Rodent 9's Hardening

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Feb 16, 2010
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I know some of the rest of you were wondering this and I haven't seen an answer out there yet, so I thought I would relay that I got confirmation that the Rodent 9 is through hardened.

I'm pretty new to the big choppers, so I haven't really given much thought to whether I would want a through or differentially hardened blade when buying a big 6+ inch knife. The Rodent 9 looks like a great chopper and general big knife, but what does through hardening say about its toughness? Any advantages of through hardening over differential?

Thanks!
 
If it came from any of the Busse companies, you don't need to worry about anything.....it has been thoroughly tested and surpasses most all anticipated uses. Though the DH does offer more in the way of lateral strength, the exact amount is not openly known. I am sure their are NO concerns about an issues with TH knives though.

Beat it like it owes you money!!!!!!
 
I'm sure that any Rodent 9 can take extreme abuse. I beat on my howling rat with reckless abandon in batoning logs, and it is no worse for the wear. But some swamp rat/busse knives are differentially hardened so I don't think you can dismiss it as nothing,. If DH didn't have any benefit, they wouldn't do it ... at least in theory.
 
I agree. I can't imagine Jerry doing anything to his knives that doesn't produce a measurable effect. When it comes to heat treating steel, the man is genius.

For those who may be interested, here's an interesting article by Terry Primos that discusses the benefits of differential heat treating:

What Is It?
It goes by many names, there is differential tempering, differential hardening, selective tempering, selective hardening, zone treating, soft-back draw, and the list goes on and on it seems. By whatever name is used, it means that the blade has been heat treated to have a hard cutting edge and a softer "springy" spine. There are a few different ways to achieve this, so the term I use depends on the process I used. More on this later.

What Are the Benefits?
A blade in which the spine has been hardened to a lesser degree than the cutting edge will exhibit a great deal of strength and flexibility and still have exceptional cutting ability. This is assuming of course that the heat treating was properly done.

This is quite beneficial to larger blades which must be able to handle a lot of abuse. Prime candidates would be a bowie or camp knife which might be used for chopping up firewood, clearing a path through the woods, etc. This is also good for thinner blades that require quite a bit of flexibility. Some knifemakers do differential heat treating on all their blades.

One of the performance tests for a prospective Journeyman or Master Smith in the American Bladesmith Society is the bend test. The smiths blade is clamped vertically in a vice and must be bent 90 degrees without breaking. At first one might think that all you'd have to do is temper the entire blade to a spring temper. Well, the problem with this is that the cutting edge would be too soft to pass the cutting tests. Prior to the bend test the blade must cleanly sever a one inch free hanging rope approximately six inches from the loose end, in one movement. Next it must be able to chop a 2x4 in half at least twice, with no edge damage, and still be able to shave hair from the applicant's arm. This is achieved by differential heat treatment.

How Is This Done?
There is more than one way to get the hard cutting edge and tough, springy back. To cover the whole spectrum I say that my blades have been differentially heat treated. To be more specific as to the method used, I use one of the terms mentioned above. Some of the methods, as well as the terms I use to describe the methods are listed below.

Differential Hardening
This is the term I use when the transition was performed at the hardening phase of heat treating. This would cover the edge quench, clay coating, and torch methods. It is not my intention to give a full course in heat treating, but here is a brief explanation of the three methods.

Edge Quench - With this method, the whole blade is brought to critical temperature, then the cutting edge only is placed horizontally in the quench medium, and carefully rocked upward toward the tip of the blade. The steel exposed above the quench line will cool more slowly and therefore reach a lesser degree of hardness.

Clay Coating - First the back of the blade is coated with clay or refractory cement. The blade is then brought up to critical temperature and placed in the quench medium. The portion of the blade which is coated will cool more slowly and reach a lesser degree of hardness.

Torch - The cutting edge is quickly brought to critical temperature with a torch and then placed in the quench medium. This method is usually only used on smaller blades because it is difficult to evenly achieve the proper temperature on the full length of a large blade.

Differential Tempering
This is the term I use when the transition was performed at the tempering phase of heat treating. That is, the blade is fully hardened, then tempered, and finally the spine is drawn back with a torch. This is often done with the cutting edge placed in a tray of cold water. The depth of the water is usually set from 1/3 to 1/2 the overall width of the blade. The spine is carefully drawn back with a "painting" action of the torch on the spine.

Closing Statements As previously stated, this was not intended to be a lesson in heat treating. I have just scratched the surface to give you an idea of what differential heat treating is, where its application is beneficial, and some of the methods used.

Source: http://www.knifeart.com/difbyterprim.html
 
I also have this question in the thread for the scrapyard 711, but might as well ask it here as well. What sort of price point are you talking about if you want a super tough chopper in the 7'' to 9'' blade range (either busse-kin or some other brand that is on par ... yeah I know there aren't many) AND you want it differentially heat treated? Looks like I could probably pick up a DH busse for over $400, but I'm not willing to go that high.
 
I belive the original camp tramp 7" was differentially treated, satin battle rats 9", and m9 le 9", maybe the cg? Not sure. I dont think busse or scrapyard have differentially heat treated any.
 
S7 (SR77) and INFI don't need to be differentially hardened. 52100 (SR101) may or may not need to be differentially hardened either. It's kind of hard to say when the Boss makes both through-hardened and DHT versions of the same knife. :confused:

The bottom line is what I said before. Anything Jerry makes is covered by the best warranty in the knife industry. With what amounts to a "you break it, we'll replace it" warranty standing behind it, would I buy a Camp Tramp for $250 before I'd buy a 711 for half that price? Hell no! On the other hand, would I be willing to trade my Camp Tramp for two 711's? Hell no!
 
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