1000. Then get yourself a leather belt for your sander and finish off with that (compound loaded of course). YOU WILL Get your knives STUPID SHARP. It takes some practice, so like others have said, practice on cheap knives first (I have many knives that I keep around just for experimentation purposes. Personally I usually like to start with a low angle to work the shoulder off all the way down to the edge. (many many passes) ..then I like to finish the edge by doing a few passes at a sharper angle (I do this with both grit and strop belts). Make sure your passes are angle consistent (the belt will flex and will naturally convex) and consistent in speed (always maintain motion, never hold the blade to the sander still)....this is to prevent taking to much steel away and to prevent over heating... make sure the knife never gets to hot to touch. Also very little pressure is needed or wanted. Once you learn belt sander you'll wonder why anybody would ever do it by hand. If you insist on using the hand method...what worked good for me is to finish it off with a micro edge bevel using a ceramic rod.

Good luck!
Click to expand...




I agree with everything rhino has said. Been doing this a long time too. Everything he has said makes complete sense
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Absolutely not! Just go to your local thrift store, and pick up a handful of old kitchen knives to practice on first! They're usually only a dollar or two each, and will give you plenty of practice before you go stepping up to your beloved Swamp Rat SR-101. It really isn't all that difficult, but some patience while learning is key.



Agreed 1,000,000,000%!!! I posted in a few threads about a year ago when I was learning. If you do a search on my username with keywords "convex" and "Jerry Hossom" you should be able to find what you need in regards to materials and tips/pointers. You can also google "sharpening my way" and "Jerry Hossom" together to get a TON of info about learning to convex with a belt sander.

Pretty soon, you'll be able to get your RMD looking like this:





:D :D :D
(Yes, it is VERY sharp...)
Click to expand...

These pictures were so cruel for us "sharpening challenged" folk. Dang that edge looks sweeeet!

Unklfranco
 
I haven't had a chance to get back to this knife yet. Been a rough week. Unfortunately I have a bonfire to attend today so I need my RMD sharp. I'm going to throw a quick micro-bevel (I believe the correct terminology) on the edge with my diamond hone so I can use it. Hopefully that won't completely undo any progress I've made. If so, then I'll just have to start over. Wish my TG wasn't away right now.
 
Practice is the key in my opinion.

Look at the edge when you are shaping it... is it digging into the pad? is the very edge touching? Digging will round the edge and it will never be very sharp that way.

I'd start with the edge raised off the pad a hair and work until it is just flush.


Good luck with everything! The micro bevel should be fine, just take the shoulder off from behind it when you start convexing.
 
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