ROCKSTEAD CHI problem. Please help.

RayseM

RayseM

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Feb 18, 2010
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Here is my dilemma copied and posted from the Rockstead Knowledge thread.

Any advice will be most greatly appreciated.

1ST the set up -

YIKES - I just got bit by my CHI - Tip up carry - I reached into my pocket and that very sharp tanto tip was open and looking to give me grief. No gratitude. Fortunately I was moving slowly and did not do more than a light bleed.

AND - for what it's worth the knife is nearly brand new. Certainly has not been used hard or abused in any way. The pivot has just loosened.

I discovered that I can now just give the CHI a sharp snap of the wrist and the blade deploys. Need to tighten the pivot for sure. HELP PLEASE - how does one do that? Looks like the scales need to be removed. Is that the case?

Any advice - most welcome. I'm afeared to carry it without getting this fixed.

SUMMARY of ADVICE so far: Remove the scales and tighten the pivot. 2 ways were suggested. 1) There is a circular "nut" that sits over the pivot that needs to be tightened.
2) Just remove the century inlay and tighten the screw. EITHER WAY I would need to remove the scales - to access the circular nut or to access the back side of the stingray inlay to push it out rather than trying to pry from the front.

My Husky Torx driver set was not up to the task of removing the # 6 Torx screws. One came out but was well seated in locket. The remains two will not budge AND I can see and feel that the torx slots are a bit misshapen. I bought a brand new set of WIHA torx drivers but that doesn't get enough purchase either.

The full story if you need more info - http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/rockstead-knowledge-thread.1335803/page-66

Today - here is where I'm at:

OK - with brand new WIHA torx in hand I still can't take the scale of my CHI. This really sucks.
I might have damaged the screw slots with my first attempt. In any case I got 1 out of 3 removed and that 1st one was very tight and obviously set in locktite of some sort.

What do I do? Soak the knife in boiling water hoping to ease up the locktite? The screws might still come out if I am very careful and they are free of the locktite. I know how to work with tools. This is well within my capabilities though a bit on the micro side of what I typically work with.

My other choice seems to be to leave the scales on and go at this by removing the stingray and tightening the pivot screw. That doesn't solve the long term problem of my unremovable scales though - AND if I drill out the existing screws I then need replacements. Actually, I will need replacements in any case. I won't reuse these.

I'm guessing that if I send it back to Rockstead right now before I get in any deeper they will still give me grief for obviously having tried to remove the screws. No warranty work to tighten the blade?

I am really miffed about losing the use of the CHI. More aggravated that I am having problems with this expensive and mostly brand new knife.

Any advice on how to proceed? Thank you very much.

Ray
 
Basically, you just want to remove a torx screw with a stripped or rounded head seat.

Hopefully, a real mechanic will offer some tips. But here's the best I can do. Just be very careful and start with a good plan:

You could try Josh at Razor Edge Knives
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/mods-regrinds-cerakote-and-sharpening.1492108/

or Bpiatt
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/custom-machine-shop-services.1354072/

or a scale maker like Steve Sketchen
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sketchen-scales-customs.1192333/

or Shepard
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/shepardcc-custom-knife-scales-backspacers-books-open.1085174/


Other options:

You might also go to a local machinist to see what they can do.

You may want to heat the screw up first with the tip of a solder iron to loosen the grip of the Locktite

You could try a left-handed drill. Set your drill motor to slow RMPs on reverse, using constant torque.

Here’s a video on one kind that I found, with someone else's explanation:
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Precision-Screw-Extractor-Set/IF145-118-1
Go slow and use pressure.
If the screw extractor can't get a grip, you may need to drill a small hole into the screw head. You will need a drill bit that is designed for drilling metal; a wood-drilling bit won't survive. Be careful! If you drill too far, you will destroy the head entirely or make it fragile enough that it will snap off, making it even harder to get the screw out.

Also try using a small piece of steelwool or a piece of the green abrasive on kitchen cleaning sponges- press a small piece into screw head, insert screwdriver and turn.

The abrasive material will bite into the screwhead, and give better grip for the screwdriver.

As a last resort if the screw is too badly damaged for the screw extractor to work properly you may have to drill out the hole using a bit size the same as the shaft of the screw. Remember to work incredibly slowly, use a tool to hold the piece in place and you can never be too paranoid when working with such small screws to make sure you're not going too far.


drill-out micro power extractor

Here’s an extractor tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0

You could try to epoxy a torx driver in the slot, let it harden and remove slowly.
 
The only advice I can pose is to get yourself a tube of valve lapping compound from an auto parts store or maybe the auto section of a hardware store. Put a dab in the head of the screw and then try removing them with a good bit of downward force to keep the bit from slipping out. The compound is very gritty and "fills" the slight gaps around the bit you are using to give your bit a better fit in the screw. Hope this helps. It works on torx and Allen screws that are halfway gone but still have the right shape. I would definitely use a soldering iron tip for a minute to get it warm first.
 
Thank you both. Sound advice. I have the tools, the patience and dexterity so I will give some thought to these options and try a method or two to extract the tight screws. The tips aren't too far gone so there's hope.

I like the extractor tool if things come to that. Any excuse to buy a new tool is a god excuse :thumbsup:

Ray
 
One other idea: place the torx driver into the torx screw, and tap the end with a hammer fairly hard. This will break the seal of the loctite from the screw threads. Then, applying constant downward pressure to keep the driver well seated, back the screw out a little bit if you can, observing it closely so that if you start to cam out the head, you don't blindly continue.

Good luck!
 
To be honest, I could get those fasteners out, but I'd probably give warranty service a try first.

They probably won't be super happy about your self service attempt, but I'd be surprised if they refuse to service it due to the little bit of work/damage you've done.
 
UNCLE :( - I have tried all the techniques described by you all above - except using the valve lapping compound. Using good WIHA torx drivers there is no turning those screws. I also removed the stingray pad covering the pivot screw and that screw is unmovable too. Anymore effort will just ruin the screw heads in the scale even further. My Chi is no longer safe to carry in my pocket.

Thanks for your advice. I am wicked frustrated that nothing worked. The drill out extractor has some appeal but as the smallest it comes is for # 5/6/M3 screws I think it will be too big. These are # 3 or # 4 screws at best.

Oh well. Off to Japan I guess :mad:.

Ray
 
Sounds like a detent issue, not a pivot one. If the blade will fall open then it does not have the proper detent lock up when closed...
 
It was fine for 3 months and nothing "appears" to be obstructing. I have blown out any dust/debris - basically could only be pocket lint. I'll try a better clean out before I pack it up. I hope it is as simple as that.

Ray
 
RayseM said:
It was fine for 3 months and nothing "appears" to be obstructing. I have blown out any dust/debris - basically could only be pocket lint. I'll try a better clean out before I pack it up. I hope it is as simple as that.

Ray
Click to expand...
Although doubtful the detent ball could have somehow gotten pressed into the hole on the lock bar which would cause the problem you're describing... But if it did you would have some play when in the closed position probably.
 
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